Originally posted by Fashion Wire Daily Paris July 2@ 2003
Galliano's Men: Just Like Himself![]()
By Godfrey Deeny
Though John Galliano's research frequently takes him to distant countries and ancient worlds, when it comes to his own men's collection the designer has taken his own gloriously exotic self for inspiration.
Unveiled in a Paris showroom this week, Galliano's debut men's collection is a rather delicious blend of edgy party animal, Latin lover and gentleman dandy -- just like the designer himself.
In a busy week, even by Galliano standards, he's been unveiling his men's ideas, working hard on the preparation of the Christian Dior haute collection he presents next Monday, and throwing a party in his first new boutique to celebrate a novel partnership -- his first candle with Diptyque. "I've loved Diptyque's candles for years, so when they suggested a collaboration I jumped at the chance," Galliano told FWD.
Of the men's collections, he says, "There's a lot of me in the men's collection: Latin, gypsy, cowboy, couture. I wanted to incorporate elements of couture into men's wear, like bias cuts and the time of fantastic lace finishing that you only get in Paris. And I am very pleased we have done that."
Just as in the designer's signature women's collection, the Galliano Gazette is very present -- turning up in curvy, over-long jeans, snug cotton jackets, singlets and even some cheeky underwear.
The collection is a rather bravura display of mixing cultural references, genders and fabric finishes to create some wild and sexy looks that above all recall the elaborate outfits in which Galliano likes to take his post-show bow.
There's also a clever element of discreet luxury, ruched fabric on all shirt collars, lace cuffs and hidden hook-and-eye clasps on jacket cuffs.
One look, which Galliano defined as "Adidas meets Toreador," was composed of embroidered nylon track suit tops, pinstripe pants with punky straps, and pockets with garter loops and a fabulous pair of crinkly cowboy boots with turned up toes.
His recent research trip to Rajasthan is also apparent in the fantastic silver belts and multi-droplet necklaces that the models wore in the avenue Gabriel showroom.
Other standouts include Napoleon-style denim jackets, a fabulous blue suede jacket, and some cool suits and pants in an amazing Prince of Wales check with denim patches. Galliano's great skill as a cutter is evident in how he reinvents a hooded sweatshirt by making an asymmetrical hood, so it falls just that little bit heroically.
There are also Jaipur-style sandals, black leather Trilby hats with frayed edges and a few ties, though Galliano insists, "I only wear ties around my waist."
The house is confident that the men's line will retail in 60 doors internationally, compared with the women's collection, which currently sells in approximately 250. Prices vary from $500 for jeans, $1,200 for boots and from $1,500 to $2,500 for jackets.
The collection is not for the reserved and discreet, but seems certain to capture an audience of fashionable men keen to tap into some of the designer's unique mystique. "I know who is going to be one of our best customers -- me," Galliano laughed.