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http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/01/17/opinion/rnerd.php#
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http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/01/17/opinion/rnerd.php#
A frumpy geekiness is height of Tokyo cool
By Kaori Shoji
TUESDAY, JANUARY 17, 2006
TOKYO You would never think such a thing could happen, but evidence points to the once-unthinkable conclusion: It's hip to be a geek, at least if you live in Tokyo.
Fashionwise, this means boys in specs have come to have almost the same subtext as boys in leather jackets, and the same goes for oversized lumber-jack shirts, discount shop jeans, shapeless sneakers.
Salon-cut hair is out as well, since geek style calls for the kind of hair that looks as if it had fallen on a guy's head as he fought his way through a wind tunnel. The geek also favors synthetic materials over natural ones (much easier to clean and maintain) and will choose to wear shapeless fleece pullovers in colors like spinach green (such colors are the last to go and therefore always on sale), purchased at the local casualwear outlet Uniqlo, where China-manufactured fleece jackets sell for ¥1,500, or about $13. For the geek, springing for a wool jacket or sweater is the height of useless extravagance; money should be spent on the latest videogame software.
As for a frenetic workout at the local gym to attain that washboard stomach, nothing could be further from the mind of this new class of hipsters. If a geek has an extra hour, he'll spend it by his computer. Unsexy is the new sexy.
"They just look so much more sincere and relaxed about things. At this point, guys who dress well and take care of their appearances are slightly ridiculous," said Sayaka Miyazaki, a 23-year-old party girl. "I can't take them seriously." Actually, Miyazaki isn't saying anything new; glasses and a gentle, humble demeanor have been in for the past two years or more, with the enormous popularity of the Korean star Be Onjun. Be, who looks too shy and too decent to have ever asserted himself over a woman, has become a sex symbol without even undressing from the neck down.
"I think Japanese women are turned off when Japanese or Asian guys advertise themselves," adds Miyazaki. "It feels all wrong, somehow."
In fact, last season's most popular TV series, "Train Man," told the story of a romance between a genuine virgin geek who was totally clueless about how to behave on a date and a successful, immaculately suited woman working in the financial district. She went by the nickname of Hermès (and dressed accordingly), while he wore baggy jeans and plaid shirts.
The whole look now is about not trying. In addition to glasses, the other must-have item for the sexy geek is the sweatshirt and pants set, known in Japan as the jyaajii, or jersey. The Japanese jersey is at once nostalgic and embarrassing; you may find a Japanese who has never worn jeans, but you won't find anyone who has never worn a jyaajii. We wore it during our school years (mandatory during gym and extracurricular activities) and later, men held onto their sets as the ideal home/loungewear.
Pure stretch polyester, totally unflattering on the male body and kitsch to the very core, the jyaajii was a metaphor for the caricature geek, the standard uniform for the stay-at-home guy, munching donuts in front of the computer as the bluish lights of the screen flicker on his glasses.
That metaphor is outdated now as even Comme des Garçons Hommes has come out with the ultimate anti-fashion statement, consisting of classic, old-school jyaajiis that sell for more than ¥40,000 a set (women's sets come with polyester pleated jyaajii skirts). The Japanese sports label Onitsuka Tiger, once considered too absurdly nerdy for words, has opened a Parisian outlet.
"The jyaajii is a strange outfit," says Masanobu Kotani, an Onitsuka fan. "It's neither streetwear nor sportswear. No one can look good in it, not even Brad Pitt or David Beckham. Still, we can't not wear it. Personally, I can't think of relaxing in anything else than the jyaajii."
Kotani will take pains to dress nicely when he's out on a date with his girlfriend, but the minute they return to his apartment, the jyaajii comes on.
"My girlfriend says I look cute and geeky. She says it makes her feel secure that I won't go off and have affairs on the sly," he says. For Christmas, she got him a jyaajii set from Burberry.
As for Kotani, he forgot to get her a gift. "I'm not really good with stuff like romance and presents," he says.
Maybe not, but his girlfriend doesn't seem to mind. Kotani is one of a growing number of sexy geeks who were persuaded by young, sophisticated women to enter into relationships, but being "typical of the model," as he describes himself, he couldn't care less whether love is at his doorstep or not.
Any true-blue geek will tell you that women, after all, are no match for the comfort and pleasure of sitting around in a jyaajii and munching donuts as the lights of the computer screen flicker on his glasses.
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