Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent - A Mistake?

[La bordélique]

what i liked about hedi before is that he seemed to create clothes with a very specific idea in mind, which made it super easy to recognize his designs. very crisp, streamlined pieces made for the "present".

while i do like a few pieces here and there in his latest collections for saint laurent, his inspirations are all over the place. i hate how he's jumping to a certain decade from one collection to the other. leave that task to marc jacobs!! i know he has the house's legacy to live up to, so of course, a few retro references have to be thrown here and there to show respect, but after you've changed the name and the whole brand's image, why not bring something new to the table? doesn't he have the power and liberty to do that?

we're only onto the third or fourth collection... and i believe he can do better. one thing for sure is that i'm always excited to see what he's going to do next, even if it's disastrous.

with all that being said, i think the accessories line is pretty strong. i'm glad they've introduced more androgynous options in their footwear (oxford shoes, lace up boots, chelsea boots). i've always thought the tributes were so gaudy so it's nice to see more minimalist and sleeker high heels taking over.

 

[softgrey]

he's doing a number of YSL knock offs as well as the silly grunge/hole crap...

those are the best bits, but it's not original...
which is ok if you're carrying on the history of the house...
but let's give credit where it's due and give it to YSL who did the originals and created the house...

for my money-
the accessories are the best bits...
they were excellent when pilati was there as well...
they are more my style now though...

its ALL crazy $$$ though...no matter what...
i was searching the internet the other day and came across some AMAZING vintage YSL pieces...
and i mean A-mazing!
capes and coats etc...
i think i would go for a vintage original before i would go for a pricey knock off...

but, that's me...
i always prefer an original to a knock off...

 

[g212142]

I agree, the shoes and accessories are/look far better than the clothes.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

THIS was the thread I've been meaning to post in but I couldn't find it!

Anyhow, like I've said, reinvention and refreshment can be very good for long-standing fashion houses/houses with lot's of history. Look at Frida Giannini and Gucci- when she took the reigns at Gucci, she changed it from a 12 year running supersexy glam brand to a rock n roll, luxury brand by adding her own spin AND going back to the old, old archives of the house. Look at Ghesquiere, he brought back the couture-like quality and silhouettes of the house and added his own rock n roll touch. And Galliano! He added his own elements of eccentricity AND stayed true to the signature silhouette and fabrics of Dior. All of these successful designers did a lot reinvention and refreshing, BUT they didn't completely strip away the house's DNA like Heidi has done.

 

[bearbrick]

THIS was the thread I've been meaning to post in but I couldn't find it!

Anyhow, like I've said, reinvention and refreshment can be very good for long-standing fashion houses/houses with lot's of history. Look at Frida Giannini and Gucci- when she took the reigns at Gucci, she changed it from a 12 year running supersexy glam brand to a rock n roll, luxury brand by adding her own spin AND going back to the old, old archives of the house. Look at Ghesquiere, he brought back the couture-like quality and silhouettes of the house and added his own rock n roll touch. And Galliano! He added his own elements of eccentricity AND stayed true to the signature silhouette and fabrics of Dior. All of these successful designers did a lot reinvention and refreshing, BUT they didn't completely strip away the house's DNA like Heidi has done.

Can't agree more and well said !
This no talent only has one note and he keeps banging it.

The thing is why does P. Berge allow this ? , granted he's no more an owner but surely he can say something !!!

 

[Rosa Pulchra]

I don't know if you have ever seen this documnetar about the creation of fall 2001 houte couture collection. It's called "Yves Saint Laurent 5 avenue Marceau 75116 Paris".
This shows very well in a single collection the vision of YSL himself for his house.

Hedi Slimane is not doing nothing that much. He's just creating some clothing pieces under the YSL name to obtain profits for the house and save his name. Since he's at the helm the house lost it's magical and "superb" moments and that's something inherent to Saint Laurent.
Maybe Slimane fits in another not in YSL, I think.

 

[Koibito]

If we base on the sale growth of the brand, he's doing good at the house.

http://www.cpp-luxury.com/kering-ppr-reports-64-sales-growth-for-its-luxury-division-in-q1/

fashionbi.com/brands/saint-laurent/financials

But the creativity? I don't think so.

 

[Thefrenchy]

^I assume this growth is mostly due to the leathers goods (which are good imo) though...

 

[tboy34]

I really do not feel that Hedi Slimane is the right person for hte house. For the life of me I cannot figure out why Pierre Berger things he is great for the house other than money. There is nothing remotely Saint Laurent about any of his collections. I've been a Yves Saint Laurent fan since I was a little kid and I just do not see it. I'm 46 now and It has been a long time of me watching his work and learning from it. I do not see any kind of echo of Saint Laurent in his collections.

 

[Koibito]

I recently knew that Hedi was the creative director of YSL around 1997-2000 and people in this thread seems they like his works at that time a lot. I don't know why the time was short but i think that is one of the reasons why he's here, at SL.

 

[Illithid Dude]

I really do not feel that Hedi Slimane is the right person for hte house. For the life of me I cannot figure out why Pierre Berger things he is great for the house other than money. There is nothing remotely Saint Laurent about any of his collections. I've been a Yves Saint Laurent fan since I was a little kid and I just do not see it. I'm 46 now and It has been a long time of me watching his work and learning from it. I do not see any kind of echo of Saint Laurent in his collections.

I really don't get this viewpoint. Wasn't the biggest criticism with his SS13 collection that it was too referential and classic Yves Saint Laurent? If anything, the issue is that he's stuck in the 70s idea of the brand, and is unwilling to move the brand foreword.

I recently knew that Hedi was the creative director of YSL around 1997-2000 and people in this thread seems they like his works at that time a lot. I don't know why the time was short but i think that is one of the reasons why he's here, at SL.

He left because he didn't want to be part of the Gucci group. I'd say it all worked out in the end for him, though

 

[squilliam]

I think that Hedi's current work for YSL is better fit for a reincarnated high-street Biba than the hallowed historic house of YSL, he's not necessarily a bad designer, it's just that his current asthetic doesn't work at YSL at all. Yves covered so many different themes, from seventies glam to beaded African mini dresses, and Hedi us just stuck in one spot