Gary Graham F/W 11.12 New York

[agee]

So this is where Jean-Paul Gaultier sent his SS2011 wigs to die.

Looks like one could pick and choose and put together some great looks.

I agree. I am not hankering to see this collection rule the red carpet or the street, but hopefully an astute stylist will choose a piece or two to dress an emerging starlet in.

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

^ Interesting thoughts! But I do disagree on the thrift shop comments. I find they never have quite the same cut as modern pieces, and that you can't pull off a modern-retro look quite in the same way as new pieces come across; of course there are exceptions and sometimes you can really score in the thrift realm. But you make it sound so simple.

I do see some innovation in cut here, in the satin printed dress, the pants, the skirts. And yeah, lots is derivative, but that's fashion, to a degree. Not many designers come up with completely ground-breaking collections. I'd say fewer than more.

Interesting points backatcha Not Plain.

Yes I defer to your insight that it might be harder in practice than in theory.

I think I can tell when I hold a vintage piece, especially 60's, 70's, that in it's weightiness, built-to-last-ness, even a two dimensional flatness; that it would feel different to wear.

Do you think it's also something to do with changing cutting technology - lasers over pattern cutting?; changes in bodyshape? or is there also an element of it's what we've become used to? Does the mere fact of paying top buck for current label kudos give a confidence you have to find from somewhere else if wearing a $5 thrift store piece?

I'm very interested in your thoughts and anyone else who cares to pitch in on vintage/modern cut, thrift wearing psychology etc

Some people of course wouldn't be seen dead in a thrift store and they will just have to keep up their Neiman Marcus habit. But can you really do a look like Gary Graham at a shiny new dept store on your gold Amex. Isn't it instantly somehow fake and awkward, suspect.

I guess this is similar territory to the debate over SS11 Balmain - might you pay $15,000 for pinned and studed daisydukes offered up by Mr Decarnin or could you, perhaps should you, do your own.

Ultimately there are probably some people who just crave the buzz of splashing money around - the act of shopping as an end in itself - but whether those people managed to buy cool with their cash, well that's the question...

 

[Not Plain Jane]

^ HA ha! I don't crave splashing money around, and if I score with vintage I revel in it and tell everyone. I seem to have had best luck with outerwear in terms of vintage. Am currently sporting both a fun-fur leopard print coat and a lovely 3/4 sleeve black alpaca topper. Both for a song at thrift. But one thing - vintage shopping takes more time. It takes a lot of weaving through (sometimes smelly) wads of fabric. It can make the hunt fun but also tiresome.

I think some of Gary Grahams look are modern. The cut of those pants and skirts are just "modern" in shapes is what I mean. That's the innovative part here. Some of the outer layering pieces look new to me as well. I just don't think you'd find a long, knee length sleeveless button up in jumble stores.

Those woven hippie-looking things, personally I'd pass on, or if I suddenly wanted that Mary Tyler Moore 70s look, I'd look for similar knits/dresses in a thrift store.

So for me, it's pick and choose with shopping: i like to mix thrift, designer and mainstream all together for a hodgepodge of my own.

(p.s. I agree with you 100% on the Balmain and Marant looks - would NEVER pay that kind of money for a lot of those looks, even if I won the lottery. I would spring for a Balmain dress or jacket -especially- and maybe some Marant floaty things. But never those hole-y jean short and chino looks. Beh!)

 

[Not Plain Jane]

source: style.com

This is the shirt I mean - I would wear this look with different shoes, but to me it looks quite "new". You can wear it open, styled like it is here, or you could button it up with leggings and sandals. Or you could button it up and belt it and wear it with boots and a sweater. Cool piece, in my estimation.

 

[Scott]

tentacl,i don't think it's just about laser cutting....there actually are very contemporary and innovative techniques in cutting/pattern skills besides that lone approach. i mean look at the work of many of the belgians....they're work doesn't comprise of mere laser cuts. elke hoste is actually the premier pattern designer for many of them and she's one of the most innovative in just how she cuts. anyway,as far as being discernible,the kind of work you get from today's design compared with yesteryear's selections are newer,fresher material mixes and of course cuts do play a big role. sometimes you just don't get the same feel and the same shape from vintage as one would in modern design. i love vintage and i love second hand but for me it's all about the mix.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

^ Yes, and also, while vintage has that "weightiness" to it, I often prefer newer, lighter fabrics, with more breathability.

 

[rui]

he doesn't sell wigs people... lets look at the clothes. Styling maybe a bit much but at least it makes us all talk about it. Dissect the looks and I think we would all find lots of pieces that we would wear daily.