Hermès S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[liberty33r1b]

so dull

 

[rip_ian curtis]

This has absolutely NO personality or point of view. The fact that she has been there this long is beyond me. And yes, I understand Hermès wants to be discreet and really dress their customers and show a realistic proposition on the runway, but why does it have to be so damn pedestrian and dated? When Margiela or Lemaire were there it was discreet, realistic and elegant, but it still had a point of view and a ”look”. Plus it looked extremely luxurious and expensive, just like it should at a brand that sells handbags for 50k.

 

[Norden]

Remember when we had the lush luxurious collections from Lemaire? Drenched in story and context, super aspirational, great music at the shows.
This is so far away from that. This collection is truly devoid of redeeming qualities. It all starts with those hideous shoes, on every look! That color palette looks dated as hell and those dresses are terrible, even the simple ones are all united in a terrible length. That print also, that print, it’s awful, like in what backward land is that a good print?

she needs to learn her basics before she graduates to print, or making a collection. This is a crime.

 

[andrew]

this is a bunch of nice looking merchandise, but I can't imagine that's what Hermes wants out of a fashion show.

 

[jeanclaude]

Ferragamo/Bally/Tods/Hermès...one of those brands does not belong in that group...can you guess which one??

 

[yslforever]

Ferragamo/Bally/Tods/Hermès...one of those brands does not belong in that group...can you guess which one??

I'do go for Ferragamo SS23 with Hermès 24/24 mini bags, please.

 

[Frederic01]

Christophe Lemaire was the peak of their ready-to-wear offering in terms of taste and vision, and unless they hire someone on that level in terms of ability, Hermes will be forever doomed to look like some second tier New York fashion week brand.

Clearly though they don't have any desire to be part of the fashion conversation and/or any kind of meaningful cultural dialogue, which is kind of depressing considering how much potential is there in terms of the history and the archives.

Phoebe Philo would have been perfect for Hermes, but alas, it was probably too bourgeois for her. Clare Waight Keller could be interesting too.

 

[Lola701]

When even Pierre Hardy’s shoes are bad, you know the Hermes show was terrible. You got to respect Hermes…Nobody goes to the show for the show or to even have some types of interest. It’s all politics, just like the « game » some of their « poor » customers force themselves to play in order to get a Birkin or a Kelly.
It’s a pity that those customer doesn’t care about other categories of the maison or that Hermes doesn’t have a good enough CD that would design clothes that are actually desirable.
With desirable clothes, no game to play. People comes and buys the stuff. Sells grows and everybody is happy.

I take Bally and Tod’s over this mess.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Why is Hermes turning into Kooples??

 

[vetements]

Christophe Lemaire was the peak of their ready-to-wear offering in terms of taste and vision, and unless they hire someone on that level in terms of ability, Hermes will be forever doomed to look like some second tier New York fashion week brand.

Clearly though they don't have any desire to be part of the fashion conversation and/or any kind of meaningful cultural dialogue, which is kind of depressing considering how much potential is there in terms of the history and the archives.

Phoebe Philo would have been perfect for Hermes, but alas, it was probably too bourgeois for her. Clare Waight Keller could be interesting too.

Whilst I agree with your other points, I have to say that Clare's tenure at Givenchy was also a bunch of very easy on the eyes, pretty clothes that has no personality unfortunately.

I think Hermes is a house where the designer can afford to not follow "house codes" and perfectly get away with it, yet the current designer is not doing anything to that effect. It is nice but bland, and lacking a certain punch to her collections.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

She is so boring that she made me want Rick at Hermès to shake things up and have fun.

(Plus Rick at Revillon was fab!)

 

[THD96]

I know she is comfortable and the company doesn't push her but please elevate it when you are doing a show.

Hermes doesn't care if they are no longer being a part of the fashion conversation anymore, they are a well-oil machine that doing great with the aura of the bags. And the strategy that they used the bags to sell to other departments continues to work so unless those bags become demodé again I don't think the company will push the fashion department anytime soon.

She is so boring that she made me want Rick at Hermès to shake things up and have fun.

(Plus Rick at Revillon was fab!)

I think it could do wonders for the brand. Nobody thought JPG can do Hermès since they are like a world apart, fashion enfant terrible and a bourgeoise house that could never work but somehow it was the best year Hermès ever had.

 

[Beun]

I know she is comfortable and the company doesn't push her but please elevate it when you are doing a show.

Hermes doesn't care if they are no longer being a part of the fashion conversation anymore, they are a well-oil machine that doing great with the aura of the bags. And the strategy that they used the bags to sell to other departments continues to work so unless those bags become demodé again I don't think the company will push the fashion department anytime soon.



I think it could do wonders for the brand. Nobody thought JPG can do Hermès since they are like a world apart, fashion enfant terrible and a bourgeoise house that could never work but somehow it was the best year Hermès ever had.

Wasn't Margiela the best Hermes designer?

 

[Lola701]

Wasn't Margiela the best Hermes designer?

Gaultier was…IMO at least.
The strength of Gaultier was that he dressed Couture clients, who bought Hermes bags and accessories so his clothes were cohérent to the existing clientele but also attracted a new clientele. And I loved how he really introduced dressmaking at Hermes. He added a touch of sexiness too. I really think that Gaultier’s work for Hermes was his best RTW in the 2000’s.

Margiela was great, inventive and minimal but it was really timeless basics and very bourgeois in a way. The idea of Margiela at Hermes made people from the industry in a broad sense pay more attention to the fashion but it was more appreciated when the minimalist wave came back in 2010.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ It’s not not cool to praise Gaultier even though he was by far the most versatile and untouchably creative for Hermes. He brought such a force of personality and theatricality to the presentations and branding, and still structured the building foundation with classical, solid, hugely covetable luxury. Hermes' atelier and master craftsman brought out the best in Gaultier and Gaultier gave Hermes such unapologetic decadence in return.

If only she balanced the conservative merchandise on display here with a touch of dramatics and flair. The brand can spare the extra expanses for a handful or two of some decadence: Some dramatic coats/jackets/dresses and even more whimsical accessories/bags. Something to push the wallflower and let loose just a bit. That she even has the looks color-coordinated like a gradient scale is hilariously boring— like it’s put together by AI LOL