Helmut Lang F/W 2019.20 New York

Drooling at the women's line! It's not original in any sense really as we were never going to get that from this resurrection of HL, but I find it all so wearable, classic and effortlessly chic.
 
It is SO GOOD even if it's a little bit too basic for Helmut Lang, but still it's the best collection since Helmut's exit. What's great is that the clothes have that unique feeling of being timeless yet modern and sharp and that's something that was missing during the Colovos' tenure.

The only thing that might be perceived as a problem is that it is so much rooted in the archives, it's like they'd just discovered the f/w 00 collection and wanted to work with that. The s/s 19 wasn't that heavy in that aspect so let's see how it's going to work in the future.

It's quite interesting that Helmut Lang and Helmut Lang Jeans have their creative directors now and they're going to stay there, unlike Shayne Oliver for example. The brand has moved its production to Italy, too so it seems like they are finally treating it like a serious deal. It's quite clever because Helmut and the whole nostalgia of his modernity is getting more and more popular now.
 
I'm torn...
This is the best collection i've seen from HL since 2005 actually. For the first time, this feels very Helmut!
In a weird way, it can be also very Calvin Klein...
I think i miss the precision in the execution but it's good that they finally get that it's better to go through the archives if they can't come with something innovative.

Maybe what i don't like about it is that it's too predictable. The earlier years of Helmut are for me much more interesting to dive in than the 1994/1999 years. Even his stuff from 2000 to 2005 is more interesting.

Why not simply hire an European designer for Helmut Lang?
Anyway, this is a move into the right direction.
 
This collection is not creative at all. Just a "copy/paste" from Lang's best collections. But we're not in 2001. This doesn't feel exciting in 2019...
All least Shayne Oliver twisted his world with Lang's archives, which was interesting, either you like it or not.
 
They got late 90s archives, added a lot of water to it; and then presented this like a big soup of nothingness. Stops your hunger; but doesn´t feed you at all.

Yes, you can tell where this is coming from...but in the same diluted way you can notice at any fast-fashion brand when they copy from any designer, while trying to avoid being sued for it.
 
^Mark Howard Thomas for the main line and Thomas Cawson for the Denim one.
 
This feels more like a collector's closet than a collection. Too referential and heavy for Helmut Lang IMO
 
Helmut Lang is a tricky brand as the dna is very subtle and so attached to Helmut Lang himself. So everything can be very flat quickly and appear as any possible minimalist brand.

They should just do the archives over and over, no show, no lookbook and that's it.
 
Extremely poor. Everything looks like it will end up in a designer consignment shop by next season and will stay there forever. There's no heart in any of these clothes...they just look useless.
 
this looks straight out of the archives to me...
and that's fine...

I think the casting hurts the clothes because these folks don't have the rock m roll swagger that was always present when Helmut was there...
nothing wrong with the clothes though...
the shoes are perfection...

I'm pretty sure I have that long single button Helmut lang blazer in my closet...
in a different fabric...lol...
 

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