For Male Models, It is Game Over

[Phuel]

^^^ Guys can’t afford to think in the same ambitious way as the girls can. It’s not a worthy investment for them since in the end, it's just more a matter of luck that so-and-so became successful. There are so many guys I've seen that's way better looking with a better body than David Dandy...

Oftentimes, we are so preoccupied with HF and its cast, we completely forget that it’s the consumer brands, like VS, Maybelline, Revlon etc that pays for the cost of living for models. And these brands do not need any of the guys. Factor in that HF— even high street like TOPMAN and All Saints etc, are going with the very young, indie-looking types that 10 years ago, would never be considered model-material. So add in a new breed of weird-looking twink male models, new faces all the time rather than investing in strong, familiar faces-- and the competition for the few paying jobs are ferocious. Supply exceeds demand...

Have you ever been to a casting call for some mid-range department-store??? It’s like a cattle-call… It’s a dog’s life for the guys. I see so many gorgeous guys— amazing faces and unbelievable bodies (not to mention easygoing, down-to-earth, hardworking and open-minded), coming from competent agencies, with passionate agents and bookers, and for whatever reason (and no luck?), these guys just slip through the cracks. So many of them. I’m sure you know what I mean...

 

[Bertrando3]

^^^ Guys can’t afford to think in the same ambitious way as the girls can. It’s not a worthy investment for them since in the end, it's just more a matter of luck that so-and-so became successful. There are so many guys I've seen that's way better looking with a better body than David Dandy...

Oftentimes, we are so preoccupied with HF and its cast, we completely forget that it’s the consumer brands, like VS, Maybelline, Revlon etc that pays for the cost of living for models. And these brands do not need any of the guys. Factor in that HF— even high street like TOPMAN and All Saints etc, are going with the very young, indie-looking types that 10 years ago, would never be considered model-material. So add in a new breed of weird-looking twink male models, new faces all the time rather than investing in strong, familiar faces-- and the competition for the few paying jobs are ferocious. Supply exceeds demand...

Have you ever been to a casting call for some mid-range department-store??? It’s like a cattle-call… It’s a dog’s life for the guys. I see so many gorgeous guys— amazing faces and unbelievable bodies (not to mention easygoing, down-to-earth, hardworking and open-minded), coming from competent agencies, with passionate agents and bookers, and for whatever reason (and no luck?), these guys just slip through the cracks. So many of them. I’m sure you know what I mean...

I absolutely know what you mean, gosh it´s sad it´s true that nowadays: instaboys + weird looking twinks + constant new faces = it makes it almost impossible for the top working handsome male models of today to make a descent living out of Fashion.

I also agree with you that commercial modeling is what makes the money worth it coz Fashion pays next to nothing for the guys, I know I have been through it ahaha.

I still wish designers would support much better the male models of our generation. Take any of the 31 models featured on the DETAILS cover they did and I´m sure so many fans and people would like to feel invested in them as much as they do with female models but the industry needs to support the guys first.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ And look what happened to Details Magazine LOL

Have you seen the last issue of L’UOMO? It’s so abandoned it’s depressing: More generic-looking kidz and chavy-looking twinks for their very last fashion stories...

There are some indie publications— ADON, Victor, Yearbook… that make an effort to promote that brand of male beauty you and I grew up with. Predictably and unfortunately, their quality has slipped so fast and the shoots simply aren’t strong enough anymore (likely due to less submissions since people are likely more attracted to posting their work on SM for instant visibility) to get the attention of potential blue chip investors, or any investors to be frank. There simply is little to no driven momentum of infrastructure to promote the guys in any capacity that’s near what is set for the girls. The only major international publication presence to promote male models is Fashion For Men— and they’re so niche no one outside of HF fans knows about them.

HF isn’t a charity/humanitarian cause LOL It’s just not worth it for the designers to be supporting men in the same way that they support (and profit) from the women.

 

[arvage]

^^^ Guys can’t afford to think in the same ambitious way as the girls can. It’s not a worthy investment for them since in the end, it's just more a matter of luck that so-and-so became successful. There are so many guys I've seen that's way better looking with a better body than David Dandy...

Oftentimes, we are so preoccupied with HF and its cast, we completely forget that it’s the consumer brands, like VS, Maybelline, Revlon etc that pays for the cost of living for models. And these brands do not need any of the guys. Factor in that HF— even high street like TOPMAN and All Saints etc, are going with the very young, indie-looking types that 10 years ago, would never be considered model-material. So add in a new breed of weird-looking twink male models, new faces all the time rather than investing in strong, familiar faces-- and the competition for the few paying jobs are ferocious. Supply exceeds demand...

Have you ever been to a casting call for some mid-range department-store??? It’s like a cattle-call… It’s a dog’s life for the guys. I see so many gorgeous guys— amazing faces and unbelievable bodies (not to mention easygoing, down-to-earth, hardworking and open-minded), coming from competent agencies, with passionate agents and bookers, and for whatever reason (and no luck?), these guys just slip through the cracks. So many of them. I’m sure you know what I mean...

It's easy to assume that TOPMAN pays a lot but in actuality not at all. I know a few models who campaigned this year and they didn't get "a lot" because TOPMAN hires a slew of models at a time. Also, TOPMAN isn't doing LFW anymore except small presentations. They are however still active at Bread and Butter and doing their runway shows there.

IMO, instaboys don't exist as per what I've posted earlier - at least during fashion week/fashion magazines they're non existent. As for weird looking twinks, I guess that's what's in fashion for male models right now. Personally I think the muscular body market is really saturated and almost every guy wants to achieve such a body so the fashion world is saying "no that's mainstream I want to be away from that" and so casting these weird looking boys became the norm (which I kinda like as it pushed the boundaries of male beauty). Even VERSACE is switching to skinnier boys for runway which to me is weird for the brand but I'm not Donatella and my faves are walking the shows so I'm not complaining.

As far as the big shows go (I'm taking Bottega Veneta Men&Women SS18) , we still have Arthur Gosse, Neels Visser then you go a little newer you see Elias de Poot, Erik van Gils then you go even newer you see Alpha Dia, Oscar Kindelan then you go even newer you will see Arun Gupta, Sakua Kambong, Luc Defont.

The male model trend is changing, it's no longer a sculpted face with distinguishable cheek bones and super intensive eyes accompanied with muscular bodies. That type of look is the norm and fashion is shying itself away from it. With brands like VETEMENTS, Balenciaga, GUCCI perpetuating the weird skinny look even more, you'll find less and less male models that have the features you find attractive. It is just how the fashion world works.

Current male models don't do this to be THE top model. A lot of them are studying on the side, have nothing else to do, want to explore the world, doing it 'cause the money is good (lol), is endorsed by fashion giants. (Kim Jones has his set of boys that he gives gifts to and helps them get high profile shows early in their careers)

 

[AbEx]

like every tendencies, real male models ( and models in general ) will come back. it is just a question of time. Maybe not like in the early 2000s but for sure it will be back

 

[Plax]

The only show these days that puts SOME emphasis on the male models where casting would be a BIG deal is Balmain...and that's saying something.

Seriously? Nobody cares casting of Balmain. Also, in menswear there are no instamodels who work like Gigi, Kendall, Bella etc. There are very little shows and campaigns that cast instamodels. (Balmain, Boss, Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger) The only posh who gets major editorials is Lennon Gallagher, I don't think he is kind of Instamodel. (He only has 75k followers.)

I don't see Men's fashion and Men's fashion Magazine are dead. Now, the most powerful stylists like Benjamin Bruno, Max Pearmain, Joe McKenna, Olivier Rizzo, Karl Templer started their career from Men's fashion (I'm not sure to case of Joe) and still produce their best works from Men's fashion. Benjamin's works with Alasdair McLellan for Arena Homme and Vogue Homme International, Max's work with David Sims for Arena Homme and work with Theo Sion for Le Monde M, Joe's works with Karim Sadli for Mastermind and Fantstic Man and Olivier's work with Willy Vanderperre for Dust were their best works in 2017 F/W.

WSJ, T, and Interview spare their 2 issue to men's fashion annually. Le Monde M produces men's fashion monthly, and there are GQ France, Fantastic Man, Man About Town, Arena Homme, Replcia and Another Man. Also, many high fashion magazines like Vogue Italia and W and Indie Magazines like I-D, Dazed, Dust, Print etc put men's fashion and male models regularly. To me, it's not that small.

 

[Plax]

To me, one of the problem of male model industry is that there are too many models. It's a pleasure to see bunch of new faces every season, but there are too many. Prada makes almost 20 new faces debut in this season. (There were only 44 looks), It is crazy. Other problem is that there are less responsibilities in casting male models to editorial and advertisement. They just put their favorites to campaigns and editorials without considering diversity and sustainability. It's really sad that despite of their successes in runway, many black models and asian models like Myles Dominique, Bomchan Lee, Wang Chenming haven't got campaigns they deserve to get. (Myles Dominique got only one high fashion campaign, Burberry S/S 17 and Bomchan and Wang haven't got any high fashion campaigns - they just got MCM, Bally, Gap)

 

[Plax]

WSJ, T, and Interview spare their 2 issue to men's fashion annually.

My mistake, Interview doesn't put 2 issues to men's fashion annually. They made their November 2017 issue for men's fashion. I'm not sure it is regular thing. However, it's still true that they're making men's fashion editorial continuous.

 

[MillerJoe]

Honestly, they should go to Japan/South Korea where they may be more appreciated,
but they could still easily get a job in the industry - even if not modelling.

 

[arvage]

Honestly, they should go to Japan/South Korea where they may be more appreciated,
but they could still easily get a job in the industry - even if not modelling.

They are going to Japan and Korea. UNIQLO shoots there, Japanese magazines love using Western models, catalogues too. Small clothing brands in Korea also import models. It's not the end of the world.

No one is paying enough attention to male models that's why people think they're gone when in fact they're still here, they're still getting jobs and with the rise of street wear/luxury it's only going upwards from here.

Why do you think Saint Laurent has a dedicated Men's show? or Hedi Slimane making a menswear line for CELINE? The article is debunked. NEXT!

 

[Bertrando3]

A few guys are actually standing out but truth to the matter is that the 2000 guard is still there:
- Andrés Velencoso, Jon Kortajarena, Sean O´Pry, Noah Mills, Simon Nessman, David Gandy, Brad Kroening etc.

+

the 90´s old school guard is still working from time to time therefore it seems the industry does not need fresh blood just yet:
- Tony Ward, Tyson Ballou, Tyson Beckford, Werner Schreyer etc.

Sometimes I see great models who keep being there season after season and I have to say in the oceansss of new faces and upcoming top models, Francisco Henriques is my favorite new Top Working Model.