Hedi Slimane - Designer

[Kimihiro]

Just one more move for the puzzle… but I’m not holding my breathe.

 

[Frederic01]

When they say "thorny contract negotiations" what do they actually mean? What more could Hedi possibly have wanted to negotiate with LVMH? He had complete Carte Blanche at Celine, no?


BOF

 

[Kimihiro]

What’s left after all that? Molding the biggest fashion house to your image. But that single thing is the one detrimental to his appointment.

 

[Irere]

fortunately he can only man handle and hedi his way into desperate and directionless brands. At this point none is left i think... lanvin could have used him but hopefully theyre in better direction with copping. ferragamo maybe needs him... not sure if they make enough sales for his st tropez life. IF Burberry wanna be in the upper tier so bad, they should hire hedi. Im sure he will make it work.

Slimane meets Burberry? Oh, Lord. He changes the name to “Berry” — no “Bur”! — bans all Nova check, and moves all the design staff from London to his new compound in, say, Ibiza. The knight logo, “Prorsum” — all gone. All the stores are redesigned in white marble, mirrors, and chrome to display his 1960s mod-inspired rocker styles, available in women’s sizes 0-2 and men’s XXS-S.

And no more trenchcoats. They may be very Burberry (oops — Berry), but they’re not Slimane.

 

[tourbillions]

Slimane meets Burberry? Oh, Lord. He changes the name to “Berry” — no “Bur”! — bans all Nova check, and moves all the design staff from London to his new compound in, say, Ibiza. The knight logo, “Prorsum” — all gone. All the stores are redesigned in white marble, mirrors, and chrome to display his 1960s mod-inspired rocker styles, available in women’s sizes 0-2 and men’s XXS-S.

And no more trenchcoats. They may be very Burberry (oops — Berry), but they’re not Slimane.

i was thinking something more "berry" checks in tweed.. but yes thats pretty much what he does in every brand!

maybe he will ban tweed at chanel and replace it with rocker jackets. just to make it hedi

 

[Lola701]

fortunately he can only man handle and hedi his way into desperate and directionless brands. At this point none is left i think... lanvin could have used him but hopefully theyre in better direction with copping. ferragamo maybe needs him... not sure if they make enough sales for his st tropez life. IF Burberry wanna be in the upper tier so bad, they should hire hedi. Im sure he will make it work.

None of those brands can afford him and his accommodations though.
This is someone who commands a 10M salary, requires total creative control, has a say in the production, the marketing and the communication, wants an eye on the number and has a say on the strategy of the brand.
You have to able to set up a studio wherever he wants..
You can’t have a beauty operation on licences because he needs to have a say on that too…
There’s no brand that offers that today…Not even Chanel.
At Hermes, all the activities are separated and Dumas is the creative director handling campaigns and marketing.

When they say "thorny contract negotiations" what do they actually mean? What more could Hedi possibly have wanted to negotiate with LVMH? He had complete Carte Blanche at Celine, no?

I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that it’s about control issues.
The question of royalties on fragrances seems like a stretch to me. I’m not sure he got that in his first contract.
Because he had everything but requiring royalties on beauty is a tad too much for me for LVMH to give him that.

I’m curious to see if they are really going to use all his visuals with the new creative direction ahead.
He has shot the visuals for a fragrance that is supposed to be released in 2026. Are they really going to run it?

 

[Kimihiro]

He left Celine in a good state I think the Arnaults are pretty happy.

 

[NoInvite]

I lowkey wants him to go somewhere random like Gucci.

 

[tourbillions]

gosh all of that sounds so unhealthy for a brand.... its a very small brand mindset honestly. Its good to have a say in everything but to command this much control... makes it sound like he is about to turn out clothes made for the gods. Its not worth it for the basics he is going to turn out.

 

[Irere]

Him at loro or hermes for example makes sense.

Hedi Slimane’s specialty is clothing that says, “Hey, I’ve been snorting cocaine and giving the bassist head all night” — not exactly what the customers at Hermès and Loro Piana are looking for.

 

[tourbillions]

Hedi Slimane’s specialty is clothing that says, “Hey, I’ve been snorting cocaine and giving the bassist head all night” — not exactly what the customers at Hermès and Loro Piana are looking for.

thats what he wants to style them... but the clothes are pristine and always cut well with very fine materials. But yes not sure how the arabs who love loro will respond to his aesthetic.

All of this only means, its time to retire. any brand who respects their heritage will not allow them to have a copy of the copy of the copy

 

[PDFSD]

Love how this evolved to Hedi's hairline.

i regret to even comment knowing it will go left 🫣 its like talking about women's breast size if the are natural or not.

 

[KoV]

This thread is about to be crazier than ever

 

[PDFSD]

ALL those that pissed on MISS TWEED for just breaking the story first, should go and subscribe to her newsletter as a apology at least for one month 😂

 

[matheus_s]

Just go home and take a nap, dude

 

[Irere]

I’m curious to see if they are really going to use all his visuals with the new creative direction ahead.

My question is, what is the new creative direction now? LVMH finds themselves in the same place as Kering: with a brand that was gutted and remade in the vision of a singular person who then abruptly departs. It’s very strange to go into a Saint Laurent boutique and then walk into a Celine boutique — they look like clones. The websites look nearly identical. It’s taken years for the marketing to differentiate. I’m not sure why Kering is still building those marble-and-chrome stores nearly a decade after Slimane’s departure, but it shows that the brand really hasn’t redefined itself since he turned it inside-out. And the change from Phoebe Philo’s sedate, mature Céline into Slimane’s Celine was even more severe.

I think we’re going to see a Zombie Celine stumbling around, pushing out ersatz Slimanisms for some time the way Saint Laurent did (and still does, to a degree). It takes a brand a long time to recover from Hedi Slimane. He inserts himself, completely takes over every function, erases all past traces of identity, then moves on to a new host, leaving the previous host to wither and die — he’s a parasite.

 

[MulletProof]

i regret to even comment knowing it will go left 🫣 its like talking about women's breast size if the are natural or not.

except there's nothing to talk about it cause it's so obvious!

Hedi is basically a younger Karl, same life, same never-independent career... he WILL go to Chanel.

 

[JohannesL]

How many corporate brands can afford a diva designer like Hedi at this moment? He is either going to launch his namesake label or not going anywhere but concenteating on hobbies. I would be shocked if Chanel needs him more than he needs the brand on his ego trip.

 

[tricotineacetat]

One thing we can say for sure is that he met with the target he was given - That is, to elevate Celine a notch up from where it stood after Phoebe Philo's already successful tenure.

The Phoebe Philo years, although successful, established Celine as a healthy niche label, much like Nicolas achievement with Balenciaga. It made complete sense to install Hedi as the next designer in line as noone else could have in 7 years put all these new categories (menswear, couture, fragrance and cosmetics) on stable feet. Celine is now a very well established and recognized house, added to that without a historic claim to a strong fashion legacy such as Balenciaga, Chanel or Dior.

I want to remind you all that this fashion house used to be one of the troubling cases in LVMH's roster of luxury fashion brands, much like Loewe (which only had Narciso Rodriguez for a brief amount of time) - Michael Kors, Roberto Menichetti and Ivana Omazic all tried their best to put Celine on the map without much success, so when Phoebe Philo took over, she build on a very low revenue.

 

[KoV]

How many corporate brands can afford a diva designer like Hedi at this moment?….. I would be shocked if Chanel needs him more than he needs the brand on his ego trip.

True, but you can’t trust the suits. It’s such an *easy* choice and he’d make concessions for the Chanel gig, downplay his ego. In a way, it’s the path of least resistance. We’ll just have to wait and see. I’m clinging to (false?) hope because I don’t *want* him at Chanel, but…