Helmut Lang Selvage Denim?

[amblus]

I'm wearing APC right now, I think their "cure" model fits very similar to DH, I'm actually wearing them alot more than DH simply because I'm breaking them in for a couple months. They are not made in Japan, but for a 120 dollars they are 95% DH jeans. You can get them via www.apc.fr If you have any specific questions about APC just ask

are the "cure" jeans dry selvedge? if so, how much have they stretched over the time you've been breaking them in?

 

[Magnum]

Well Dior have had selvedge (mainly the very earliest or something?) I heard, but my jeans and jackets are frayed, so are every DH jeans I've seen I think.
They are still made by old looms and of a very high quality but I don't think they are selvedged. I'm not sure if I really care or not tho, they are just fine the way they are

Ergo, jeans made of old antic looms may or may not be selvedge, so what IS really the deal here?

 

[Fade to Black]

Sorry for carrying this slightly off topic, but since we're on the subject of denim and diors: One thing I've noticed about recent Dior jeans, especially in both variations of the orange overdyes is that the weave seems to be different from regular denim...when i look at the fabric, especially from the inside, the weave is done in a fashion so it looks like arrows like this: >>>>>> <<<<<< instead of the usual diagonal lines. Does anyone know what this technique is called, and what is special about it? Thanks in advance!

 

[Phaeton]

APC jeans are my favorite. I haven't tried on Dior Homme jeans ever, but I'm guessing Slimane sort of ripped off the cut to make his own jeans because he used to wear APCs around everywhere (some scans below from various mags prove this...) APC standard jeans are cut with a higher waist though than HL or Dior, who have both been doing a lot of low rise lately it seems.

(The sources on these are Details, Index, and Maxim magazines, respectively, all from a couple years back.)

 

[Phaeton]

As for being selvedge, here are pictures comparing an APC seam to a Helmut Lang seam from around 1999/2000:

Don't get me wrong though, I own a couple pairs of HL jeans and I love some of his cuts and the earlier washes/treatments that were more subtle (not including the paint splattered ones from the late '90s though!)

Here is a picture of my favorite pair of APCs which I got off eBay for around $30. I was lucky to find them so cheap and already on their way to being broken in. Also I like to find the older pairs that have the bulging, convex button with the violin/bayonet detail, rather than the newer flat ones that say "apc" on them.

 

[amblus]

Sorry for carrying this slightly off topic, but since we're on the subject of denim and diors: One thing I've noticed about recent Dior jeans, especially in both variations of the orange overdyes is that the weave seems to be different from regular denim...when i look at the fabric, especially from the inside, the weave is done in a fashion so it looks like arrows like this: >>>>>> <<<<<< instead of the usual diagonal lines. Does anyone know what this technique is called, and what is special about it? Thanks in advance!

i've not seen Dior jeans, but i think you are referring to denim woven with a broken-twill (as opposed to a one-directional twill). see:

http://www.cone.com/us/denim/denimglossary.html

my understanding is that one-directional twill develops a twist in the fabric, and that broken-twill was invented to prevent this.

 

[AlexN]

My Helmut Lang seams look exactly like the APC seam there.

 

[nqth]

There is a huge denim thread in Shop till ...

http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25860


I also saw the WAD SS05 edition entirely devoted to denim:-) Looks like it is hot "again".

 

[ten100switch]

are the "cure" jeans dry selvedge? if so, how much have they stretched over the time you've been breaking them in?

they are dry selvadge, I also believe I am correct in saying that they have been sanforized so waist shrinkage even after washing should be minimal. Stretching over the course of a month now hasn't been significant at all. I hips are the tightest part in the jean and they have barely stretched out maybe 1%. The knees have stretched the most but it's not much either. They get wear marks (at least from my wallet very easily though).

I wish I could get the serious stiffness back they had when new, I do starch them, is there anything else I can do?

 

[ten100switch]

anyone interested in APC should go to the superfuture.com forums as well there is a thread there with everything you could ever want to know about the style sizing and fit of APC jeans

 

[horriblyjollyjin]

APC's raw jeans look exactly like Helmut Langs', to someone who's only seen HL's in pictures but own a pair of APC's..

The denim A.P.C. use is made for them exclusively on old looms, in Japan - yeah you guessed it, they're selvedge(not all cuts, but most of them).