Givenchy S/S 2020 Paris

[perfect blue]

Yeah but it’s time these luxury conglomerates stop playing politics and pick the best people for the job. Call me insensitive, problematic, a bigot, and politically correct. Who isn’t called those things these days tbh

(Btw dior_couture1245, I know you’re being sarcastic lol)

 

[YohjiAddict]

That was rough! The appliqued dresses were ugly as sin, the denim was uncalled for and the Pheobe-isms ended up flat and forgettable. I won't defend this mess...

 

[blackcherrified]

Yeah but it’s time these luxury conglomerates stop playing politics and pick the best people for the job. Call me insensitive, problematic, a bigot, and politically correct. Who isn’t called those things these days tbh

I second that. At the same time I believe there are female designers out there who are capable of the job, just that they are not cisgender West European white women

Back to the collection, I believe you could hunt down more than half of the separates here in COS, Zara or H&M stores now and recreate these looks for a lot less

 

[tricotineacetat]

I really like all of the riffs on the lapel-less suiting, the proportion of all those bar suits and coat dresses look great - Next to most of her 'female designer' peers like Stella, Victoria, The Row or Nadege, something about her hand with tailoring seems more profound, accomplished and harmonic. It made sense that she combined a longer short with those jackets - Perhaps this is the best 'novelty suit' of the season.

I will also add those double-buttoned blouses to the list of great pieces from this runway, but after that it's one lengthy, puzzling array of unedited clothes with the occasional big faux-pas (all of the washed denim and especially the tailored one!!). I would have loved if she had done raw denim in black or indigo here with the addition of shirts in the same colors to tie it all together but those destroyed washes need to be burned immediately.

 

[gossiping]

gone so off this brand now, this is all over the place and it's nothing really for the runway - yes you can buy it all in zara now too.

 

[Nymphaea]

This isn't a match made in heaven. There seemed to be some possible promising hints but it looks like she's choking. I miss clear depth and vision.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I ask myself which stylist she is consulting for the development of the collection? Perhaps (or, most likely) she isn't a very good designer at editing a collection, but with the help of somebody who looks at a collection as a whole, it could look a whole lot better.

 

[vetements]

Like someone said, her designs lack a clear vision and depth, but just a bunch of very easy on the eye, pretty clothings.
The good thing is that many women will like, so it’s commercially viable but women who buy high fashion don’t want just pretty clothes and even if they buy, I don’t think they will have much loyalty for her Givenchy and not likely to keep coming back season after season.

And don’t get me started on her menswear...

 

[almudena]

I ask myself which stylist she is consulting for the development of the collection? Perhaps (or, most likely) she isn't a very good designer at editing a collection, but with the help of somebody who looks at a collection as a whole, it could look a whole lot better.

It appears the stylist is one of the very best:

 

[perfect blue]

I think her and designers like Proenza Schouler have the situation of being technically skilled and proficient designers but have no voice or identity to their name. It becomes more "wardrobing" instead of fashion. Yeah we can make jokes about "wardobe? lol who even wants to wear this" but my point is that I don't feel fashion propositions from this era of Givenchy really. I just get a sense of pretty and inoffensive garments for daily wear. It seems like that has been the tone in the overall fashion landscape for the last 5 years though. From nearly everyone.

With Riccardo, he was able to build a world and image around his Givenchy. I think that was why he was so successful with reviving the house. Even in the campaigns and editorials, you knew it was Riccardo because of the feeling the images gave the viewer. He really took it upon himself to own his era at Givenchy and express how he wanted to mix his love of things like The Cure and Iron Maiden with marine-inspired couture or dark evening wear. Taking influences like basketball and mixing it with Victorian and religious imagery. Yeah, it sounds like I am kissing Riccardo's *** - but this is just me saying how we were able to tell it was Riccardo x Givenchy every time. I think that Riccardo's era is a burden Clare is trying to overcome and is struggling with. I never get a real sense of her personality through her clothes and pieces. I only get a feeling that she wants to focus on tailoring and elegance.

And off-topic, this reminds me how Riccardo seemed to be so free at Givenchy but feels limited by Burberry.

 

[jeanclaude]

In my opinion, Clare Waight Keller , Maria-Grazia Chiuri and Sarah Burton totally lack vision as designers. They are completely blind...

 

[Lola701]

In my opinion, Clare Waight Keller , Maria-Grazia Chiuri and Sarah Burton totally lack vision as designers. They are completely blind...

And I’m afraid (and I hope she will prove me wrong tomorrow) that Virginie might be in that list soon...

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^She is already

 

[jeanclaude]

And I’m afraid (and I hope she will prove me wrong tomorrow) that Virginie might be in that list soon...

Yes, you are totally right!

 

[donyan]

is it mean to add Natasha to the list ? I feel like all these houses have become so grey and faceless . Change the names and collections around and it wouldn’t change a thing .

 

[Lola701]

is it mean to add Natasha to the list ? I feel like all these houses have become so grey and faceless . Change the names and collections around and it wouldn’t change a thing .

Natacha had a vision. From her first collection to the current FW19, her work was consistent...
The problem was that her vision was overwhelming for the brand.

Chloé is a kind of house where unfortunately, designers have to dilute their voice in order for it to be successful.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Clare, I was rooting for you. Really felt let down by this collection. There's nothing to like here. It lacks vision, story, direction. Complete mess of denim. From her first collection to this, it feels all over the place. I was hoping that Couture collections will pave a direction for her but it's not.

I do believe though that she is a good designer. Maybe Givenchy is more ambitious than her ability. She has skills to do clothing, accessories. She could be great at a quieter house like Hermes.

 

[perfect blue]

Clare, I was rooting for you. Really felt let down by this collection. There's nothing to like here. It lacks vision, story, direction. Complete mess of denim. From her first collection to this, it feels all over the place. I was hoping that Couture collections will pave a direction for her but it's not.

I do believe though that she is a good designer. Maybe Givenchy is more ambitious than her ability. She has skills to do clothing, accessories. She could be great at a quieter house like Hermes.

She is for sure good. I like her early couture pieces a lot from 2018, those are her best work imo. I agree with people saying that Hermes would suit her.