helena
Swim Upstream
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THE NEW BLACK
GRAEME BLACK's plans to launch his own label in September don’t mean he loves Ferragamo any less. Having acted as consultant designer for the Italian house for the last six seasons, he foresees his relationship with it growing stronger in the future. "It's a fantastic opportunity to work with the luxurious DNA of the house and its incredible heritage," he says. "Each season I read all the books and go through the archives to ensure that my work is a reflection of this amazing family and what they have done for fashion." So why launch his own label? "I wanted to create my own identity," he explains. "I wanted to ask my self, 'What's my favourite colour, what's my favourite fabric?'" Having spent the last six months working on a showroom in Milan with Jonathan Reed, the interior designer who worked on David Bowie and Iman's house, Black plans to start small and eventually open his own shops. "With this project there is no pressure to do anything – I don't have to have three-button jacket – I don't have to include anything I don't feel is natural. It's about a return to true craftsmanship. It's about having a relationship with my customers. I want them to feel when they come here that I'm the tailor, working away in the back of the room. I want them to feel like they'd like to add these clothes to the collection that is their wardrobe. They're really special pieces. For more information visit www.graemeblack.com