Hermès S/S 2004 - Paris

[Astrid21]

Originally posted by Fashion Wire Daily@ October 12, 2003 - Paris
Hermès: Margiela's Quiet Finale

By Karl Treacy

No one expected him to go out with a bang, but couldn't Martin Margiela, the faceless Belgian designer at Hermès, have at least made an effort at changing the record ever so slightly?

Due to be replaced by Jean Paul Gaultier, who shows his first collection for the revered French luxury house in March, Margiela bowed out Sunday afternoon in the quietest way possible. There was nothing radically new, no pumping music, no hip wiggling models, just airy, discreetly luxurious clothes.

If Margiela gave a nod to the trend of tie dyeing that's cropping up through the fashion world, it was in skirts with a contrasting lower third that knotted over a similarly shaded skirt. Those shades, by the way, were black, white, rusty vermillion, navy and chocolate.

Despite the lack of an excitement factor, the clothes, as always, were perfect -- and at those prices, they should be! Double-layered sleeveless shirts falling from the same collar tied at the waist, and a rust belted trench was outlined by its white facing.

A white cotton shirt had fine inset strips of red, and thick wooden bangles, a Cape Cod watch, a topless fishing hat or a silver lunula around the neck over a black tunic dress were Margiela's idea of accessoration.

The H logo only appeared twice, in huge diagonal appliqués set into a gilet and zippered jacket in the same rusty vermillion shade. Some looks also came with suede toiletry bags with a little loop handle which, with one strapped black leather travel bag, were the only indications of the luxury leather goods house's bread and butter.

Designer Rick Owens’ French-born partner Michelle Lamy, recently returned to live in Paris, was at the show in the flagship on rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Apart from Owens’ show she has also been to Dior, Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe. Isn't Hermes a little staid then? "I remember the name, of course, from my youth. I grew up with it," she said.

And exceptionally classic and faultless though his collections at Hermes have been, it really does seem time for Margiela to step aside and let someone else allow the label to speak with a different voice.

More red

 

[Astrid21]

 

[Lena]

not his best Hermès collection.. i liked the last two white&red pieces from the second plate, those knot ideas and the cropped trousers, i really dont think so..

thanks astrid for the article and the pictures

 

[Spacemiu]

not teh best for amrgiela, but nice

 

[tealady]

No thanks to the clothes. Thanks for the photos.

 

[ignitioned32]

I still expected better and more inventive ideas.

Thanks, Astrid.

 

[cerfas]

How long did he design for Hermes?anyone?

 

[metal-on-metal]

^ Quite a while. From 1998 to 2004. I think he made much more sense at Hermes than Jean-Paul. Though Margiela could never attract the amount of press and hype JPG does. Back in the Margiela days, Hermes shows weren't even covered on style.com. But I think there was a certain quiet luxury in his clothes that seemed more fitting with the brand.

 

[arlekindearrabal]

^ totally agree

 

[cerfas]

Good information, m-o-m.
Have you any idea if there are threads here on the 98-04 collections (besides this one?) I did a search but it was so overwhelmingly long ...wondered if it was worth the time to search here, or elsewhere. I'm veryvery interested in seeing pictures of these collections!

 

[metal-on-metal]

Here you go, cerfas.

http://firstview.com/alldesigners/Hermes.html

I must say that the clothes may often look plain or downright boring on the runway. But it was the sumptuous, no-holds-barred luxury of the materials that made these clothes amazing. Too bad they are no longer in stores.

 

[kit]

HERMES femme has always had the very best designers , from Christiane Bailly to Eric Bergere . Margiela was the best , a minimalist and an innovator . I suppose Gaultier goes in the opposite direction - not really to my taste . I think the Daumas-Hermes management are extracting as much as they can from Gaulter , to justify their funding of his epomymous house .

It was reported that Jil Sander ws once considered to replace Martin Margiela . Her design philosophy would have been much more fitting to the house's tradition than Jean-Paul's , I think .
HERMES homme has not done at all badly , either , with Thomas Meier , and lately Veronique Nichanian , for the last 12 years or so . She designs the absolutely essential and ultimate French chic for men . Just don't look for fireworks .

 

[cerfas]

I see what you're saying, m-o-m. Thanks for the link!

 

[Diorling]

HERMES femme has always had the very best designers , from Christiane Bailly to Eric Bergere . Margiela was the best , a minimalist and an innovator . I suppose Gaultier goes in the opposite direction - not really to my taste . I think the Daumas-Hermes management are extracting as much as they can from Gaulter , to justify their funding of his epomymous house .

It was reported that Jil Sander ws once considered to replace Martin Margiela . Her design philosophy would have been much more fitting to the house's tradition than Jean-Paul's , I think .
HERMES homme has not done at all badly , either , with Thomas Meier , and lately Veronique Nichanian , for the last 12 years or so . She designs the absolutely essential and ultimate French chic for men . Just don't look for fireworks .

I love Veronique Nichanian, her clothes are just gorgeous. Everything a man like me would love to wear...