Gucci S/S 2025 Milan

[Frederic01]

Fabio Zambernardi at Gucci would actually be a major coup for Kering but I wonder if he would be able to manage the kitschy side of the brand alongside his vision, which would be (presumably) very sophisticated and intellectual.

The problem with Gucci is that the web and the logos are what sell, but then it also drags the brand image down and cheapens it. It's a financial blessing but at the same time an aesthetic curse. At this point, I don't see what kind of designer would be able to play into that side of the brand and make it look expensive and "elevated".

Even Alessandro had to compromise on the whole tacky GG logos after a few collections and although he tried to make it very pop culture and whimsical, it still looked awful and tacky in the end.

These executives that demand "brand elevation" and "timelessness" but then create a business strategy where the GG canvas and logos are the most affordable items at the brand and what is appealing to the masses - they are delusional. You can't have it all. You either accept your kitschiness or you embrace timelessness. Choose one or suffer the consequences of diluted brand image and confusing your customer base to the point where sales plunge...

 

[jeanclaude]

WASHINGTON POST

That´s the most honest (in TFS spirit) critic I have ever read! Love it! Although I fear Rachel Tashjian is gonna be banned from those brands for life...

 

[Xone]

Did Angelo Flaccavento not make a review? he is usually honest too...

 

[PDFSD]

Fabio Zambernardi at Gucci would actually be a major coup for Kering but I wonder if he would be able to manage the kitschy side of the brand alongside his vision, which would be (presumably) very sophisticated and intellectual.

The problem with Gucci is that the web and the logos are what sell, but then it also drags the brand image down and cheapens it. It's a financial blessing but at the same time an aesthetic curse. At this point, I don't see what kind of designer would be able to play into that side of the brand and make it look expensive and "elevated".

Even Alessandro had to compromise on the whole tacky GG logos after a few collections and although he tried to make it very pop culture and whimsical, it still looked awful and tacky in the end.

These executives that demand "brand elevation" and "timelessness" but then create a business strategy where the GG canvas and logos are the most affordable items at the brand and what is appealing to the masses - they are delusional. You can't have it all. You either accept your kitschiness or you embrace timelessness. Choose one or suffer the consequences of diluted brand image and confusing your customer base to the point where sales plunge...

Prada is not free from its own share of kitschy side and Fabio was part of that his idol is Marilyn Monroe and Madonna, also have you seen his ig in the past was verry pop and kitschy.

even his cleaned out ig is not free from playfulness kitch



The gg and web was done clean and minimal with TF years and had pop elements when rappers and celebs wont it of course but this is not unique as LV has same balance of tacky and culture and heritage issue and so every brand with some sort of strong ID /logo /identifiers.

The gg and web are not inherently kitchy it became so as logo mania took over etc, even hermes has lots of kitchy products with H and playfulness while the also balance it with high quality and sernous dullness, LV is logo heavy but with NG the also push the design into extreme and also focus on heritage etc.

My point is big brand like LV gucci Chanel dior Hermes all have to balance the kitchy commercial logo´s products and history for elevation for longevity as luxury aurorties.

Old money don't spend as much as new money but new money want s to look like old money and do old money things, in between you have the big part of reliance on logo´s and hero products with clear signifier of the brand that act as a logo in itself for the brand.

I assume Fabio would do a way better job at Gucci than Ancora guy but, then again he been next to Miuccia for so long so we don't know what the balance of his creativity and contribution really was or can be he is strong in shoes where he is known at prada and miu miu to push things but rtw i can't remember what people would say is his obsessions...its verry 50´s /60´s from what i remember of his IG and love of interiors.

Ideal is to create a high fashion hype around the show collections so that the logo product you can demand higher prices for the masses and it has some sort of mass appeal yet a aura of cool hype to balance off the tacky idea of logo, miu miu is full of logo of its name on product but they have cool shoes that are hyped so its becomes acceptable to have miu mu on your polo or bag etc etc

 

[PDFSD]

Let’s Talk About Gucci​

News and notes from fashion week in Milan: what Gucci’s restructuring means for Sabato De Sarno.

Remember that Gucci is a global brand that needs to win back consumers in Asia as much as in the U.S. and Europe.
Lauren Sherman /PUCK
September 23, 2024

The question everyone was asking me in Milan, all weekend, was whether or not Friday’s Gucci show was Sabato De Sarno’s last. My honest answer is that I truly do not know, and I’m pretty sure most people, even executives who work at Gucci, feel the same way. Yes, De Sarno’s name is on the invite for LACMA’s annual Art + Film Gala, which takes place on November 2, but that only means a little.

For what it’s worth, I thought that his latest collection was once again a marked improvement from the previous one. His big idea (i.e., Let’s have fun in cute clothes) was more fully realized, assisted by new stylist Marie Chaix, who appears to be a better match than former stylist Alastair McKimm, who was off helping creative director Adrian Appiolaza sharpen up Moschino. (They succeeded, by the way.) Of course, the industry sentiment around De Sarno matters far less than whether the collection sells. On the runway, the greatest strength was in the shoes, especially the clear-wedge platforms, which you don’t have to love to know that they will work at retail.

What about De Sarno’s neat coats, tulip-skirt sets, ribbed tanks, and wide-leg jeans? Maybe, but remember that Gucci is a global brand that needs to win back consumers in Asia as much as in the U.S. and Europe. Parent company Kering, whose latest results will be released on October 24, recently saw its shares plunge to a seven-year low on analyst reports of soft consumer trends in China.

The other priority for Gucci is restructuring the business, which has changed dramatically during the past year. It was only in July 2023, after all, that Marco Bizzarri was fired. Less than two months later, U.S. deputy Susan Chokachi left the business. (They are now investing in new brands together through Forel, Bizzarri’s fashion and luxury firm, which is linked to Faro Alternative Investments. They were holding court at the show of Elisabetta Franchi, their first buy-in, on Friday night.)
After Bizzarri and Chokachi left Gucci, many more executives followed, and a new management structure was implemented a few months ago. The people at the top—C.E.O Jean-François Palus and deputy C.E.O. Stefano Cantino—are surely still working through the reorganization. As one person close to Kering said to me, De Sarno has the ingredients, but there’s been operational upheaval since the moment he arrived. Now he’s presumably getting the support he needs, but is it all too little, too late?


​

 

[jeanclaude]

"De Sarno has the ingredients"...yeah, but for fast-food. And Gucci is haute-cuisine!

 

[avonlea002]

Fabio Zambernardi at Gucci would actually be a major coup for Kering but I wonder if he would be able to manage the kitschy side of the brand alongside his vision, which would be (presumably) very sophisticated and intellectual.

Sophisticated fashion won't generate billions in sales nor attract nouveau riche spenders. The greed of men at the top is what destroyed this industry.

 

[Xone]

As Tim Blanks described him…he is stubborn..



Can anyone post the whole interview?

 

[imjustken]

Fabio Zambernardi at Gucci would actually be a major coup for Kering but I wonder if he would be able to manage the kitschy side of the brand alongside his vision, which would be (presumably) very sophisticated and intellectual.

Do we really have to blow the ego of these designers ? Ils ont pas déjà le melon ?

 

[Lola701]

Fabio Zambernardi at Gucci would actually be a major coup for Kering but I wonder if he would be able to manage the kitschy side of the brand alongside his vision, which would be (presumably) very sophisticated and intellectual.

The problem with Gucci is that the web and the logos are what sell, but then it also drags the brand image down and cheapens it. It's a financial blessing but at the same time an aesthetic curse. At this point, I don't see what kind of designer would be able to play into that side of the brand and make it look expensive and "elevated".

Even Alessandro had to compromise on the whole tacky GG logos after a few collections and although he tried to make it very pop culture and whimsical, it still looked awful and tacky in the end.

These executives that demand "brand elevation" and "timelessness" but then create a business strategy where the GG canvas and logos are the most affordable items at the brand and what is appealing to the masses - they are delusional. You can't have it all. You either accept your kitschiness or you embrace timelessness. Choose one or suffer the consequences of diluted brand image and confusing your customer base to the point where sales plunge...

Tbh, the GG and stuff can look cool. Tom Ford made it look cool.
What I think Frida did that was clever when she joined was pushing the horsebit foulard print. And in her last seasons, she went through an elevation of the brand by redesigning the line of bags and pushing leather.

I think the Jackie bag, in the original GG monogram, brown suede leather and the web is somewhat chic.

I think the bags from the menswear by the studio I think for FW2023 were perfect. That’s what the direction of Gucci should have been in terms of bags.

 

[FashionPower]

Tbh, the GG and stuff can look cool. Tom Ford made it look cool.
What I think Frida did that was clever when she joined was pushing the horsebit foulard print. And in her last seasons, she went through an elevation of the brand by redesigning the line of bags and pushing leather.

I think the Jackie bag, in the original GG monogram, brown suede leather and the web is somewhat chic.

I think the bags from the menswear by the studio I think for FW2023 were perfect. That’s what the direction of Gucci should have been in terms of bags.

Gucci accessories under Frida were everything! Perfect balance of commercial - high fashion, elevated luxury - mass market.
Her Jackies were amazing and I loved the Diamante line she came up with.
Also both shoes and bags under her tenure perfectly complemented the outfit, rather than being a pure merchandise element added to a look for marketing purposes.
Being said that, I find the GG logo even tackier than the LV one, I can only tolerate it on Horsebit bags.
Gucci bags pricing is so off anyway, even the basic logo ones are overpriced that the price is comparable to Vuitton leather ones...

 

[PDFSD]

You guys nostalgia for Frida is funny, her time is exactly like what Ancora is now ZARA ...it was not a good example or period for the brand .....she was mass market as hell. And this was in the context of her own time already the wider sentiment being alive in that era.

Gucci was not respected during her time both critically or wider fashion public, it was a jet set caricature and often the joke and boring.

To like Frida is to like Ancora , she even was a big Blondi fan and used her music for ads and show inspiration and we are back now again with Debbie for Cruise campaign.

Ancora guy even reintroduced bags from her (firda´s) Gucci time, and they are friends now. what more proof does on need to know the like mindedness of this whole zara moment gucci is reliving now.

 

[jeanclaude]

You guys nostalgia for Frida is funny, her time is exactly like what Ancora is now ZARA ...it was not a good example or period for the brand .....she was mass market as hell. And this was in the context of her own time already the wider sentiment being alive in that era.

Gucci was not respected during her time both critically or wider fashion public, it was a jet set caricature and often the joke and boring.

To like Frida is to like Ancora , she even was a big Blondi fan and used her music for ads and show inspiration and we are back now again with Debbie for Cruise campaign.

Ancora guy even reintroduced bags from her (firda´s) Gucci time, and they are friends now. what more proof does on need to know the like mindedness of this whole zara moment gucci is reliving now.

For me, Gucci died when Tom Ford left in 2004.

 

[Nimsay]

IDK Suzy is her because of this exact thing. Setting sabato up with a good soundbyte about. then letting him trail off on some randomness. What new shapes is he talking about...

Versace stole Sab's lunch and did the 60s energy in a much more desirable manner.

 

[Xone]

Any updates on Ancora guy? do we need to help him pack his bags? lol

 

[Xone]

 

[PDFSD]

*** Missy Tweed mentioned last week lol

Any ways the fun begins this guy has a A....hole reputation at LV and Prada .......will be popcorn season!!!!!!!! from Jan 2025.

Someone will be fired for sure now 🫣

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

You guys nostalgia for Frida is funny, her time is exactly like what Ancora is now ZARA ...it was not a good example or period for the brand .....she was mass market as hell. And this was in the context of her own time already the wider sentiment being alive in that era.

Gucci was not respected during her time both critically or wider fashion public, it was a jet set caricature and often the joke and boring.

To like Frida is to like Ancora , she even was a big Blondi fan and used her music for ads and show inspiration and we are back now again with Debbie for Cruise campaign.

Ancora guy even reintroduced bags from her (firda´s) Gucci time, and they are friends now. what more proof does on need to know the like mindedness of this whole zara moment gucci is reliving now.

I think her first year there was good, I loved S/S 2006 with all those fluttery dresses and the F/W season the same year, I have been trying to search for pieces from either collection and they're hard to track down/still go for a lot of money!

I remember very well all the bad reviews Frida would get for "being too commercial" and "not pushing the envelope in terms of design and fashion" and it's hilarious that these days, all the big designers have gone down the same bland and un-designed route she did but get praised for it. Different times I guess

 

[PDFSD]

I think her first year there was good, I loved S/S 2006 with all those fluttery dresses and the F/W season the same year, I have been trying to search for pieces from either collection and they're hard to track down/still go for a lot of money!

I remember very well all the bad reviews Frida would get for "being too commercial" and "not pushing the envelope in terms of design and fashion" and it's hilarious that these days, all the big designers have gone down the same bland and un-designed route she did but get praised for it. Different times I guess

Agree on both the early 2 collections and the commercial thing now it's almost a must her Frida formula.

I do have a soft spot for Frida Gucci as in vintage as in tacky reappropriated but during its time its was not IT for me.

 

[Creative]

You guys nostalgia for Frida is funny, her time is exactly like what Ancora is now ZARA ...it was not a good example or period for the brand .....she was mass market as hell. And this was in the context of her own time already the wider sentiment being alive in that era.

lmao I’m shocked by the comments about Frida. She was the female version of Sabato but even cheaper.