Hedi Slimane - Designer

[tricotineacetat]

At least with Phoebe she gives people high quality garments, Hedi still uses polyster

In Hedi's defense - I could swear if I cut a Phoebe blazer open to compare it's make with one of Hedi's, I bet the one from Celine will be objectively better-made. I would vouch anytime for a high-end men's tailoring manufacturer to produce better tailoring than any women's supplier.

 

[Lola701]

Sorry I don't know what you mean.

I consider what he does at Celine high fashion for instance like this:
View attachment 1283583

It’s maybe the genius of his talent as a CD/Stylist but this look could have been designed by MGC…

At least with Phoebe she gives people high quality garments, Hedi still uses polyster

There’s such a thing as high quality Polyester and cheap cotton.
Everything depends on a designer attachment to standards. I can be very critical on many things with Hedi but quality is not one of them. And fabric development is a thing in fashion. That’s how we end up with high quality polyester that has sometimes a better quality than natural fabrics because unfortunately, natural fabrics don’t have the same lasting power as they once had. And some fabrics that weren’t in the best quality back then, with technology, are better now.

 

[tourbillions]

natural fabrics don’t have the same lasting power as they once had.

honestly i find some natural fabrics way too demanding in terms of maintenance.

 

[Alquimista]

:-) for fun what makes it not high fashion this show ? curious to know what the definition of high fashion is in this case.

I'm questioning it in relation to the post you replied tbh.

For me both the logo sweatshirt and this look are HF. They're part of the universe created by Hedi where casual modern and classic elegance exist together. It's his curatorial approach to fashion.

Now, none of them are adventurous design wise. It's more about luxury than fashion.

 

[Alquimista]

We're confusing each other here.

Some of you define high fashion as elaborate sort of design, and I understand it as simply high quality luxury.

I agree that Hedi is not doing groundbreaking design, even if I think it's deliberate, he's clearly creating (and selling) that dream of the parisian woman to the world. It's probably the womenswear equivalent to italian tailoring. Lol

 

[tricotineacetat]

It’s maybe the genius of his talent as a CD/Stylist but this look could have been designed by MGC…

Actually have to agree with that, despite the fact I enjoyed the collection upon my initial view - Perhaps more that he referenced this particular period in fashion which happens to be one of my favourites during which Balenciaga, Courrèges, Cardin and Givenchy modernizing fashion with shapes so reduced they still feel modern today, like Mies van der Rohe architecture. He summarized that time perfectly in a well rounded wardrobe, down to the perfect shoes and bags to complete the look.

Either way, I would without doubt consider Nicolas' Balenciaga collection for FW'06 the by far more accomplished one, if put in direct comparison.

 

[Lola701]

We're confusing each other here.

Some of you define high fashion as elaborate sort of design, and I understand it as simply high quality luxury.

I agree that Hedi is not doing groundbreaking design, even if I think it's deliberate, he's clearly creating (and selling) that dream of the parisian woman to the world. It's probably the womenswear equivalent to italian tailoring. Lol

If I take your stance, taking it back to the 70’s/80’s where you had Haute Couture, Designer RTW, Confection (people who wears clothes by their local couturier/seamstress) and RTW by Benetton or whatever.

Everybody at that time uses quality fabrics. What makes the difference between designer RTW, Haute Couture and the rest is the artistic value.

Haute Couture and HF is only defined in that way if there’s an artistic value, courtesy of a Couturier/stylist/designer. The same way, we talk about Gastronomie as opposed to simple « cuisine », because it’s signed by someone who added an artistic value to something.

A sweatshirt by APC is probably similar to a sweatshirt by Celine in terms of quality and execution. So quality isn’t an interesting point of reference.

The same way, Jacquemus is HF despite not being luxury and despite being of below standard quality.

The word « luxury » has been used to define « fashion » since Bernard Arnault became the Grand Maitre of the industry.

Luxury goes with extreme quality, extreme exclusivity and no compromission on standards. But the term luxury can be applied to a car, a pen, socks, shoes or dresses.

The status originally came from exclusivity. Now it comes from the feeling of belonging to a club, through a name and what it represents.

What Hedi is doing is HF because it is signed. His name and his standards are the added value for it. The Artistic value of his work is in the project itself, not in the products. The project is Celine.

 

[tricotineacetat]

If I take your stance, taking it back to the 70’s/80’s where you had Haute Couture, Designer RTW, Confection (people who wears clothes by their local couturier/seamstress) and RTW by Benetton or whatever.

Everybody at that time uses quality fabrics. What makes the difference between designer RTW, Haute Couture and the rest is the artistic value.

Haute Couture and HF is only defined in that way if there’s an artistic value, courtesy of a Couturier/stylist/designer. The same way, we talk about Gastronomie as opposed to simple « cuisine », because it’s signed by someone who added an artistic value to something.

A sweatshirt by APC is probably similar to a sweatshirt by Celine in terms of quality and execution. So quality isn’t an interesting point of reference.

The same way, Jacquemus is HF despite not being luxury and despite being of below standard quality.

The word « luxury » has been used to define « fashion » since Bernard Arnault became the Grand Maitre of the industry.

Luxury goes with extreme quality, extreme exclusivity and no compromission on standards. But the term luxury can be applied to a car, a pen, socks, shoes or dresses.

The status originally came from exclusivity. Now it comes from the feeling of belonging to a club, through a name and what it represents.

What Hedi is doing is HF because it is signed. His name and his standards are the added value for it. The Artistic value of his work is in the project itself, not in the products. The project is Celine.

Thank you for taking your time to sum it up so nicely for everyone, I feel we needed that mentioned on this forum for a good while!

 

[PDFSD]

good luck finding this at Zara :-)

 

[PDFSD]

If I take your stance, taking it back to the 70’s/80’s where you had Haute Couture, Designer RTW, Confection (people who wears clothes by their local couturier/seamstress) and RTW by Benetton or whatever.

Everybody at that time uses quality fabrics. What makes the difference between designer RTW, Haute Couture and the rest is the artistic value.

Haute Couture and HF is only defined in that way if there’s an artistic value, courtesy of a Couturier/stylist/designer. The same way, we talk about Gastronomie as opposed to simple « cuisine », because it’s signed by someone who added an artistic value to something.

A sweatshirt by APC is probably similar to a sweatshirt by Celine in terms of quality and execution. So quality isn’t an interesting point of reference.

The same way, Jacquemus is HF despite not being luxury and despite being of below standard quality.

The word « luxury » has been used to define « fashion » since Bernard Arnault became the Grand Maitre of the industry.

Luxury goes with extreme quality, extreme exclusivity and no compromission on standards. But the term luxury can be applied to a car, a pen, socks, shoes or dresses.

The status originally came from exclusivity. Now it comes from the feeling of belonging to a club, through a name and what it represents.

What Hedi is doing is HF because it is signed. His name and his standards are the added value for it. The Artistic value of his work is in the project itself, not in the products. The project is Celine.

on point allll of it :-) water tight explanation

 

[louis]

View attachment 1283960

good luck finding this at Zara :-)

Indeed beautiful shot…

 

[Alquimista]

If I take your stance, taking it back to the 70’s/80’s where you had Haute Couture, Designer RTW, Confection (people who wears clothes by their local couturier/seamstress) and RTW by Benetton or whatever.

Everybody at that time uses quality fabrics. What makes the difference between designer RTW, Haute Couture and the rest is the artistic value.

Haute Couture and HF is only defined in that way if there’s an artistic value, courtesy of a Couturier/stylist/designer. The same way, we talk about Gastronomie as opposed to simple « cuisine », because it’s signed by someone who added an artistic value to something.

A sweatshirt by APC is probably similar to a sweatshirt by Celine in terms of quality and execution. So quality isn’t an interesting point of reference.

The same way, Jacquemus is HF despite not being luxury and despite being of below standard quality.

The word « luxury » has been used to define « fashion » since Bernard Arnault became the Grand Maitre of the industry.

Luxury goes with extreme quality, extreme exclusivity and no compromission on standards. But the term luxury can be applied to a car, a pen, socks, shoes or dresses.

The status originally came from exclusivity. Now it comes from the feeling of belonging to a club, through a name and what it represents.

What Hedi is doing is HF because it is signed. His name and his standards are the added value for it. The Artistic value of his work is in the project itself, not in the products. The project is Celine.

Okay. Artistic value is too vague and it does that tricky equivalence of art and design. Creative value or design value is better, no?

So HF is the design value , that's what makes it high as opposed to something highly massified or artisanal. I can agree with that. We can use the term for both meanings anyway, both creative and luxury.

But I disagree that the value is not in the products. It's just that he seems to start with the brand and the products should follow his idea of it, not the brand following the product. Hedi conceived the brand and them made the products to fit into that world. He signed them, as you said.

Maybe that's why he would not be good for Chanel. He wants to build brands and Chanel don't need that. Chanel needs design value but not the brand itself, it's the products.

Spoiler

And who can give Chanel that fresh design value? We know the answer

 

[alwaysademo]

it shouldn't be tricky at all if style is your mother tongue. everything he touches has a sleekness to it that is quintessentially French.
Lola did say something about his Saint Laurent showed he did not understand womenswear at the time, that i agreed with.

 

[tourbillions]

View attachment 1283960

good luck finding this at Zara :-)

the campaign or the coat.... zaras campaigns have been very good while the coat im sure was there way before that shot. in fact the heavily discounted racks are always full of huge coats.

 

[PDFSD]

the campaign or the coat.... zara's campaigns have been very good while the coat i'm sure was there way before that shot. in fact the heavily discounted racks are always full of huge coats.

The comment under the pic was a cheeky joke but i will answer you with more profound thoughts:

Zara absolutely can and does hire any top photographers and models and do something close to Hedi style or and other HF mood or vibe, the point is its will always be Zara doing x brand, i personally like things with some authenticity in the way they come about etc also with a point of view and conviction. ( of course everyone should shop where they like or see fit but for me it never attracted me Zara, even as a student i hated it! the whole disposable aspect of it especially, i know plenty of people that find nice things there and they look good or mix it with designer stuff )

Regarding the coat sure Zara had or have huge coats, but it never will be like the original because one: it is simply not brand x (celine etc ) it tries to emulate or it might be mix of a trend , second: the cut and make and point of view expressed in that show is part of a whole idea you buy into.

Sure not every client that shops at Celine care about the concept of the show etc and they just come in for more of same or novelty pieces and keep moving..

Of Course you have people just seeing a adv from Zara or Celine and feel i want a huge coat period!!, but that is what makes fashion such a layered cake, because you will have others that would only want that Celine coat! and not from Zara or even not the one from Herme.

Celine is for me desire, even with Phoebe you want that version of that idea in that moment! zara or other high street fashion brand never gave me that and it's fine as well one way or the other.

I find this running comment of oh you can find it at Zara just the same or better mostly a myth because looking similar still does not make it equally desirable nor will it be the same thing.

not all things are created equal that just how the cookie crumbles

 

[Grets]

If the coat was Zara after 20 minutes of being on the sales floor will be completely ravaged and fallen apart. Hedi or even Phoebe's Celine pieces will last a very long time.

 

[louis]

It’s HEDI SLIMANE birthday today: he turns 56 and I wonder if he’s going to spend the day in Ramatuelle in Côte d’Azur or elsewhere in Paris or even LA!

 

[blueorchid]

Hedi’s super sweet 56.

 

[tourbillions]

i think the genius of hedi's celine is that it lives on peoples imaginations. i couldnt remember any of his shows since he does 1 or 2 per year but the campaigns all over make it feel like he has had a lot of shows and new products to offer. When in reality i cannot identify any of his collections from each other. and with only a few collections per year, he gets to sit and relax most of the time while people live on their campaigns thinking what it could have been.

Visiting the store though... season after season its just reiterations of his basics. cant identify what they're exactly selling, the celine you invisioned from their campaigns is nowhere to be found in stores.

 

[PDFSD]

It’s HEDI SLIMANE birthday today: he turns 56 and I wonder if he’s going to spend the day in Ramatuelle in Côte d’Azur or elsewhere in Paris or even LA!

He will make a photo shoot reportage out of his birthday again :-) or he is preparing his pitch for Chanel project. after all the best revenge/gift is success :-)