Helmut Lang F/W 2023.24 New York

[LadyJunon]

The studio's last collection before Peter Do's appointment:

This collection was presented through a film directed by Paul Bennett along with a two week installation that ran from 11.02 to 23.02.

 

[LadyJunon]

Source: Tagwalk

 

[LadyJunon]

Source: Tagwalk

 

[Phuel]

It's copying Blazy copying Helmut for Bottega LOL It’s desperately trying so hard to be effortless and intellectual with all the unnecessary films/installation/attitude that ultimately just comes off so generic LOL And what a terrible cast, even with the nostalgia-baiting of the one male model that wasn’t even an OG Helmut face. Without Helmut, it was never a success. Just let the brand go.

 

[mepps]

It's copying Blazy copying Helmut for Bottega LOL It’s desperately trying so hard to be effortless and intellectual with all the unnecessary films/installation/attitude that ultimately just comes off so generic LOL And what a terrible cast, even with the nostalgia-baiting of the one male model that wasn’t even an OG Helmut face. Without Helmut, it was never a success. Just let the brand go.

They match the clothes perfectly.

 

[perhydrol]

Anyone could recreate those looks easily with the pieces they already have in their wardrobe. That's how generic this collection is. Thank God they've found Peter Do, maybe he will be able to do something interesting for the brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

Anyone could recreate those looks easily with the pieces they already have in their wardrobe. That's how generic this collection is. Thank God they've found Peter Do, maybe he will be able to do something interesting for the brand.

It's copying Blazy copying Helmut for Bottega LOL It’s desperately trying so hard to be effortless and intellectual with all the unnecessary films/installation/attitude that ultimately just comes off so generic LOL And what a terrible cast, even with the nostalgia-baiting of the one male model that wasn’t even an OG Helmut face. Without Helmut, it was never a success. Just let the brand go.

The collection itself is decent and will sell well. However, everything around it, from the casting to the soundtrack is so pretentiously annoying.

The brand, however, is a mess. The "Helmut Lang" name is a quite valuable name in the industry and the house is doing well commercially, but the house itself is wasting away. In Fast Retailing's portfolio, Helmut Lang is the only company on the higher end of the price spectrum. Theory is contemporary and the rest are mass market brands.

Ever since the Colovos couple left, the house has been trapped in a decade-long limbo of studio led collections halfed by a one-off collection by Shayne Oliver. Peter Do's tenure has the capacity to truly bring Helmut Lang into the limelight, but it needs to have direction and longevity to actually support it

 

[Fulton St Critique]

That blue ribbed dress is TERRIBLE. How did that make the final cut!?!

 

[Benn98]

Looks like a high street collection, but you can see it was designed by a team. A bit all over the place. they should've really honed in on the cowboy focus, which is completely unrelated to womenswear so why do co-ed?

 

[Kennnnn]

It has hints of Helmut Lang, but none of the essence or soul. However, it was a nice surprise to see Sybil Buck close the show

 

[FashionFanatico]

Nice to see Sybil Buck and Scott Barnhill again - even it's quite a forgetable collection.
Both of them still have that special something.