Gucci S/S 2025 Milan

money changes everything :-)
For budget reasons, really ?
By scraping two menswear shows, they can't save more than 8 or 10 millions a year.
It's a drop for a company still generating several billions of revenues - and they have just hiked the price of the bags.
They have the budget, they just don't want to spend it with Ancora.
 
For budget reasons, really ?
By scraping two menswear shows, they can't save more than 8 or 10 millions a year.
It's a drop for a company still generating several billions of revenues - and they have just hiked the price of the bags.
They have the budget, they just don't want to spend it with Ancora.
They have the budget, they just don't want to spend it with Ancora......exactly

side note remember shows means also all the WW staff that needs to travel and vips and celebs hotels cars dinners events for clients etc

but yes i agree they don't want to further invest in ancora
 
With a little of dignity Ancora guy should resign.....and about Cantino's appointment there is something off about it....
 
Sabato can really make Frida Giannini pass for a genius. She did the horsebit better, she did the loafers boots better…
All I see is a lot of stuff, a lot of undesirable stuff, straight to the outlet stuff AGAIN!

The worst thing is that those products are not even special to be bad. Those are basics that are not even mastered.
 
Sabato can really make Frida Giannini pass for a genius. She did the horsebit better, she did the loafers boots better…
All I see is a lot of stuff, a lot of undesirable stuff, straight to the outlet stuff AGAIN!

The worst thing is that those products are not even special to be bad. Those are basics that are not even mastered.
A step in the right direction, at least (and AT LAST!). Accessories are quite good and desiderable: the east-west Bamboo look nice and so do the mini clutches. The mix between the Marmont and the horsebit with the GG clasp is not pictured but could easily become a new staple for the brand if properly marketed and advertised. Shoes however not so good: the perspex wedges are gonna flop so hard, general public associate perspex with stripper heels. The horsebit flat boots looked nice on the models but they have terrible proportions and lenght for the general public, I bet they're gonna flop too.
As per RTW, the horsebit print in bright tacky colors was the worst element, they should have just focused on the midi dresses with the gold bamboo details. The 60's inspired proposition with mini balloon skirt and jacket in horsebit print paired with the wedges looked so out of style and terribly demodè on the runway. No one is also getting those super long mono colored coats shown at the end, people don't wanna drag the dirt on the street and offices with their coats.
Frida collection compared to Ancora looks like CHANEL haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld.
 
A step in the right direction, at least (and AT LAST!). Accessories are quite good and desiderable: the east-west Bamboo look nice and so do the mini clutches. The mix between the Marmont and the horsebit with the GG clasp is not pictured but could easily become a new staple for the brand if properly marketed and advertised. Shoes however not so good: the perspex wedges are gonna flop so hard, general public associate perspex with stripper heels. The horsebit flat boots looked nice on the models but they have terrible proportions and lenght for the general public, I bet they're gonna flop too.
As per RTW, the horsebit print in bright tacky colors was the worst element, they should have just focused on the midi dresses with the gold bamboo details. The 60's inspired proposition with mini balloon skirt and jacket in horsebit print paired with the wedges looked so out of style and terribly demodè on the runway. No one is also getting those super long mono colored coats shown at the end, people don't wanna drag the dirt on the street and offices with their coats.
Frida collection compared to Ancora looks like CHANEL haute couture by Karl Lagerfeld.
You are generous…
I’m unimpressed. Tbh, his strongest collection so far is his first one.
I will always have a problem with the styling because when you are doing basics with logos, the styling needs to be on point. On point means an outfit not a styling exercise.

In terms of products, I think the slingbacks from the first show and the B bag in medium had a potential. I would have replaced the « Gucci » on the slingbacks for a bamboo or horsebit detail.

In merchandising a new collection, you need a statement piece but also a nice everyday piece. Think about Vuitton: the statement piece from NG is the Petite Malle, the everyday bags are the go14,twist,coussin…etc. At Loewe they have every type of novelty clutches but the Puzzle and Amazona and others are the everyday bags. At BV they have the Andiamo and the Hop and the Sardine is like their novelty piece that women mostly buys as a cute eveningwear bag.

Now, Gucci is like Balenciaga and Saint Laurent where they are pouring products, hoping that something will stick.

Im kind of realistic, I love Daniel Lee but I’m not sure that even with a very strong collection, he will turn things around for Burberry. So at this point, I don’t think that Sabato is the person that will make things turn around for Gucci.

What I think is very sad is that there’s no redeeming element in womenswear and in menswear.
 
Sabato can really make Frida Giannini pass for a genius. She did the horsebit better, she did the loafers boots better…
All I see is a lot of stuff, a lot of undesirable stuff, straight to the outlet stuff AGAIN!

The worst thing is that those products are not even special to be bad. Those are basics that are not even mastered.
in fashion:
genius > awesome > cool > bad > mediocre
 
You really have to wonder - Who is this for? Who is going: What I really want for 2025 is a nylon twin-set in green-and-yellow with contrast-stitching and a swimsuit-hem-finishing. You know, for when it is so hot outside that you want to wear a miniskirt and short sleeves, but also not too hot, so that you are not melting under what is essentially plastic. Even if this is made from heavy silk-twill, I wonder what customer finds this desirable - What age are they? Where are they going? Why are they spending their money on this?!
 
They have the budget, they just don't want to spend it with Ancora......exactly

side note remember shows means also all the WW staff that needs to travel and vips and celebs hotels cars dinners events for clients etc

but yes i agree they don't want to further invest in ancora
Oh yes VIPs attendance (and travel, gifts and paychecks) are usually accounted in the figures, it's around 5 millions for YSL (show and attendance), I just assumed it would be the same for Gucci menswear.
 


I know, I know, it's not really fair to compare - but I've just been looking at some old Jil shows and it might be nostalgia talking but these were also just "clothes", nothing really too extrem, no NG at Balenciaga, but to me, so much more desirable, so much more luxurious than anything Gucci under Ancora has put out, even if the really want you to believe they are making just great clothes. How come? Maybe not as soulless? Maybe clothes that fit? Pondering...
 


I know, I know, it's not really fair to compare - but I've just been looking at some old Jil shows and it might be nostalgia talking but these were also just "clothes", nothing really too extrem, no NG at Balenciaga, but to me, so much more desirable, so much more luxurious than anything Gucci under Ancora has put out, even if the really want you to believe they are making just great clothes. How come? Maybe not as soulless? Maybe clothes that fit? Pondering...

If you look at Gucci SS2006, it was just clothes too…
Context is important in fashion and the vision of looking forward as well as the positioning of a house is important.

Today, it’s a bit easy to put everything at the same level because HF can be seen as luxury but back then, there was a kind of clear distinction in terms of audience, price point, expectation and products.

The person going to Jil Sander, no matter the era, is going for the clothes and the promise of those clothes (Jil Sander is about clothes for an active/professional life). I don’t think clothes was ever the first promise from Gucci.
 
This is tragic… looks like what my dad wears when he skis

View attachment 1329553
This is beyond dusty looking. Like an old d&g listing thats been sitting for years on eBay or poshmark for $75.

The wedge mules are nice. God bless the rest which looks made for outlet, soon to be there anyways
 

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