Jonathan Saunders

[strawberry daiquiri]

Is it all hype?

If any industry needs a great white hope at the moment, it’s British fashion. London was once hailed as the most vibrant style capital in the world. Never mind that our designers worked on shoestring budgets and probably turned over less in a year than Donatella Versace would spend on an aftershow party — creatively they were head and shoulders above their colleagues in Paris, Milan and New York. In recent years, however, its fortunes have faltered. High-profile stars such as Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney now show in Paris, and Roland Mouret, Luella Bartley and Matthew Williamson all prefer the slick runways of New York. A dearth of hot new talent has caused the international press and store buyers to bypass the city, and the talent drain shows no sign of stopping. Eleven young designers have dropped off the official London Fashion Week schedule this season alone. The last time the event was held, in September 2003, the atmosphere was more akin to a seaside town that had shut up for the winter than a fashion hot spot.

One designer, however, stood out — and that was Jonathan Saunders. The 26-year-old is being credited with single-handedly putting print back on the fashion map with his complicated, angular, yet joyous patterns, each individually mapped onto body-conscious clothes. Some pieces could be a tribute to Fritz Lang’s sexy android in Metropolis. Others bring to mind the computer-generated costumes in the cult 1980s sci-fi epic Tron. But in truth, his patterns don’t really resemble anything that’s been seen before. In an industry plagued by decade revivalism (1960s minis last winter, 1950s full-skirted dresses this summer) Saunders’s refreshing ability to create something new and utterly modern has got the fashion world talking.

“I don’t look at old prints because they’re so nostalgic. It’s so difficult with print. You associate it with an era. It’s either 1960s or 1970s. Prada has just done a 1950s collection and signified that with print. I try to get away from that,” he explains. His favourite shade is Klein blue: “I don’t just like the colour, I love the fact that Yves Klein invented it,” he says of the influential 1960s artist.

Indeed, Saunders looks to fine art, not fashion history, for inspiration. For his new spring 2004 collection, seen on these pages, he immersed himself in the work of MC Escher, the Dutch-born graphic artist who used mathematical principles to create his work. He also looked at Frank Stella and the father of pop art, Vaserelli.

He may be hailed as “the saviour of London Fashion Week” and “the prince of print” but Saunders isn’t about to let the hype go to his head. “If I am the big name then it’s a lot of pressure. You just have to do your best and do your job,” he says. His approach is surprisingly level-headed considering the amount of success he has enjoyed so far. In the two years since he graduated from St Martins, he has produced prints for both Alexander McQueen and Pucci, while his own-label designs have been snapped up by some of the world’s swankiest stores, including Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty and even the prestigious Henri Bendels in New York. Not bad for a Lanarkshire lad, who works out of a tiny studio in Brixton and hasn’t had a day off in two years.

But it’s not all air kisses and champagne for the latest star of London Fashion Week. “It’s still really hard work and it’s still a struggle,” he says, admitting he sometimes finds it hard to get two hours sleep a night. “But I’m still only in my first year of business,” he explains. That good night’s sleep will have to wait.

By Claudia Croft...

 

[tealady]

I don't think it's ALL hype. London had a good week but I think much of it is wishful thinking.

 

[ignitioned32]

His spring collection was much better. I only thought Jonathan Saunders was brilliant when the prints did not go against the forms and shape of the clothing. Or looked like it was place on purpose on ordinary clothing.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I thought I would bump this thread on the occasion that I have noticed Jonathan Saunders' website is finally offline for renovation.
Jonathan Saunders is one of my favourite designers who creates the most beautiful, wearable, desireable modern clothes that send shivers down my spine with their sheer simplicity but utter luxury and elegance.
This is shown in such pieces as these, that I still utterly adore, from his S/S 09 collection:

And from his A/W 07-08 collection:

He is a master of colour, print, elegance and modernity. I think he is underrated.

style.com

 

[Scott]

Jonathan Saunders' London excitement
Scottish fashion designer Jonathan Saunders is excited about showing his Autumn/Winter 2010 in London in February.

Jonathan Saunders can't wait to show his Autumn/Winter 2010 in London in February. The Scottish fashion designer - who is based in the British capital city - is excited about exhibiting his upcoming collection next year because he 'loved' London fashion week in September so much. He said: 'I'm going to show in London again in February; I just loved showing here in September. It's much easier than New York because I'm still based in London, and I always will be.' Although he couldn't live in the US, Jonathan is adamant he will return to New York to show his range later in the year to help boost sales. He explained: 'I will go back to show in New York next autumn. It's just such a huge country - and nationwide stores like Saks and Barney's give you such huge reach. It's good for a business.' The trendsetter - whose celebrity fans include Thandie Newton and Sienna Miller - has also described the closeness between the new British designers. He told Vogue.com: 'Chris Kane is amazing at what he does. He and I came to London and set up our businesses without the financial support from our parents that some designers have. We all come to what we do with a love to fashion. Richard Nicoll was in my class at university, Chris was two years below, Louise Gray I've known since we were in Scotland. We all support each other.'

*lifestyle.sg.msn.com

 

[Scott]

i really enjoy jonathan's cutting and his overall sense of architecture....that severely linear silhouette with slight air of fluidity.

 

[Master Wood]

^^ Jonathan Saunders' website is down for renovation because he's just about to launch an online store which is very exciting news. Looking forward to him showing in London again in February, I hope Mr Tillman can pull a few more tricks out his hat regarding getting some of the bigger names to come back to the London catwalks!

 

[LolaSvelt]

Crying Diamonds, I love the second gown you posted. It's lovely. I'm a big fan of Jonathan Saunders.

 

[Gainsbourg]

he's just about to launch an online store which is very exciting news

That'll be great! I love online shopping that's perfect for me

 

[Crying Diamonds]

The website has updated with the latest collections (and a video and archive ) but the online shop isn't up yet

 

[Flashbang]

The Scottish-born, London-based designer has had a stellar year. After winning the hotly contested BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund and its 200,000 British pound ($309,880) prize, he’s watched his sales double and signed his first accessory license with sunglasses firm Cutler and Gross. It’s no wonder his life of late is all work and little play. But who’s complaining?

WWD: Any fun summer vacation plans?
Jonathan Saunders: If I’m lucky enough to get away, which I probably won’t be, but let’s just fantasize for a minute here. It would have to be Sri Lanka. I’m obsessed with the culture, the beaches and the amazing food. It’s all about the food for me really, at home or on holiday.

WWD: Do you like to cook?
J.S.: I really love it because when I get home at night, it’s still something creative but I can totally switch off and not think about work. It’s the only time I don’t, to be honest.

WWD: If you were to host a dream dinner party, who would you invite?
J.S.: I’d like to have Miuccia Prada, Bob Dylan and Coco Chanel.

WWD: What would you cook for them?
J.S.: Sri Lanken curry, obviously.

WWD: Where do you see yourself and the brand in the next five years?
J.S.: It’s been an amazing year for us so far — winning the fashion fund, the launch of sunglasses and our men’s wear has been really successful. I think we have a strong brand identity that lends itself so well to accessories, so it’s choosing the right things at the right time — bags, shoes. There’s definitely more to come starting with increasing our team. It’s a great time for young British brands in general. There’s a hunger for innovation and real bravery in design that’s transforming, and mixing [that creativity] with business is going to take us to the next level.

wwd.com