Fendi Haute Couture S/S 2022 Paris

[susseinmcswanny]

Yes but that’s not an issue for me… And i don’t come from a privileged background at all. I don’t know why people think that there should be a social justice kind of thing everywhere…
What are we judging? Talent? He has some…

He is privileged? Ok then…
There are plenty of designers who started with nothing, who had talent and who made it.

There are a lot of people in the fashion industry who didn’t have anything to offer than a name or a connection.

YSL, Karl, Givenchy, Dior, Alaia among others grew up in privileged environment. That doesn’t discredit their talent…

The good thing about fashion is that there’s a plate for everyone…

I only respect two things: talent and hardwork.

I totally am in total agreement with everything you said here. This whole industry is the epitome of privilege. I just don't see the talent in him that you do lol. Hopefully I can eat my words with the more he presents!

 

[TianCouture]

Not Fendi. Next...

 

[TianCouture]

also the purple and red dresses are so poorly made I can't even comment. Siriano has entered the chat.

 

[Lola701]

I totally am in total agreement with everything you said here. This whole industry is the epitome of privilege. I just don't see the talent in him that you do lol. Hopefully I can eat my words with the more he presents!

I think with him people saw the KY references and his work is very clownish sometimes. But for the little he has done at Rochas, there’s a potential.
One thing: he knows the cut and he knows about construction. And that for me alone is the key. If you have the techniques, you can perfect it…Now there’s an aesthetic to build.

If he is surrounded by the right people, it can go well.

You see Jacquemus. He came from humble beginnings. In terms of techniques, we are at the level 0. I like him and I the idea of his brand.
His strength is in marketing and story telling tho.

Anf maybe I like De Villemorin because it’s refreshing to see someone from his generation have different references than the usual Margiela, Lang, Tom Ford at Gucci and the whole thing.

 

[THD96]

Kim Jones’s accomplishment was his commercial success. It’s like Hedi.
Hedi is a genius stylist but let’s be honest, he did womenswear because of the commercial success of his menswear. At least he has a vision…
But the results are far removed from what people said when he left Dior or even before he started YSL.

I think it's feel more natural and believable for Hedi to do womenswear because a lot women in his circle and in public have already worn his Dior. And Hedi made more impact in menswear than Kim will ever be. I highly doubt Kim LV and Dior was that sought after by women that the suits decided to give him Fendi. His
appointment more about the LVMH strategy than his talent.

I wonder what the suits feel now that his Fendi failed to pickup any momentum from the industry. His first Couture show was a flop in both designs and buzz, comparing to Demna debut at Balenciaga.

I also think that beside having no vision in womenswear, he just doesn't understand the Fendi women. It's too safe and too serious for Karl loyal clients.

 

[gossiping]

his couture just doesn't really do anything... it's not great . i absolutely love his RTW for fendi though.

 

[jeanclaude]

Sloppy execution, cheap-looking prints...this looks more like an outdated "alta moda" italian brand (like Gattinoni or Renato Balestra) than Fendi...

 

[Frederic01]

This is inspired by Dune and Star Wars? I'm sorry to say but Dune has much better costumes than whatever has been presented in this collection. Sarah Ferguson's character has exquisite pieces (designed by Jacqueline West and Bob Morgan) as does Charlotte Rampling's character. Much more "couture" in feeling too.

Jones, who said he had been re-reading Dune and a book on Star Wars by George Lucas, approached the theme with a Hollywood zest that recalled a number of sci-fi films centered around the age-old conversation between the ancient and the futuristic.

VOGUE RUNWAY

Seriously though, this collection is one of Jones' worst to date. It looks like some kind of monster hybrid between Matthew Williams for Givenchy and Elie Saab. In fact, this is exactly how I imagine Williams' first HC show for Givenchy to look, down to the casting, and even the mise-en-scène.

What is most disappointing about all of is though is that the Fendi DNA, or what we have come to understand and recognise as Fendi, has been completely obscured in the hands of KJ. Karl had a way of building on that Fendi aesthetic in a way that made sense, and created a signature look for the brand that separated it from others, even if it was very subtle. Kim Jones on the other hand has experimented with every possible aesthetic under the sun throughout his tenure, but has failed thus far to achieve consistency and/or to establish a discernible aesthetic.

I thought the first collection, even though the clothes not spectacular, with the union of British and Italian culture, was a step in the right direction of what Fendi by Kim Jones could be. They should have stayed on that pathway and worked more extensively on developing new codes with a clear aesthetic. Instead he went into doing subsequent collections which make no sense whatsoever when placed next to each other. It's too erratic!

And I'm sorry but I will never take his work seriously after he did things like FENDACE and FendixSkims. Those collaborations are the 21st century equivalent of those cheap licences that some brands did in the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Once you go that low and cheapen the image of the brand, it's very hard to build it back up, let alone pretend to masquerade as a legitimate Haute Couture house.

 

[Br3ncon1]

What happened to the fun fur? I feel like these are dresses for a trip to the mausoleum, and I agree this does remind of Tusci's Givenchy with the religious prints.

 

[Frederic01]

Tragic. And where’s the fur?

Used very sparingly on these pieces, I assume so as not to anger the anti-fur activists and media class. If they're going to be this surreptitious about using fur, they should just stop all together. Either embrace your fur heritage or don't, but stop trying to take the middle road to avoid offending people who realistically aren't even part of your paying audience.


VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[dior_couture1245]

Used very sparingly on these pieces, I assume so as not to anger the anti-fur activists and media class. If they're going to be this surreptitious about using fur, they should just stop all together. Either embrace your fur heritage or don't, but stop trying to take the middle road to avoid offending people who realistically aren't even part of your paying audience.

Exactly. The whole heritage and the whole point of this house is fur and leather goods. To eliminate that, to pretend it doesn't exist, to brush it under the rug...it's such an insult. And to appease who? A bunch of low IQ mouth breathers on Twitter? I'm so sick of everything.

I mean...this is the house that made ACTUAL GOLD FUR. Kim Jones can go f*ck himself.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Looks 8, 10, and 13 are def fur. The rest is the stupid appliqué stuff. I don't understand why he continues to utilize fur in that way. It's like he thinks "okay if I use fur for the little intricate details that means it's innovative and expensive and good and everyone will ooo and ahh". Why are you putting a fur appliqué smack dab in the middle of the waist of an evening gown. He shredded the file in his brain about the purpose and functionality of the material. At least try to be respectful. I hope they used scraps because what a waste.

Anyways, maybe there's a lack of fur because it's for spring? Don't know. But I'm so sick of him. Just shut the f*ck up and go back to umbro or something

 

[JohannesL]

I think what makes Fendi special among others during the HC week is its haute furrue offering and Karl did a great job by setting the template for the house. Just wish they would follow this path.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I took my time to see the collection because I knew I would be disappointed so was not in rush to see it.

First thing first, it looks dated. Very 2010s.

It was bland, very serious, very moody, very uneventful. Kim Jones is definitely not a funny man and does not know how to have fun with fashion.

The make-up... Very lazy. Very " we want to be edgy but we don't know if we can". These things on the model's faces look like bright pimples.

I only like the set because it reminded me of the old sets from Versace .

 

[eugenius]

That's fine if he wants to get in touch w/ the rappers + artists for his mens line @ Dior, but he should probably get in touch w/ his feminine side more at Fendi.

Him + Raf. OK to great menswear, but the womenswear is stiff AF.

 

[avonlea002]

Used very sparingly on these pieces, I assume so as not to anger the anti-fur activists and media class. If they're going to be this surreptitious about using fur, they should just stop all together. Either embrace your fur heritage or don't, but stop trying to take the middle road to avoid offending people who realistically aren't even part of your paying audience.

It's actually molded leather and silk.

 

[Frederic01]

Turns out the set design is also not original. Bureau Betak basically stole the concept and design from the Italian artist Edoardo Tresoldi and did not credit him at all. Tresoldi has been working with this form for many many years, using wire mesh to make monumental sculptures in reference to historic architecture. What a disaster this show is!


BUREAU BETAK


EDOARDO TRESOLDI

 

[Lola701]

I hope they will give the house to Marco De Vicenzo after this « mess as a tenure » of KJ.

 

[YohjiAddict]

A horrific showing but the kind that takes itself so seriously that it’s more depressing than laughable. The colors are so dour, the draping just miserable and the prints a total insult to what must be a very expensive silk fabric (nothing looks expensive though, which is baffling).

When I think of all the couturiers that struggled all through their lives so they could get access to an atelier and the resources needed to practice their craft at the highest level…to then see Kim struggling to put together a decent dress under the best of conditions, it makes me want to cry.

 

[90sFan]

oh god no. OH GOD NOOOOOOOOOOOO