Graeme Black: Ferragamo

[helena]

THE NEW BLACK

GRAEME BLACK's plans to launch his own label in September don’t mean he loves Ferragamo any less. Having acted as consultant designer for the Italian house for the last six seasons, he foresees his relationship with it growing stronger in the future. "It's a fantastic opportunity to work with the luxurious DNA of the house and its incredible heritage," he says. "Each season I read all the books and go through the archives to ensure that my work is a reflection of this amazing family and what they have done for fashion." So why launch his own label? "I wanted to create my own identity," he explains. "I wanted to ask my self, 'What's my favourite colour, what's my favourite fabric?'" Having spent the last six months working on a showroom in Milan with Jonathan Reed, the interior designer who worked on David Bowie and Iman's house, Black plans to start small and eventually open his own shops. "With this project there is no pressure to do anything – I don't have to have three-button jacket – I don't have to include anything I don't feel is natural. It's about a return to true craftsmanship. It's about having a relationship with my customers. I want them to feel when they come here that I'm the tailor, working away in the back of the room. I want them to feel like they'd like to add these clothes to the collection that is their wardrobe. They're really special pieces. For more information visit www.graemeblack.com

 

[kit]

I remember reading that Graeme Black is the nominated heir to Armani , at least as far as design of clothes is concerned .

 

[Lena]

here some more on mrBlack from wwd of today

Graeme Black, head of the women's ready-to-wear design team at Salvatore Ferragamo, is preparing to launch a women's collection bearing his own name. Come September, the Scottish designer will present a test collection of about 20 to 25 pieces to retailers and journalists to gauge interest and market needs. "We don't feel the need to rush into this," Black said.

Black and his business partner, interior designer Jonathan Reed, are negotiating with Italian manufacturers to produce a more full-fledged collection for fall-winter 2006. Black said there's a niche in the market for high-quality clothes, especially leather pieces and knitwear, with a customized fit. "[There are] people who want to buy but they are not finding what they want," he said.

Black will continue to design for Ferragamo and consult for other brands. The designer left Ferragamo in April of last year after a reported clash with management. He returned to the house on a consultancy basis last September. Black said he just inked another two-year contract with Ferragamo.