Gucci F/W 2024.25 Milan

[Deleted member 141309]

This is quite hard to comment on every time. After Alessandro and his extremely strong and precise aesthetic, the biggest problem in viewing is that while it is quite boring, it is also not hard to understand why it looks this way, because the brand needed a palate cleanser, basically smell of coffee after a strong, complex perfume. Considering this, I think he is doing quite a good job - it is stylish and desirable, but does not stand out and has almost no identity. One of the issues is also how youthful the brand suddenly became. Gucci is indeed one of the "old money" brands with huge history of serving the elite and the royalty, and one cannot just erase that and make the brand cool and flood it with youngsters. Michele made it fresh and 'cool', yet he always carefully included more mature and classic models into his shows and campaigns.

The casting of new models is cute, but it has no identity to it. When the godforsaken Demna came, his casting had laser precision. Here it is... inclusive and young, but what else?

I do not agree that it is dreadful and a disaster (that would apply to Collina Strada and etc., probably), just boring. The huge houses can be boring at most, because if it is not good, it is just safe. He would probably just be Facchinetti of today's Gucci, but with more stakes on financial profit.

 

[Kimihiro]

It’s clear they want an MGC Dior situation, but while Mary Grace is boring her clothes are admittedly desirable. I fail to see that here. It’s just pedestrian, sexless and boring.

 

[THD96]

You know it's quite alarming when the most exciting designer in your group right now is Anthony Vaccarello. It's not a good look Kering.

This could be Valentino 2.0 for all that matters.

 

[AVC]

This is quite hard to comment on every time. After Alessandro and his extremely strong and precise aesthetic, the biggest problem in viewing is that while it is quite boring, it is also not hard to understand why it looks this way, because the brand needed a palate cleanser, basically smell of coffee after a strong, complex perfume. Considering this, I think he is doing quite a good job - it is stylish and desirable, but does not stand out and has almost no identity. One of the issues is also how youthful the brand suddenly became. Gucci is indeed one of the "old money" brands with huge history of serving the elite and the royalty, and one cannot just erase that and make the brand cool and flood it with youngsters. Michele made it fresh and 'cool', yet he always carefully included more mature and classic models into his shows and campaigns.

The casting of new models is cute, but it has no identity to it. When the godforsaken Demna came, his casting had laser precision. Here it is... inclusive and young, but what else?

I do not agree that it is dreadful and a disaster (that would apply to Collina Strada and etc., probably), just boring. The huge houses can be boring at most, because if it is not good, it is just safe. He would probably just be Facchinetti of today's Gucci, but with more stakes on financial profit.

I agree with your take here. I think it will take a few seasons for us to see if Sabato develops anything beyond a penchant for coats and mini shorts. But if the collection sells well (and I do think it will), then we may be seeing quite a few more in the same vein.

I wish he would include more of his evening wear in these collections though; Gucci’s recent celebrity dressings have been very clean, sharp, sexy yet tasteful. Why hasn’t that translated onto the runway?

 

[Deleted member 141309]

You know it's quite alarming when the most exciting designer in your group right now is Anthony Vaccarello. It's not a good look Kering.

I think Kering has top-level management issues since quite some time. They are making a lot of strange decisions. Letting Michele go after a little decrease in interest was one, yet Demna is still here, but Balenciaga has lost a lot of prestige and he has way less range. Bottega had Lee, who was also troublesome, but great. McQueen was the logical choice since Sarah was also very close to McQueen himself, and Michele had worked a very long time for Gucci before as well. Now they seem to be stuck with a parade of either troublesome creatives or nondescript ones like here.

LVMH is way smarter in this regard. They snatched MGC, who is meh, but has an extremely strong business sense on how to sell. They got JWA, who is also very controversial and often unpleasant as a person, yet his impact on Loewe was too great to let him go. They also have Nicholas since million years ago, and they are stuck with Hedi now too, who not also has vengeance on Kering, but is the only designer we have right now who may be on par with Karl in terms of product-moving influence and former media presence (Miuccia too, but she is not available.). The only mistakes are Kim at Fendi, but they have Silvia to cover for it, and Givenchy. But having one brand that is not doing well, when you have many others that are consistent and profitable is another story.

 

[KoV]

Slight overemphasis on “youthful” looks and casting aside, I really like this. I too wish there were more evening looks, a little more…. length. But to me this is polished, cohesive, commercial, and Gucci.

 

[thiago:)]

I might take this over Prada but need to digest it a bit to have an opinion.

 

[donyan]

It's a huge improvement on the debut, a lot of beautiful and desirable product. A product that one might find similarly at a host of other brands, from Prada to Max Mara. The clothes are well cut and luxurious, and if I had an unlimited budget I'm sure I could find a host of pieces to wear, which I suppose is the idea. But: is this enough for such a mega brand?

 

[Kennnnn]

That semi-circle handbag... does it rest at an angle when one puts it down?

 

[Kanzai]

Frida, pls comeback girl !!!

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Good lord, we do not need two Valentino shows this season. The one in Paris is bad enough!

 

[Lola701]

I think the chunky knitwear was good. There were 2 long coats (one camel, one navy blue) that were beautiful but my favorite look is the buttery light yellow leather coat worn with a matching miniskirt, a green sweater and those patent orange platforms loafers!

It’s quite interesting to see this after Tom Ford. This has the modernity that I miss from Tom Ford. I don’t want stuff to look like it’s from 2006…

Ultimately, it’s a better effort than ANCORA but I find it even less desirable. The cut is anonymous, the embossed GG on clothes is still tacky. It’s clothes but it lacks in conviction.

And I hate how his narrative is about clothes. Michele in his early days did very commercial clothes. Gucci did not experienced that boom because of the costumes he put out in the end (quite the contrary). I hate that he is giving excuse for the mediocrity.

I think Tod’s did the « Basic de Luxe » better than Gucci. And those GG are uninspired and tacky.

After the menswear I had hope. Let’s see how it continues.

I was almost sad to not hear ANCORA during the finale lol

 

[AVC]

I think the chunky knitwear was good. There were 2 long coats (one camel, one navy blue) that were beautiful but my favorite look is the buttery light yellow leather coat worn with a matching miniskirt, a green sweater and those patent orange platforms loafers!

It’s quite interesting to see this after Tom Ford. This has the modernity that I miss from Tom Ford. I don’t want stuff to look like it’s from 2006…

Ultimately, it’s a better effort than ANCORA but I find it even less desirable. The cut is anonymous, the embossed GG on clothes is still tacky. It’s clothes but it lacks in conviction.

And I hate how his narrative is about clothes. Michele in his early days did very commercial clothes. Gucci did not experienced that boom because of the costumes he put out in the end (quite the contrary). I hate that he is giving excuse for the mediocrity.

I think Tod’s did the « Basic de Luxe » better than Gucci. And those GG are uninspired and tacky.

After the menswear I had hope. Let’s see how it continues.

I was almost sad to not hear ANCORA during the finale lol

I disagree about the GG prints. I always found that print to be super tacky, but the way it was embossed in a smaller scale on the leather is super subtle and almost doesn’t read as a monogram, but rather a pattern. I think that was a very successful modernized use of the monogram to create a subtler effect and it was done really well.

 

[perhydrol]

I don't think it's a bad collection, even if it has a massive word CORPORATE written all over it. It's just... it doesn't spark any desire, and I still know nothing about Sabato's creative direction as it has been all over the place due to their marketing. I guess it could have been perceived way better if Gucci was focused.

 

[Lola701]

I disagree about the GG prints. I always found that print to be super tacky, but the way it was embossed in a smaller scale on the leather is super subtle and almost doesn’t read as a monogram, but rather a pattern. I think that was a very successful modernized use of the monogram to create a subtler effect and it was done really well.

It’s personal…I have an personal issue with monogram on clothes.
I would always prefer a monogram on the lining. Lol

Frida, pls comeback girl !!!

No, please!
I was scared for a minute but I remembered that it will never happen…Ohh I’m relieved! Ahaha

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[RaisinBoy]

Banana Republic circa February 2021 drop lol

PS Whoever styled this should be banned from fashion! Just sayin..

 

[bennyboy]

Frida 2.0 ？

 

[LadyJunon]

That semi-circle handbag... does it rest at an angle when one puts it down?

Probably.

PS Whoever styled this should be banned from fashion! Just sayin..

Alastair McKinn, former EIC of I-D Magazine. He also styles Bottega Veneta.