Naoki Takizawa for Helmut Lang Mens F/W 10.11

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by runner, Apr 13, 2010.

  1. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    they put naoki takizawa in charge of the mens design of this line labeled helmut lang.
    F/W 10.11 as the first collection by naoki.
     
  2. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    ....
     

    Attached Files:

  3. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
  4. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    ......
     

    Attached Files:

  5. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    .......
     

    Attached Files:

  6. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    ....
     

    Attached Files:

  7. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    pics from fashionsnap


    .
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2003
    Messages:
    12,969
    Likes Received:
    2
    not quite as sharp as helmut's work was but it certainly has a bit more of an air of 'lang' than what those other two are doing with the women's. definitely a few distinct homages such as the longer tailored coats,the utilitarian elements and the monochrome palette.
     
  9. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,274
    Likes Received:
    262
    I find it a promising start and a very appropriate decision to let someone else design the menswear, with the Colovos' it's really been a neglected side story that was clearly lacking direction and solidity (I wouldn't mind if Takizawa was to take over the women's as well...) - This however looks good, seems to have believable quality and tailoring expertise. My main complaint is that this could have, without a few touches, also been a Jil Sander collection... it misses a bit of a fashion edge that clearly defined the brand, I see some of that in the sweater with military detailing, the perfectos and some of the waistcoats.
     
  10. Scott

    Scott Stitch:the Hand

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2003
    Messages:
    12,969
    Likes Received:
    2
    you can tell that this is a bit timid because he is trying employ the classic elements and it's understandable because helmut for many,including naoki,most likely,was a hero for so many. it is a new endeavour and i really can't wait to see what naoki does down the line because to me at the very least it is a promising beginning and perhaps once he truly wraps his head round this position we will see a fuller embrace of the original aesthetics and signatures.

    i agree with you though..he can take over the women's too,because it has to be better than what's going on there now.
     
  11. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,274
    Likes Received:
    262
    The problem really is that I suppose the women's is doing solid business, it's quite an aggressively-commercial line and a younger target audience than the customer Takizawa is addressing with the men's that has established itself on the retail floor next to other 'hot ticket' designers that are on the list of many buyers at the moment - Rick Owens, Givenchy, Alexander Wang...
     
  12. Inaya

    Inaya vertebrae by vertebrae

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2006
    Messages:
    7,174
    Likes Received:
    5
    I pretty much agree totally with Scott's post (surprise surprise :P )

    +thanks as always runner :winkiss:
     
  13. Over the Sea

    Over the Sea place your body here

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Messages:
    811
    Likes Received:
    1
    I'm not overwhelmed by it, but there are a few nice pieces
     
  14. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2004
    Messages:
    52,690
    Likes Received:
    191
    woah...
    i missed this news...
    :shock:...

    to go from issey miyake to the new HL...
    well...
    i guess i am glad that he has employment...
    and i do like this first effort for the brand...
    i'm a little concerned about some of the funky pants...
    but my guess is they won't make it onto the sales floor...
    i can see echoes of his work at issey...but it's not that...
    it's good...it's helmut lang---but it's still naoki takizawa...

    i do think that a designs like these should hang next to margiela and dries...
    it's real clothes for grown men...
    rather than the trendy designers tric mentioned...
    though i agree that this conflicts with their established market, especially with the womenswear...

    scott- if takizawa could take over for issey...
    i don't think that taking over for the colovos would be too intimidating...
    i mean- we haven't seen helmut's fingerprints on the brand for many years now...
    there is very little of the original dna left, imo...

    it would be nice if takizawa could bring it back...

    and i think that HL was always more of a menswear label when Helmut was designing...
    even the womenswear was often quite masculine/androgynous...

    i'd like to watch and see how this evolves...
    my money is on takizawa...
    this could be a very good fit...

    i just wish they would adjust the womenswear to reflect this sort of attitude...
    rather than overpriced skin tight dresses and jackets that just look like knock offs of rick owens...
    :(...


    i know not one person who used to wear old school helmut lang that currently buys anything from the brand...

    what's the latest news on this?
    how's it doing?
    is he still there?
     
    #14 softgrey, Aug 31, 2011
    Last edited by moderator starrb81477: Aug 31, 2011
  15. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,274
    Likes Received:
    262
    This is the only collection Takizawa designed for Helmut Lang as far as I understood - the men's division was entirely folded after this season and now there's only the Colovos' remaining with the Theory-owned Lang venture.

    It's a pity because I really think Takizawa effortlessly continued that Helmut Lang spirit here, keeping it mature and non-fussy, which to me very much embodies the core values I would expect in a Helmut Lang design - What they are doing on the present womenswear has very little to do with that, but I won't even go there to discuss that in depth, how little of relevance is the so-called 'design'.
     
  16. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2004
    Messages:
    52,690
    Likes Received:
    191
    wow..
    thanks for the update tric...

    what a crying shame!!!...
    you can really see the beginning of something here that is almost already fully formed...

    he really needs an opportunity to do this sort of thing somewhere...
    and the proper support/PR to make it work...
    i wonder if theory wouldn't be a bad place for takizawa actually?
    i could see him updating the menswear at theory quite successfully...
    it's just a question of would he be able to design for that price point and would he be happy doing so...


    **and yeah---we need a whole separate thread for ranting about how the current helmut lang brand has nothing to do with old school helmut...


    :lol:...
     
  17. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    wait :ninja:
    naoki takizawa did S/S 11 at least.
    but I cannot seem to find out if he did F/W 11 and then S/S 12, if he is still there.

    I remember in the paper last year naoki was talking about this project and being a fan of helmut lang himself.
    yohji too mentioned he was a fan of the t-shirts cut by helmut lang and wore them a lot.
    helmut lang was one of those designers loved and worn by designers.



    from HL S/S 11 by naoki, for reference
    naokitakizawa.com
     

    Attached Files:

  18. runner

    runner .

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2004
    Messages:
    12,011
    Likes Received:
    119
    the latest news on the mens line is a shoe designer toshinosuke takegahara did three styles for it.
    the man is famous around here.
    the footwear is available from this fall. I assume it must be well-made.


    I like the shoes
    simple and sturdy

    image from houyhnhnm
     

    Attached Files:

  19. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,274
    Likes Received:
    262

    Perhaps they're keeping it as a Japan-exclusive, at least from what I heard from European Theory/Helmut Lang sales associates, they had mentioned that they are no longer doing the men's line and thus it seems they were concentrating on the womenswear line... you don't even find any archival content or mentioning of any men's activity on the Helmut Lang website. Perhaps you can shed some light on this issue, Runner...?
     
  20. softgrey

    softgrey flaunt the imperfection

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2004
    Messages:
    52,690
    Likes Received:
    191
    thank you runner!
    that s/s 11 look is very nice...
    and so are the shoes...i like them as well...

    don't you all think it's kind of ridiculous that there hasn't been more press about this...?
    it's kind of major...at least it is in my book...
    naoki is a major talent---imo

    :ermm:...

    it's not all that surprising to hear that both he and yohji would wear some helmut lang...
    i remember in the 90's- everyone in the fashion industry---all the cool people---they all had some sort of pieces from helmut that they wore all the time...

    margiela too...some jil sander---
    isn't it crazy---all those designers are gone?...
    and it's all the same customer base...
    what the heck are cool guys supposed to wear these days?!...:judge:...
    :lol:...



    well-i guess there's still dries...:P
     
    #20 softgrey, Sep 2, 2011
    Last edited by moderator starrb81477: Sep 2, 2011

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"