Oh my God, where should I start?
It was one of the worst couture debuts in recent years. Somehow it's surprising that it's so bad because it's the same team that worked with Silvia and Karl. What's more, Kim seemed to understand the couture techniques. He's been quite successful with merging them with the strictness of menswear under Dior Men. However, this collection is a total disaster.
For the first look, Kim went for a black suit that looked like a pyjama-fied, tortured version of Clare Waight Keller's very first couture look for Givenchy. And actually, it is one of the best looks from this dreadful collection. The dresses are either dated and tortured or become heavily embroidered fillers. The tailoring is a disaster on its own. That's a strange thing for a designer who comes from a menswear background. Both the choice of fabrics and the techniques seem not to work properly. It is the most visible on the Adwoa's look. It looks comical, like a first-year fashion design student's project based on Raf for Dior. I know that the look was inspired by a sketch from the archives, but it wasn't interpreted properly. The result was extremely heavy-handed.
I won't comment on the menswear looks (or the looks worn by male models) because they're not worth getting any attention. They are so random, even in the context of Virginia Woolf's works.
The last look, what a way to close such a trainwreck. It's just a pile of fabric printed with some ugly pattern. There's literally nothing to talk about because it's not even a look.
To sum it up, I really hope he'll be out in three years. He can destroy Dior and bring it to the ground, now it's nothing more than a cash cow, but Fendi deserves someone capable of doing better things. I'm pretty sure Kim won't get better with time. We've seen enough at Dior where he's been stuck with the same idea of couture menswear.