Gucci F/W 2024.25 Milan

I’d probably like it if the casting was better and if the looks from Loli until the last one were cut. I like the cuts and the dresses were pretty. I also like the looks with shorts and shirts.
The casting improved from last season - at least I knew some girls this time - but needed more good strong models.
But tbh at this point I don’t know what to expect from Gucci anymore. The allure of the brand is a bit cloudy at the moment and it overall has a meh vibe.
 
It's becoming increasingly clear that Kering wasn't looking for a designer with a strong point of view (unlike Michele) but just someone capable of making decent clothes for a large demographic so that they can sell them at an excessive price and that everything will be put into the marketing side.

No wonder they went for a guy coming from Valentino.

Sabado is really bland: his woman could be anybody but as the same time is nobody.
 
When it was suggested that his designs need to be elevated, it wasn't meant literally on a raised runway.

It's such an incredibly faceless collection. Better than last season, don't get me wrong, it's just baby food or meal replacement pills at this point. Plus improving on last season is an easy feat, and I guess doing that is a pat on the back I guess. If this is what Kering wants for Gucci, than I guess they made the right choice but my god, that stream was such a bore to sit through.

Those boots looked incredibly uncomfortable and stiff by the way. Made for some incredibly heavy footed walks which is really unappealing to watch.
 
It's becoming increasingly clear that Kering wasn't looking for a designer with a strong point of view (unlike Michele) but just someone capable of making decent clothes for a large demographic so that they can sell them at an excessive price and that everything will be put into the marketing side.

Ditto !

I feel like there is an improvement from previous season visually but SdS serves the same purpose for Gucci as, years ago now, MCG for Dior - a complete unification of the fashion side: they will be drilling the same silhouettes, accessories, shapes, colours, shoes etc. season after season, show after show until it sits and people will start buying.
 
What a bore. There is no point of view, just another merchandise show that could have been done by the studio team. The casting was terrible, bland looking girls with dead faces and pedestrian walks. The set and lighting made everything even more soulless. There is no desirability.
 
im not sure about the lace dressess but the tailoring with shorts were much better than ancora. he clearly loves a deep v neck and open jackets. I guess he is slowly putting his signatures.

In the long run if his Gucci catches on with their customers i think it should be successful. kind of hard to go wrong with basic clothes with a big brand. Definitely they are trying to do it the Dior way but for a younger woman. Same silhouettes in different colors and fabrics.
 
Majority of that casting was mediocre. If they didn't have a few rising stars like Angelia, Bibi etc (who were great), it would have been even more dire. The girl who closed was beautiful. The first two models were totally expressionless. Look at what Max Mara just did with a stacked cast of incredible girls. Makes such a big difference in elevating the collection.

Set design was a bit flat. The audience was insufficiently dimmed through lighting control. It gave that runway the feeling of being incomplete and sparse. Sort of expect more from Mark Robson also.
 
The show could be called a lot of things… but cheap isn’t one that comes to mind. The materials look expensive, I mean since when are monogram embossed full leather coats “cheap”?
Exactly! it's boring and boring and boring, but well done and expensive looking in every fabric he uses. I loved Alessandro aesthetic but the fabric he uses always seemed cheap to me. Here we have no ideas but at least great fabrics.
 
I found it a lot more desirable than his first season and wouldn’t be surprised if some of this takes off. I particularly liked the red velvet and lace dress, + a lot of the boots.

The main thing that annoys me with Gucci right now though is it seems SO obvious they’re just trying to sell us things. Obviously that’s what all the brands are doing, but Gucci is not masking it well. When I saw the first bag all I could think was “this is what the suits want to sell”
 
Exactly! it's boring and boring and boring, but well done and expensive looking in every fabric he uses. I loved Alessandro aesthetic but the fabric he uses always seemed cheap to me. Here we have no ideas but at least great fabrics.
Agreed! Funnily enough, I loved AM with his unique vision and worldbuilding, but I wouldn’t be caught dead in a single piece he made. Now with Sabato, I get a big “meh” vibe overall but I could actually see myself wearing numerous pieces already.

Big tonal and directional shift, which is what I think Kering wanted. I’m super curious to see how sales actually do with these new collections….
 
They really did f*ck up so bad. His idea of whatever he's trying to do (or the people telling him what to do) is so like... devoid of life. It is so lowest common denominator, here's the wannabe quiet luxury "I wish I was 'old money' I think cuz that's what ppl say is good now but idek what that really is uh" larp, here's the wannabe influencer dresses, here's the wannabe influencer oversized jackets, here's the shiny embroidered coats to loan to influencers that you know are $70,000 but you're never gonna buy but also here are the bags that you should right next to them so you better get your available balance back up to $3500 cuz there's something to buy here!! You want it!! Please I know you want it. What is the aspiration besides "I wanna move to LA or NY and have people want to be me to curb my self-worth problem but idk who or what to be but uh I'm wearing Gucci people are gonna envy me now right please?"? And all those people gather for such a massive merch parade, it's so bleak. So bleak!!
 

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