History of John Galliano

[eugenius]

Madonna in Galliano/Givenchy @ the Evita premiere/1996 (source:madonna-online.ch)

 

[martinel]

yeah
I just uploaded all to a public photobucket account

click photo to view the entire show.

ss 85
credit to catwalking.com

How can I have access to this account?
It doesn't work!
Are there any other albums where the collections have been saved?

 

[MissMagAddict]

source | wwd.com

​

Galliano: Downfall of a Couturier

PARIS — A fashion giant has fallen.

Paris Fashion Week gets under way today under shock. Christian Dior ousted its star couturier, John Galliano, on Tuesday amidst mounting allegations he uttered anti-Semitic insults and an explosive video depicting him saying, “I love Hitler.”

The dismissal marks one of the most dramatic designer flameouts in recent history, and interrupts a spectacular career, robbing fashion of one of its greatest showmen.

It will surely spark debate about whether the 50-year-old British iconoclast will be able to rebound from the taint of anti-Semitism, overcome what appears to be alcohol addiction and rehabilitate his image to resume working in fashion.

It could also set in motion a reshuffling of designers at the highest levels of international fashion, as one of the most coveted and high-profile jobs in Paris is suddenly up for grabs.

It is understood that Dior — reeling from Galliano’s fall from grace within the space of a week — has yet to turn its attention to the delicate issue of succession and, in a sign of continuity, plans to go ahead with its fall fashion show slated for Friday in a tent erected in the gardens of the Musée Rodin here.

Sources said it has yet to be decided if Sunday’s show for the John Galliano line will go ahead. Meanwhile, Galliano’s Italian licensing partners are said to be reeling in the wake of the crisis and uncertainty about that brand’s future.

The final straw for Galliano — the target of two complaints to Paris police of racist and anti-Semitic remarks — was an amateur video depicting the designer, plainly inebriated, hurling expletives and insults, including references to people being “gassed.”

Natalie Portman, a face for Christian Dior Parfums, issued a statement Tuesday morning saying she was “shocked and disgusted” by the amateur video, obtained by British tabloid The Sun and circulated around the world. Its genesis and circumstances remain a mystery.

“As an individual who is proud to be Jewish, I will not be associated with Mr. Galliano in any way,” Portman said. “I hope, at the very least, these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful.” She made no mention of Dior.

Hours later, Dior said it had commenced termination procedures in the wake of the “deeply offensive statements and conduct by John Galliano” portrayed in the video.

“We unequivocally condemn the statements made by John Galliano, which are in total contradiction to the long-standing core values of Christian Dior,” Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture, said. He declined to comment further.

According to sources, Galliano is expected to issue a statement today.

Photos of a pale and shell-shocked Galliano arriving at a police station in the Marais to meet his accusers were splashed all over newspapers around the world on Tuesday, often sharing the front page with stories about mounting pressure on Libyan leader Muammar Gadhafi to step down.

Galliano spent Monday afternoon at the station as part of an ongoing police investigation into claims he uttered anti-Semitic and racist remarks in separate altercations at trendy Paris cafe La Perle, last Thursday night and last October.

The designer claims he never uttered any racist or anti-Semitic slurs, furnished witness statements to back his case and subsequently filed a claim of defamation, insult and menace against Géraldine Bloch, 35, and her companion at the cafe, Philippe Virgiti, 41. The couple claimed Galliano’s insults included “dirty Jewish face” and “Asian bastard.”

Under French law, the penalty for defamation can be one year in prison, a fine of 45,000 euros, or $61,884 at current exchange, or both. For insult, the sentence may be six months imprisonment and a fine of 22,500 euros, or $30,942, or one of those penalties.

A spokeswoman from the prosecutor’s office on Tuesday confirmed the police inquiry into the Galliano case has not yet been wrapped up.

“I think there are still some people to hear,” she continued, adding she believes the legal process will be rather quick, without giving a specific timeline.

The ouster of a designer who has left an indelible mark on Dior — and on the history of fashion — left designers, editors and retailers stunned and saddened.

Many were puzzled by the incongruity of Galliano’s warmhearted, polite disposition and the vile pronouncements captured on camera. Others deemed his behavior and words scandalous and damaging to the industry.

In a posting on the Vogue Italia Web site, editor in chief Franca Sozzani wrote: “I am against and I condemn any kind of racism or any behavior that shows disrespect toward any religion.”

 

[MissMagAddict]

....

But she also lashed out at the people who filmed a plainly inebriated Galliano, whose speech was slurred. “If you are truly fighting with someone, you don’t have time to pick up a mobile phone, turn on the video giggling and mockingly film what he is saying,” Sozzani wrote. “I’m just as disgusted by these people who saw what state John was in and took advantage of the situation by trading on his name and notoriety. While I condemn John’s words, I think they were said in a certain moment when he wasn’t lucid. I am frightened by how quick these young people were to try to gain notoriety or money while destroying the image of a genius.”

Joan Burstein, owner and founder of Browns in London, and a longtime supporter who bought Galliano’s entire graduate collection in 1984, said, “I am deeply saddened by the fact that John Galliano has been dismissed. I hope that I have the opportunity to see him face-to-face, as I have no comment to make until I am told the truth by him.”

“All I can say is that he was and is a brilliant designer, and I hope that fashion will have some memories,” said Maria Luisa Poumaillou, fashion director at Printemps. “Everyone is sad, and the only thing I’m certain of is that he did an amazing thing for Dior and he gave so much pleasure. I will miss him a lot.”

Alexandra Shulman, editor in chief, British Vogue, said, “I think Galliano made a terrible mistake and such offensive behavior could not be ignored. It is all the same true that he has a huge talent and has contributed enormously to the resurrection of the house of Dior.”

Patricia Field sent an e-mail blast to 500 friends, blogs and media on Tuesday in support of Galliano. In a phone interview, she described the designer’s controversial video as “farce” and said she was bewildered that people in the fashion community have not recognized it as such.

“People in fashion, all they do is go and see John Galliano theater every season. That’s what he gives them. To me, this was the same,” she said. “But people in fashion don’t recognize the farce in it. All of a sudden they don’t know him. But it’s OK when it’s Mel Brooks’ ‘The Producers’ singing ‘Springtime for Hitler.’ ” Field said Galliano was “acting out a character.”

Franco Penè, chief executive officer of Gibò Co. SpA, which produces the John Galliano men’s and women’s collection, urged that justice should be allowed to take its course. However, he added, “Neither I nor anyone in the company has ever seen anti-Semitic behavior from Galliano, nor was there any inkling ever of anti-Semitism in his attitude.”

Karl Lagerfeld, meanwhile, came out swinging.

“I’m furious, if you want to know. I’m furious that it could happen, because the question is no longer even whether he really said it. The image has gone around the world. It’s a horrible image for fashion, because they think that every designer and everything in fashion is like this,” Lagerfeld said. “This is what makes me crazy in that story.

“The thing is, we are a business world where, especially today, with the Internet, one has to be more careful than ever, especially if you are a publicly known person. You cannot go in the street and be drunk — there are things you cannot do,” he continued. “I’m furious with him because of the harm he did to LVMH and [chairman and ceo] Bernard Arnault, who is a friend, and who supported him more than he supported any other designer in his group, because Dior is his favorite label. It’s as if he had his child hurt.”

A club kid from South London via Gibraltar, Galliano hit the international fashion radar right out of the starting blocks upon graduation from Central Saint Martins. With his theatrical flair and romantic inspirations of epic proportions, Galliano immediately became one of the darlings of editors and retailers, famous for his bias-cut gowns, innovative tailoring and a cheeky, streetwise edge.

Commercial success didn’t come as easily. Based in London early in his career, Galliano struggled throughout the Eighties and early Nineties, with a succession of backers. He had to close his business three times after they withdrew their financing because of slow sales growth.

Still, his technical virtuosity and knack for making fashion headlines attracted the attention of Arnault, who tapped him in 1995 to succeed Hubert de Givenchy upon his retirement, moving the British maverick to Dior a year later. “Mr. Arnault is a true visionary to put someone like myself in my position,” Galliano told WWD in an interview in 2007. “Many houses have copied that since.”

At Dior, he succeeded a string of legendary design talents: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan and Gianfranco Ferré.

Galliano quickly woke up the brand with his bravado, a broad spectrum of fashion expression and a soaring imagination.

He has characterized his shows around 1999 and 2000 as “rupture” moments for Dior, including the so-called “Matrix” couture collection that announced a tough-chic moment, and a hip-hop flavored, Lauryn Hill-inspired show that arrived at the onset of logo mania. He has also sent trailer park babes, bruised boxers and rockabilly types down Dior’s ready-to-wear runway.

His signature collections have been no less spectacular, from Bollywood beauties dusted in colored powders to a charming, oddball parade of childlike cardboard floats and clothes deliberately too big for the models.

During his early years at Dior, Galliano had a broad creative purview that extended to advertising and the Dior Parfums beauty division. In a 1997 collaboration with photographer Nick Knight, he had Brazilian bombshell Gisele Bündchen in a sweaty, sexy entanglement with model Rhea Durham, prompting cries of lesbian chic.

“That was really, you could say, the beginning of full-throttle forward,” Galliano recalled in the 2007 interview. A few seasons later, Bündchen was sweating again in a Dior campaign, this time also smeared with grease, fixing an old Cadillac.

Since 2007’s suit-driven “back-to-basics” collection, Galliano has churned out more ladylike and commercial rtw, and ratcheted up references to Dior icons, like the bar jacket, equestrian looks, English men’s wear fabrics and the color gray.

In tandem, Dior diminished the profile of Galliano’s fashion campaigns, funneling investments into more “institutional” communication, notably a multiyear print and cinema campaign backing the perennial Lady Dior bag featuring Oscar-winning actress Marion Cotillard.

 

[MissMagAddict]

....

Still, the couture image of Dior, masterminded by Galliano, is crucial across the company, including the powerhouse Dior Parfums, part of LVMH.

Galliano’s famous inspiration trips to India, China, Japan, Turkey, Egypt, Middle Europe and within France brought rich rewards to his audience — and created some of the most arresting fashion show imagery the industry has ever seen. The designer’s immersion into the story lines behind his collections — be it the hidden life of Wonder Woman, the soirees of the Marchesa Casati or the paintings of Clovis Trouille — was absolute, which is what made his shows unmissable and memorable.

Galliano’s ouster, which comes about a year after the suicide of Lee Alexander McQueen, could usher in an era of toned-down fashion shows, as designers came under pressure during the economic downturn to trim budgets.

Dior has been taking a minute-by-minute approach to the fast-evolving crisis to protect its $1.1 billion fashion franchise, and safeguard Arnault’s most treasured fashion property.

Shares in Christian Dior SA, the publicly traded holding company for the Dior fashion house and luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, ended up 0.2 percent in trading Tuesday on the Paris Bourse to close at 104.65 euros, or $144.25, while shares in LVMH rose 0.9 percent to 115.30 euros, or $158.93.

“As far as Dior is concerned, I wouldn’t worry too much. It won’t be difficult for them to find new talent — it’s every designer’s dream to create for Dior,” said Luca Solca, a senior analyst with Bernstein Research in Zurich. “And I don’t think Galliano’s comments will damage the brand. It is important for Dior to choose the right creative director — and it will definitely be a breath of fresh air. This has also been free advertising for the brand.”

Widely touted contenders for the Dior couture mantle include Hedi Slimane, who walked away from Dior Homme in 2007; Givenchy’s star couturier, Riccardo Tisci, or red-hot Haider Ackermann.

Toledano has been leading an upscaling drive at Dior in recent years, in its products, stores and marketing. The strategy has been gaining traction. Revenues grew 15 percent in 2010 to 826 million euros, or $1.1 billion, while profits vaulted 169.2 percent to 35 million euros, or $46.5 million, as reported.

Branding and other experts said Dior is likely to rebound from the crisis, especially at a time when large luxury players have put their brands ahead of their star designers.

Sara Rotman, creative director and owner of MODCo Creative, likened Dior without Galliano to Gucci without Tom Ford. She said at first, “I think we all held our breath and thought, Oh my God, how is that going to work? And there was a season when it was a little bit tentative, and I think that they’ve come back strong.”

She characterized Galliano as “one of the few geniuses really left in our field.…But I think that the houses are getting really smart about it and soldiering on. I mean, when we lost McQueen, I thought the same thing — My God how are they going to make it? — but the first collection without him is actually quite strong. So I think the houses have a pretty good sense of who they are, and I think it took an enormous amount of strength of character for [Dior] to ask [John Galliano] to step down.”

“As we witnessed with Kate Moss’ past transgressions, brands must quickly remove themselves from the negative publicity,” said Meg Asaro, cultural curator at brand image developer Toniq. “Dior is a strong brand with a long-standing lineage. Therefore, it will easily rise above this speed bump in its path. Look at Martha Stewart, a brand whose identity is that much closer [to the founder] than that of John Galliano and Dior. Martha Stewart bounced back, and so will Dior — but much quicker.”

The John Galliano business, based on a licensing model, has also been on a growth track, but it is more intricately linked to the madcap designer, and is majority controlled by Dior.

Immediate fallout included the scuttling of a Galliano fragrance launch event scheduled for Germany next week, according to sources.

Public relations experts were divided on whether Galliano could emerge from the crisis to resume what had been a stellar fashion career.

“I think Galliano needs to justify what he’s done,” said Max Clifford, a London-based p.r. and damage-control expert. “He needs two or three Jewish friends to come forward and tell the public that he is not remotely anti-Semitic in all the years they have known him. Or he has to say it was meant to be a funny rant, or that he was just trying to annoy to the people sitting next to him.”

Asked if a public apology would help, Clifford said not necessarily: “In a perfect p.r. world it would, but then look at Mel Gibson. He apologized and it did not enhance his career; nor did it destroy it.”

Moira Benigson, managing partner at the London-based executive search firm The MBS Group, said an apology should have come sooner. “Had he done so, his experience would have been a walk in the park compared to Tiger Woods, for instance.” As for Galliano’s future, she said: “I don’t know what state of mind he’s in right now, but I am sure that someone will snap him up. This will definitely not cause long-lasting damage. Galliano is so important to the industry, and he has so many friends and supporters who will stand by him.”

Ilaria Alber-Glanstaetten, ceo of the London branding consultancy Provenance, said the designer “needs to be extremely repentant, check himself into rehab for addiction and anger management, and lay low for a long time. It’s true that a lot of people do come back from scandals, but there have not been mistakes of this kind before. Honestly, I don’t know if people can stand by those who make statements of the kind that Galliano made.”

Karen Harvey, ceo of Karen Harvey Consulting Group, said Galliano “would need to make major changes on a personal level if he wanted to have a future in the business. I don’t think these things are ever truly forgotten — especially this case.”

 

[chloehandbags]

Many were puzzled by the incongruity of Galliano’s warmhearted, polite disposition and the vile pronouncements captured on camera. Others deemed his behavior and words scandalous and damaging to the industry.​

Let's face it, some really nice people are just horrible drunks.

Most of us mellow-out (most of the time!), if anything, when we drink - but some people just tend to get angry and irrational, for some reason?

Should the people who do be judged more harshly than the rest of us, when it is, ultimately, just an involuntary chemical reaction, over which they have no control (other than not to drink, at all)?

My mother knew someone who believed in giving her very young son (only 5 or 6 years old!) wine with his meal, if she was having it (I know, I know...).

Apparently, sober, he was the nicest, quietest, kindest, gentlest little boy imaginable, but as soon as he'd had a little wine, he became an absolute nightmare; screaming, shouting, swearing, punching, kicking and generally being completely abusive to everyone around him.

This child was far too young to have had much in the way of 'baggage' and as far as I know, he had no reason to want to attack his mother's female friends; so this is, clearly, just illustrative of the adverse chemical reaction alchohol can cause in some people's brains.​

 

[AD122915]

i think it was a set-up... what a coincidence Galliano was recorded sayin that stuff n random people happened 2 b around recordin that particular part of his speech... Dior hired Galliano, sucked him up lyk a vampire n got super rich n famous than ever n then they wanna 2 get rid of him when he's no good, just like Gucci got rid of Tom Ford... n now they got a reason... disgrateful but cruel just lyk fashion world... behind all that glitter it shows how people are superficial n shallow.. when you're on top, everybody's your friend, but when you're down.. you're there by yourself n ur friends dont know u (natalie comment).. n Galliano put the bar way 2 far even for himself... now he gotta pay :-///

 

[angel222]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-h-C9wY2rM

John younger was spanish handsome!

 

[lady stardust]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w-h-C9wY2rM

John younger was spanish handsome!

so young and beautiful and so full of life..
thank you for sharing that video.

 

[ellieleewee]

i was never a fan of john galliano for dior, but his signature label was marvelous and he is very talented regardless what he said. i'm going to miss him in the fashion industry.

 

[CholoChic]

Galliano mark us our lifes
he filled it of color, madness, spectacle,
music and beauty, beauty!!

I love him and will love him!

 

[Zazie]

Wow, his earlier creations are jaw-droppingly gorgeous - it makes his recent Dior collections all the more puzzling, as if he's given up experimenting.

As for the drunken rave, it is so common to hear racist tirades outside bars and in the streets from sad alcoholics - they all have a problem, mainly with addiction, but I won't automatically judge them as racist - anyone's basest character can surface when inebriated. I won't be surprised if Galliano made some other horrendous remarks to other white persons during one of these drunken rages.

Until he explains himself and we get to hear both sides of the story, I'm surprised by how hastily he has been judged a racist by celebrities like Natalie Portman. We need to hear if he has been racist towards others in sobriety. To issue a statement such as hers would indeed seal Galliano's fate - she scares me!

Even if Galliano indeed has been racist, I would hope that he is given a chance at redemption and atonement. This to me beats damnation, where no good would come out of a terrible situation.

 

[papillote]

Elle.fr has put amazing pictures online ! See them here
*EDIT* : Well not so amazing but a recap of his apperances after the Dior shows.

 

[AD122915]

Wow, his earlier creations are jaw-droppingly gorgeous - it makes his recent Dior collections all the more puzzling, as if he's given up experimenting.

As for the drunken rave, it is so common to hear racist tirades outside bars and in the streets from sad alcoholics - they all have a problem, mainly with addiction, but I won't automatically judge them as racist - anyone's basest character can surface when inebriated. I won't be surprised if Galliano made some other horrendous remarks to other white persons during one of these drunken rages.

Until he explains himself and we get to hear both sides of the story, I'm surprised by how hastily he has been judged a racist by celebrities like Natalie Portman. We need to hear if he has been racist towards others in sobriety. To issue a statement such as hers would indeed seal Galliano's fate - she scares me!

Even if Galliano indeed has been racist, I would hope that he is given a chance at redemption and atonement. This to me beats damnation, where no good would come out of a terrible situation.

completely agree on Natalie... While her comments about antisemitism were correct (how racism is still around nowadays), there was no need to express that opinion... especially from her. Everybody knows the crimes on jews, especially Holocaust and it was more like preaching to the choir - unnecessary... As you have said expressing such view from somebody like her was very unprofessional... especially when she's face of Dior perfumes... IMO anybody who's the face of the brand represents the brand and has an influence of spokesperson so it felt like Dior was judging Galliano itself.. She should has stayed silent and not make comments and leave her thoughts to herself... Galliano was on the covers of worldwide magazines and obviously everybody shared her opinion.. moreover, look who's talking... did you guys notice Natalie's boyfriends? do you honestly think she would date a black or arab guy? And she's calling Galliano racist? I guess 'it's her turn' now (Black swan). As I said, in fashion when you're on top - everybody wanna be your friend... when you're down - NOBODY knows you.. it's same with models, they come and go 2 quickly.... and as you said people like Natalie will seal Galliano's fate... he MADE fashion and imo he IS the best designer EVER... but now it can take a decade for him to make a comeback!!! (just like Tom Ford)

 

[iluvjeisa]

I expect Natalie said what she did mostly because she was instructed to publically support LVHM's decision. So I'm sure it was a very professional statement.

 

[get fashion]

I think a part of every fashion lover goes with him

 

[Littleathquakes]

I don't really care, even if he is a true blooded racist, you can't deny his talent. that's something no one will ever take away from him. and I will always think highly of him as an inspiration and trailblazer.

 

[AD122915]

I expect Natalie said what she did mostly because she was instructed to publically support LVHM's decision. So I'm sure it was a very professional statement.

have 2 agree on that.. but it only shows what a sell out she is...
If Galliano was really that much against jews, do you honestly think he would make Natalie face of Dior perfumes?

 

[Zazie]

I agree too, StrikingFashion. iluvjeisa, I seriously doubt that Portman made a professional statement - it is more likely a personal one, apparently she seems to suggest she is speaking for every "Jewish person". I don't even think that every "proud Jewish person" feels as strongly about Galliano as Portman. I'm sure there are others who are more generous and forgiving. There is a law to punish Galliano, and he is already punished. I feel that making such a statement in public from such a well-known celebrity is taking the punishment much further, to ostracize Galliano completely. Associating with Galliano now means you're "anti-Semitic", since Jewish people and their supporters will cut him off. Say, if he has committed some other crime, eg. assault, steal, etc., he will be punished for the crime, but he won't be subject to pariah status.

The tirade is awful and hateful, but I hear this stuff all the time about Jews, Asians, Muslims, Hispanics, fat people, women as "b*tches", etc., from street alcoholics. They pick a trait of their intended victim and just reel off in the vilest way possible. They are taking their frustrations out on minorities and it is loathsome, but I wouldn't necessarily condemn them to public hell and to be shunned by society. I don't feel that it solves racism, it's much better for Galliano to find a way to atone for his racist tirade and reconcile with those he insulted. Better for the Jewish community to win over a repentant.

That said, Galliano's hubris is legendary - it is good that he is taken down a notch or two, hopefully, he is ashamed and will do something about his personal problems.

 

[papillote]

KK Nardi posted an article and they say

Fascinated by history, if more recently drowning in references to the past, Mr. Galliano at his best would reference exotically fashionable women like the Parisian hostess Misia Sert or the Marchesa Luisa Casati, as painted by Giovanni Boldini.

Anybody knows about Misia Sert inspired collections/outfits ? Would love to see it !