velvetandsilk
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- Aug 26, 2020
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Share with us... Your Best & Worst Collections of S/S 2025
What’s Gaultier’s core audience in 2021? We literally saw how the brand gradually disappeared in a decade. I remember that Gaultier was one of those designers like Sonia Rykiel who had boutiques in several major cities in France. It all shut down and the same for his distribution around the world...I don't hate it but it's just feel on the surface. It's like Gaultier introduction 101. It's may work for IG generation but I don't think this will connect with his core audience.
Maybe JPG need to choose designers with stronger direction. Imagine Phoebe for Gaultier or Marc even CWK could do with the JPG archive.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, that bourgeois period of his career is my favorite. It’s as if his career was broken into three acts - the Enfant Terrible era, the Bourgeois Couture era, and then the Camp era. I totally understand the love and the importance of his Enfant Terrible period, but the Bourgeois period, for me, is a true and definitive showcase of the pure mastery of making clothes…and then, of course, the Camp period was kind of a strange decade where the taste level seemed to just…disappear?I feel like my generation missed on Gaultier and the fun attached to it.
Gaultier in the 2000’s was already more bourgeois, all about the Couture, the classicism of Hermès...It had some glorious moments but maybe it wasn’t as connected to the youth and the spirit of irreverence.’
I’m also a fan of his bourgeois days. I love his enfants terrible days too...But the reality is that much like the people born in the mid 80’s I didn’t experienced that time when he was just a cool, irreverent kid of the fashion industry. He introduced me to Hermès and while I have some pieces I can’t say that enjoyed Gaultier at his creative peak. After maybe 2010, he indulged in being a kind of caricature...Something he was able to do because he was already part of the establishment...Perhaps unsurprisingly, that bourgeois period of his career is my favorite. It’s as if his career was broken into three acts - the Enfant Terrible era, the Bourgeois Couture era, and then the Camp era. I totally understand the love and the importance of his Enfant Terrible period, but the Bourgeois period, for me, is a true and definitive showcase of the pure mastery of making clothes…and then, of course, the Camp period was kind of a strange decade where the taste level seemed to just…disappear?
Anyway, I digress.
In a way, though, this whole reboot thing is doomed for me (aesthetically at least) since I’m not sure there’s any way I could be impressed by what these “cool kids” could come up with. Unlike the youth of Gaultier’s generation, kids now are pretty much next to useless, with not a single original thought in their minds. This is true almost without exception.
It’s like the meme goes…all they know how to do is “charge they phones, eat hot chip and lie.”
Running a legendary Couture house is a little above the skill set of your average millennial.
It feels like "Gaultier for H&M"...but the sad part here is that H&M is not involved at all; but it still looks like cheap fast-fashion.
Puig is the majority shareholder of the brand with JPG himself...Curious who is investor as obviously there are money put into this relaunch. Looks quite good. Always loved JPG and he is a constant inspiration for so many designers now. The archival JPG items are probably the hottest vintage items on the market, so this should work.