Helmut Lang S/S 2024 New York
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avonlea002
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pretentious and forgettable, he won't stay there for long
It doesn't look good at all. The yellow and magenta are fighting for dominance and the cuts looked so matronly and sexless. No sophistication or sensuality at all.
The presentation was the worst with the models walking in 50 separate directions to philosophical music. Just the models walk single file through a white space in silence.
The presentation was the worst with the models walking in 50 separate directions to philosophical music. Just the models walk single file through a white space in silence.
This poor guy. Visually on the surface it’s there, to the point of it being a copy of a copy. Like a version of a version that got degraded with time. I honestly find it very vacant and it’s worst offense is presenting no desirable outerwear. Helmut had clothes you reaaaaaally wanted because you wanted to look exactly like that person. But who wants to look like middle management moma?
he got an idea of the vibe but no idea of clothes.
he got an idea of the vibe but no idea of clothes.
helmutnotdead
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I’m talking without irony when I say that I felt asleep on the livestream. Imagine being invited and have to wait 45 minutes for that.
Flop!
Flop!
"Some brands need to be left to die an honourable death."
I'm old enough to remember Old Helmut Lang and the anticipation you'd feel each season before he showed. The brand had such strong signatures but Helmut Lang always managed to surprise you with ingenuity, skill, intelligence and wit; to reinvent himself, push himself further, challenge you. The perfect suits (no one has cut a meaner two button single breast since), the perfect jeans, the perfect heel, the Perfect Perfect. And then came the whimsy and craft: controlled decoration, subversive use of colour and materials, exquisite dresses -- trimmed with feathers one season, layered and draped with knit the next, unconventional, defiant, modern and gobsmackingly beautiful. Lang still feels relevant today and casts a very long shadow.
So to say that this offering from Peter Do was sub-par feels almost unfair so it must be judged for what it is -- a somewhat frustrating and hollow show with questionable colour-blocking, gimmicky styling and an over-reliance on Raf Simons own Langian riffs during his Calvin Klein tenure. The big problem here is not what was presented (passable) but what was missing.
A lot.
I'm old enough to remember Old Helmut Lang and the anticipation you'd feel each season before he showed. The brand had such strong signatures but Helmut Lang always managed to surprise you with ingenuity, skill, intelligence and wit; to reinvent himself, push himself further, challenge you. The perfect suits (no one has cut a meaner two button single breast since), the perfect jeans, the perfect heel, the Perfect Perfect. And then came the whimsy and craft: controlled decoration, subversive use of colour and materials, exquisite dresses -- trimmed with feathers one season, layered and draped with knit the next, unconventional, defiant, modern and gobsmackingly beautiful. Lang still feels relevant today and casts a very long shadow.
So to say that this offering from Peter Do was sub-par feels almost unfair so it must be judged for what it is -- a somewhat frustrating and hollow show with questionable colour-blocking, gimmicky styling and an over-reliance on Raf Simons own Langian riffs during his Calvin Klein tenure. The big problem here is not what was presented (passable) but what was missing.
A lot.
Blaiseybabey
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Feels a bit like Raf Simons for CK, don't you think? Just more New Yorkey, less European
Phuel
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LOL OG Helmut is safe from this hideous dressup knockoff
The cast, the styling, the set, the production, the influencers in the audience, the non-stop gimmicks like a 1st-year fashion student production: Nothing feels nor looks sincere, nor possess the presence and ingenuity of a relaxed elegance that was OG Helmut.
It’s such a shame. Because Peter is a capable and skilled tailor and dressmaker. And that’s his strength and experience he should play up on. Not this tiresome gimmick which is neither who he is nor what Helmut is.
The cast, the styling, the set, the production, the influencers in the audience, the non-stop gimmicks like a 1st-year fashion student production: Nothing feels nor looks sincere, nor possess the presence and ingenuity of a relaxed elegance that was OG Helmut.
It’s such a shame. Because Peter is a capable and skilled tailor and dressmaker. And that’s his strength and experience he should play up on. Not this tiresome gimmick which is neither who he is nor what Helmut is.
I feel a little bad for the guy. It's a perfect example of what's wrong with NY fashion designers and NYFW. Too much expectation and PR buzz with zero business experience, defined aesthetic or industry support to build a sustainable career. It's really a death sentence that he agreed to take over this label.
Nimsay
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Very Unserious. Hardly differentiated pieces.
i dont ever remember this super brand helmut lang of yore though. He was in the moment like natalie imbruglia. Like natalie imbruglia we have some cute songs from a time period but it doesnt extend outside that. He like her just didnt have it to create a long lasting career. I agree Helmut shouldve been dropped a long time ago.
people are into helmut now bc the 90s are in. Everyone is trying to do their Blade / Real World Seattle realness. Helmut is that look.
i dont ever remember this super brand helmut lang of yore though. He was in the moment like natalie imbruglia. Like natalie imbruglia we have some cute songs from a time period but it doesnt extend outside that. He like her just didnt have it to create a long lasting career. I agree Helmut shouldve been dropped a long time ago.
people are into helmut now bc the 90s are in. Everyone is trying to do their Blade / Real World Seattle realness. Helmut is that look.
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GivenchyAddict
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At the end it was a good thing that the show happened in NY and not Paris.
susseinmcswanny
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Feels so trite to say but it is getting really really monotonous and boring watching nobody even try to shift just a tad in the other direction from the obvious "WE HAVE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO KEEP SELLING PEOPLE STUFF" mindset
perhydrol
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They really didn't need to hire Peter Do to produce this collection. It was just such an embarrassing show. On a visual level, they used almost every single well-known reference to Helmut Lang, but the show lacked his energy, passion, and freshness of his unique point of view. Instead, we got an extremely inauthentic, joyless, disneyfied version of the archives. If that's the direction Do wants to push for the brand, he'll be out in a year because it's not enough to reestablish the brand. I also think the woman laughing at his idea of changing the logo will be right.
Koibito
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The thing that bothers me is the slogan printed tops. I can’t stop thinking about the “we should all be feminist” infamous tee.
As a Vietnamese, seeing Vietnamese mottos were written on the floor is heartfelt (it feel gimmicky though) but seeing it on the t-shirt is quite cliche, imo.
As a Vietnamese, seeing Vietnamese mottos were written on the floor is heartfelt (it feel gimmicky though) but seeing it on the t-shirt is quite cliche, imo.
Thefrenchy
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I didn't have high expectations but somehow I'm very disappointed.
To me, HL is about the elegance of normality. This feels is just uninspired and flat. When you have access to such wonderful archives, it's shameful to come up with a collection like this. It has a very graduation collection feel to it as well.
So many looks and not a single desirable pieces in sight. I hope he wakes up next season, or I don't see it lasting for so long.
If they wanted to make HL desirable again, it's a miss.
To me, HL is about the elegance of normality. This feels is just uninspired and flat. When you have access to such wonderful archives, it's shameful to come up with a collection like this. It has a very graduation collection feel to it as well.
So many looks and not a single desirable pieces in sight. I hope he wakes up next season, or I don't see it lasting for so long.
If they wanted to make HL desirable again, it's a miss.
Lola701
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I’ve always said that but Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein was more Helmut Lang than Helmut Lang would ever be…
I’m torn by this offering. Tbh I didn’t expect anything because I fail to impress by Peter Do. There are many non-minimalists, non intellectual designers in NYC who has a better cut and better things to show. On the top of my head I think about Phillip Lim who is fabulous, talented and highly underrated.
‘I didn’t expect anything but somehow the PR machine worked on me and I was almost going to read his interview when I saw some images of the collection.
‘Tbh, it’s quite mediocre, very boring, very superficial with a lot of unflattering tailoring (what’s going on with those sleeves and square cuts!). The satin trim gimmick was redundant, the color palette was very 10 years ago minimalism.
the knitwear and FW01 references were kind of OK but overall, I think this is good for the American market maybe.
To push it on the international market…I don’t know.
But then again, this is Helmut Lang for the Gen-Z. I don’t millenials are caring that much about the brand and I don’t think the people who used to wear Helmut are interested in this.
‘Maybe they can re-release the fragrances and launch underwear.
There are far more superior clothes at AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi… and for those who don’t have the budget, COS is highly enough.
I’m torn by this offering. Tbh I didn’t expect anything because I fail to impress by Peter Do. There are many non-minimalists, non intellectual designers in NYC who has a better cut and better things to show. On the top of my head I think about Phillip Lim who is fabulous, talented and highly underrated.
‘I didn’t expect anything but somehow the PR machine worked on me and I was almost going to read his interview when I saw some images of the collection.
‘Tbh, it’s quite mediocre, very boring, very superficial with a lot of unflattering tailoring (what’s going on with those sleeves and square cuts!). The satin trim gimmick was redundant, the color palette was very 10 years ago minimalism.
the knitwear and FW01 references were kind of OK but overall, I think this is good for the American market maybe.
To push it on the international market…I don’t know.
But then again, this is Helmut Lang for the Gen-Z. I don’t millenials are caring that much about the brand and I don’t think the people who used to wear Helmut are interested in this.
‘Maybe they can re-release the fragrances and launch underwear.
There are far more superior clothes at AMI by Alexandre Mattiussi… and for those who don’t have the budget, COS is highly enough.
