Gary Graham F/W 11.12 New York

Psylocke

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Gary Graham's SS 2011 collection was one of my favorites last season. I'm not sure what to think about this one yet as I had quite some WTF?! moment when looking through the collection. But I adore the first two looks and love all the chunky knits.

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at least he learned less is more, it looks more well done than last collection to me.
 
I'm sorry but I can see nothing aside from the DISGUISING hair. Wow.
 
This collection is hideous and looks so cheaply made.
And the hair makes it even more awful :yuk:
 
Yes the hair is terrible!
But there are some nice pieces there, I feel as if you stripped everything and saw the pieces one by one instead of all piled together, they'd be quite nice :)

only not the trackie bottoms =/
 
It IS difficult to see past the bad wigs; however, if you manage to, I actually think there are quite a few wearable and saleable pieces.

Poor styling though, imo - but unique!!!
 
The wigs are hilarious. But not in a good way. If you take away the tights and the weird hair this is a pretty boring show.
 
I love some of the coats and some skirts. Too bad that the presentation is so messy, it doesn't add any edge or specialness (i guess that's what he went for) but makes it rather hilarious.
 
the collection itself actually isn't bad at all....the presentation is just a little half-cocked and pretty derivative of bernhard willhelm....nothing like his usual sense of presenting which is still quirky in it's environment but doesn't have all the unnecessary styling add-ons,thereby leaving the focus on the work. it's too bad he decided to take such a direction because he is a fantastic talent.
 
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A few cute dresses and a lovely white blouse, the presentation is ruining the rest of it for me o.O
 
finally! Most shows in NY are so safe and boring. This is a breathe of fresh air to me! Thank you Gary Graham for pumping it up at NYFW
 
Talk about bad hair! The clothes themselves aren't that bad but the presentation is awful and so distracting.
 
the collection itself actually isn't bad at all....the presentation is just a little half-cocked and pretty derivative of bernhard willhelm....nothing like his usual sense of presenting which is still quirky in it's environment but doesn't have all the unnecessary styling add-ons,thereby leaving the focus on the work. it's too bad he decided to take such a direction because he is a fantastic talent.
I agree. Some beautiful pieces but the styling is so distracting and unnecessary.
 
for me personally, this all looks really unwearable...

might just be that it's not my style, but everything just looks messy, rumpled and unkempt

i keep looking at it to see if i'll change my mind
but i think it's just really bad. no redeeming qualities here for me
 
Like a lot of it, actually. :)

I agree that some of the looks might be a little bit much and/or messy, but even those also involve some nice pieces, IMO.
 
Looks like one could pick and choose and put together some great looks. Yum!
 
Possibly the best day 1 has to offer (although I've not seen everything)

At first blush the too bad to be true wigs might lead to an uncharitable thought that it's like an asylum escapee got hold of the worst imaginable Anna Sui collection and the worst imaginable JPG and randomly threw looks together.

But converse and non descript stilettos across a collection and when you see the latter done with one green, one navy sport sock on the same model you have to think there's deliberate bad taste, leftfield deconstructive pastiche intent here. So the wigs, therefore, are knowingly 'bad'.

I see the reference someone else made to Bernhard Wilhelm but moreso probably Dame Vivienne and this type of vibe is best done really just on the street by the inhabitants of Hoxton, Brick Lane, Hackney and Peckham. Here, some of the styling decisions did make you wonder, jury out stylie, whether it's really delivered from a cool place or just plain ridiculous.

NYC seems to be continuing it's fascination with early 90's festival grunge channeling, as it does, mid 70's boho, hippy, traveller, ethnic with also so far bits of mid 60's, or sports, or prim in a mash-up of retros.

If you're going to that, do it leftfield like Gary Graham is trying. Not with contrivance like Richard Chai which felt like that same asylum escapee had mashed AW10/11 Marc Jacobs (in the palette of drab with bits of glitter) with AW10/11 Alexander Wang (in the slouchy grungy silhouette). And definitely don't do it with commercialism and too much lady like BCBGMaxAzria which at times felt like very bad Cavalli fused with I'm not quite sure what.

Despite their differences, quite similar positioning across all three in being early 90s/mid 70's/splash of mid 60's. But two points why this doesn't bode well for fashion - 1) taken on a piece by piece view nobody is actually designing anything - it's all just fusion of retros styling and 2) consumers don't actually need to buy anything from these brands. You can do the looks DIY for less - maybe £50 from vintage or £5 from jumble/thrift if you're lucky.

And in doing so you get also the desirable patina of aged authenticity that this festivally positioning somehow benefits from. So, if you're going here, leftfield is obviously the way but take it all the way to thrift DIY and self customisation. Anything overwrought, too lady, too polished or too new just isn't going to work so well. Leave behind the department store, head for the jumble sale. One green sock, one navy sock. Hmm. Maybe.
 
^ Interesting thoughts! :flower: But I do disagree on the thrift shop comments. I find they never have quite the same cut as modern pieces, and that you can't pull off a modern-retro look quite in the same way as new pieces come across; of course there are exceptions and sometimes you can really score in the thrift realm. But you make it sound so simple.

I do see some innovation in cut here, in the satin printed dress, the pants, the skirts. And yeah, lots is derivative, but that's fashion, to a degree. Not many designers come up with completely ground-breaking collections. I'd say fewer than more.
 

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