J.W. Anderson Mens S/S 2016 London

[george5]

 

[george5]

 

[george5]

pics from style.com

 

[TheoG]

Not crazy about this -- there appears to be more than one idea general idea. But then again its J.W., his extremely cryptic. I do like the slight Asian influence.

But the footwear, especially the red & black shoes... No thanks.

 

[Cosmic Voices]

I actually like this. It's much better - imo of course - than his womenswear line.
Those pleated denim trousers are to die for!

 

[Nomar]

I really like this! Must better than his last mens collection that's for sure. I love the shade of blue and those pants look so comfy.

 

[Lola701]

As a woman who likes menswear, i have some doubts about JW Anderson menswear.
It is so hard for me to get what he is doing at his own brand. I like when mens designers embodied their own fashion.
His own style may be very boring/basic, he doesn't even look like he can pull off his own clothes (and we know since that infamous magazine cover that he can't) so i can't appreciate totally this collection.

Generally, his Loewe work is better.
Horrible pants and shoes.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

very heavy anime references going on in this collection. i love this

 

[perhydrol]

I like it. I wouldn't wear every piece, but some are really beautiful and striking to me- like that sheer top with feathers.I have a big problem with the shoes, they look like those "selfie-shoes" but shoes are always the weakest part of his shows.

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

I can see some nice pieces

 

[Pricciao]

I wonder how you guys get Asian or anime feeling about it, can you point out the details? I genuinely don't see it.
As he said about Zen-like clothing. Yeh right, zen must be really colorful in his eyes. It would be more interesting if he said he's into Gameboy or word games in the newspaper these days.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

That semi-sheer nude top with the melted silvery shape on it....why.

 

[jescajade]

LOVE this, the silhouettes are great, wouldn't mind one of those knits (look 6, 25) myself! Anderson's own label is getting stronger by the season, since LVMH started backing him.
I can see the 'zen-like' quality to the collection, personally I saw a lot of Star Wars references, which makes sense given the new movies hype.

 

[Phuel]

I wonder how you guys get Asian or anime feeling about it, can you point out the details? I genuinely don't see it.
As he said about Zen-like clothing. Yeh right, zen must be really colorful in his eyes. It would be more interesting if he said he's into Gameboy or word games in the newspaper these days.

The Japanese influences are in the pleated full pants which look Kendo in reference, as are the kimono wrap-style shirts, along with the huge graphic shapes of the patterns.

But whatever dignified Japanese reference he may have had initially is completely mangled by his ham-fisted attempts at once again, resurrecting mall-fashion from 1984 to appear hip. The high-waisted, multi-pleated, peg-legged pants and the V-shaped, oversized muscle-shirt are a total rip-off of that year but blown into costume-proportions taking them into fashion-caricature territory-- like how some people instantly think linebacker-shoulders and the little leather-minis represent the 80s. At least when Kris Van Assche did the multi pleats, it was an attempt at elegance and appropriately modern. At least when Hedi references the 1980s, he's able to wrangle in a variety of looks of the era into a cohesive collection. This guy only has one look. And there's nothing boundary-breaking, progressive or even remotely modern about this guy's designs like he wants you to think it is. Just desperately contrived, sloppily retro-- and very limited in creativity.

The type of male customer that are into androgynous fashion are already buying and wearing women's fashions and mixing it with menswear-- why would they care for his versions of womenswear-for-men?

The look on the men seated in the front row on the right, particularly the bald guy with the beard and glasses, says it all. At least Jeremy Scott's Moschino doesn't take itself seriously...

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

^the references are pretty blatant especially in the styling. the look with the orange jacket in post #3, the red shoes, the cropped trousers and then the most obvious are the samurai jackets.

Its more 80s-90s references like Akira and even Gundam Wing but you can see it in more recent shows like Hunter x Hunter and Saiyuki.

 

[Pricciao]

^^ About the pleats, I'm sensing it's about Issey Miyake? Issey is avant garde, meaning he's taking inspirations from everywhere, not a very traditional east culture thinking person. I hardly can say he's core representative of the Japanese mind, or Asian thinking in that way. Like Ang Lee, people say about how beautiful he brings the east aesthetic into hollywood movies, uh no, he brings Ang's aesthetic into big screens.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Issey's designs may have been modern and progressive, but the core of his aesthetic was always classical Japanese-- down to the stone or bamboo-shaped bags he would present. The wide-legged, multi-pleated, high-waisted pant is very classical Japanese by design.

The anime is an excellent point, TREVO. But unlike Gaultier or Ghesquiere, who are visionary spellbinders that are able to effortlessly meld references seamlessly, this guy may have an interesting idea-- but his execution is so clunky, sloppy and one-note, it's charmless.

 

[Pricciao]

I guess we have very different aspects about it, won't argue about that. I'd say I rather not know if Jonathan takes Japanese elements in this collection, cause it's nowhere to be seen to me.

 

[gazebo]

 

[elle_gb]

He's the hottest designer at this moment.