Gucci F/W 2024.25 Milan

Он даже не заморачивается с разрезом. Там были две абсолютно одинаковые фигуры, только одежда разного цвета)
И даже силуэт не изменил.
Скучный.
Я думаю, что у Gucci должен быть Матье Блази.

IMG_20240224_013227_550.jpg IMG_20240224_013208_425.jpg
 
Он даже не заморачивается с разрезом. Там были две абсолютно одинаковые фигуры, только одежда разного цвета)
И даже силуэт не изменил.
Скучный.
Я думаю, что у Gucci должен быть Матье Блази.

View attachment 1251053 View attachment 1251054
Translation:
He doesn't even bother with the cut. There were two absolutely identical figures, only the clothes were different colors.
And he didn’t even change the silhouette.
Boring.
I think Gucci should have Matthieu Blazy.
 
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That black coat with the ombre palettes did give me pause, but that's it. It's weird seeing that this is Gucci now. Alessandro may have given is a million different looks per runway, but here was so much to pick through after. This, while thankfully shorter,was extremely one note and not that interestinf.
 
If we are starting to defend Frida’s Gucci, who tells me that in 7 years people would not defend Kim Jones’s Fendi and Virginie’s Chanel.
Pretty much this. Whatever the opposite of recency bias is.

There’s always a contrivance that’s associated with anything he does which bothers people a bit I think. I saw some men’s suits from the last show in the office recently, and I have to say they look great on the racks. He/they gotta figure out how to present his work soon bc honestly that’s half of the job as a CD.
 
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A collection with pretty nice clothes. Expensive fabric and some cute details. But this is Gucci and Ancora be damned
 
Also, I just realised that Sabato didn't design any pants despite this being a winter collection...
As soon as I noticed this, it was a glaring issue.

I get seasons now have become a little blurred due to global shifts in style, globalisation at large and of course the drastic shift in seasonal temperature over the years. You would just expect some sets of pants on show to access trans-seasonal desires for the wardrobe right? Especially at Gucci too. Not everyone will want to wear monogrammed hoochie shorts with their undone button up and over coat…
 
Maria Grazia he is certainly not. She has an incredible strength in accessories and knows how to make hits for whichever company she works for. Those "JADIOR" shoes from her first season are still a best-seller for the brand. And all of those bags she / her team produce each season, love them or not, are more often than not commercial hits.

It's ironic because Gucci has a much stronger heritage and history of leather goods and accessories than Dior, yet somehow they are one of the weakest players in that market at the moment.

In terms of the clothes, well they are just so generic looking. "Beautiful" but also irrelevant too. And at that price point, well I don't see why you wouldn't just buy Valentino or Dior, which have the Haute Couture savoir-faire and that kind of elevated brand image that Gucci will never have.

Their only strategy at "brand elevation" (the fashion catch phrase of 2024) is to raise the prices and give everything a very generic and therefore "timeless" allure in order to convince the consumers that somehow the brand is worth the investment.
 
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between this, prada, and burberry, iono chile...

first of all, who is he desinging for? who is the gucci woman he wants in these clothes? is she mediocre, a wallowing wallflower on the precipice of depression episode, is she pant-less, does she enjoy tacky see through dresses and lace to express her vulnerability and fragility in this cruel world? does she enjoy life or just keeps her head down and tries to make it through the day without a drink?

commercial clothes are soulless. sabato's gucci is a ghost in a shell; a robot.

and, did most of the top models skip milan this season? or were budgets tight?

If we are starting to defend Frida’s Gucci, who tells me that in 7 years people would not defend Kim Jones’s Fendi and Virginie’s Chanel.
there's nothing of those two worth defending, so you might be right about that

but if you meant the opposite (would defend in 7 year's time), then nah. people will still drag them. neither has initiated a pop culture moment like frida so they're legacy is remembering the bad than the good.
 
Maria Grazia he is certainly not. She has an incredible strength in accessories and knows how to make hits for whichever company she works for. Those "JADIOR" shoes from her first season are still a best-seller for the brand. And all of those bags she / her team produce each season, love them or not, are more often than not commercial hits.

It's ironic because Gucci has a much stronger heritage and history of leather goods and accessories than Dior, yet somehow they are one of the weakest players in that market at the moment.

In terms of the clothes, well they are just so generic looking. "Beautiful" but also irrelevant too. And at that price point, well I don't see why you wouldn't just buy Valentino or Dior, which have the Haute Couture savoir-faire and that kind of elevated brand image that Gucci will never have.

Their only strategy at "brand elevation" (the fashion catch phrase of 2024) is to raise the prices and give everything a very generic and therefore "timeless" allure in order to convince the consumers that somehow the brand is worth the investment.

I’m not sure if you’re aware, but Sabato’s designs from last September only just dropped in stores this month. No one knows yet if they are a flop or a hit, commercially. Are you musing about the CD-less Gucci sales data from 2023?
 
"Follow your heart"...oh boy, you need a defibrillator ASAP!!! Gucci is dying!!

So "Ancora" is gonna be basically this: the same collection again and again, with little variations each season.
More embroidered coats, more embossed logos, more of the same "short vs long" silhouettes...

By the way, I think it´s official that putrid green is the colour of the season. And here we can find a wide range of nauseating greens too!
 
Oh wow I was rooting for him but this is not it. There are some decent pieces but also some head scratchers. Something is off, maybe styling? I actually prefer his debut. Plus, those puffy bags are over and done.
 
so where are the clothes. Gucci desperately needs clothes. There is nothing here. Mini shorts with see through dresses. Where is the clothing for the women who are actually capable of buying multiple pieces at a time. I like that the things here seem more precious but we need a SDS denim and slack proposition.


That burgundy python and eel skin pea coat is exquisite.
 
safe, clean and a bit robotic: yes.
iconic, dreamy and fearless: no.

it seems like the perfect collection of the times we are living in at the moment.
nobody wants to stand out too much, everybody wants to fit in somehow.
i have to work with younger folks business-wise and what i witness mostly is that they value individuality not as much as me and my generation did when we were at their age (especially in fashion).
To attain a personal style is just not that important for them anymore - it's more of an everyday triviality.
 
This is terrible, its a poor man's Prada with crappy fabrics. The bags are terrible. The only thing covetable probably are those 70s platform loafers. This brand though is in over kill mode now, its like a luxury Ed Hardy now lol.
 
Frida Giannini put a pink and white polo shirt tucked into low rise skinny black pants and loafers on the runway.
Revisionism will never make me say that she was so great at Gucci! I will never allow myself to convince me that!
But I will always say that her talent in accessories was unmatched and her clothes probably belong elsewhere.

If we are starting to defend Frida’s Gucci, who tells me that in 7 years people would not defend Kim Jones’s Fendi and Virginie’s Chanel.

We got to do better! LOL
Frida had like 2-3 hit collections but the VAST majority of her shows were terrible and lack lustre and that hideous "Frida" pant she kept pushing ie the jodhpurs with the loose crotch were godawful.
 

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