Givenchy S/S 2026 Paris

[Cocteau Stone]

This is better than her debut. Much better. But there’s still something off about it. I get the sense that there’s people whispering in Burton’s ears telling her what to do design wise to keep Kering happy. I don’t know but it feels forced in many ways.

What makes this apparent is the disparity and awkwardness in the clothes, styling and music. Many pieces reek of knock offs, but knock offs of notably memorable designs (the YSL low cut skirt, Alaia perforated fabrics, Ferre white shirts) “disguised” with Givenchy “twists” to add social media traction. Then the styling of some of these is really off… the plethora of swim/body suits, all the show jewellery, awkward shoe choices that some of the models are really struggling with and the constant look repeats. With the music (which I think is the best part of the show) is a McQueen redux, with the use of Public Image Ltd and the classical doesn’t match the collection. I’m really lost with this but I’m not offended.

Something is afoot here that is more behind the scenes. The design team and the suits have made for a confusing meddling. I can’t say Burton is a strong designer outright from an independent level, I don’t think she has the strongest vision at large to really support herself unless she fully commits. She’s a great tailor and knows construction. Identity wise, she benefited strongly working at a house like McQueen to help with the narrative and the team/s there would also have been a great support. Her at Givenchy seems like an ideal fit but the dynamic is very different. I’m glad it’s no longer MW, but it’s starting to feel like another CWK case of mistaken identity and vision.

 

[disco54]

Its so boring I fell asleeping during the show

*asleep

 

[tricotineacetat]

She’s still an incredible tailor, but this show didn’t prove it.

I find that a perplexing thought, given that the outfits she presented did not lack in precision of cut and proportion - Yes, this could have passed as any of her boutique-friendly pre-collections at McQueen but I‘m okay with that, given that she is at a more classical house and designing in this particular, highly uncertain moment in fashion.

 

[blackcherrified]

I find that a perplexing thought, given that the outfits she presented did not lack in precision of cut and proportion - Yes, this could have passed as any of her boutique-friendly pre-collections at McQueen but I‘m okay with that, given that she is at a more classical house and designing in this particular, highly uncertain moment in fashion.

I hold the same view, I think in this current climate in the luxury fashion it’s better to be someone that “do no wrong” and create classy-and-classic pieces of clothings (yes, boring, I know) which the current clients of a label can buy and fit into their wardrobe, than be “revolutionary”, flip-the-table and alienate a good majority of their current clients *cough* AM’s Valentino *cough*

 

[tourbillions]

I am surprised how many of the looks from her first runway were actually produced. Even the ones that would almost fit the couture label. I always like that no matter how complicated her tailoring can get, they are never just for show.

Many forget that when she was left with Mcqueen, Mcqueen did not really have a strong Mcqueen silhouette. He had his design language but he was changing things from season to season. And she took his most identifiable silhouettes and focused on it to establish a Mcqueen woman.

She is doing the same with Givenchy by laying out her Givenchy woman who has been lost since Tisci. Soon when we see certain silhouettes, we will know instantly its Givenchy by burton. Hopefully she is given ample time to build that woman and to finally run with it and get experimntal.