Junya Watanabe Man S/s 05
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It's all in the detail, as we've said before. Of course on one view it's ridiculous for a shirt or any item of clothing. But i have a shirt from this collection and the details are interesting. It's made of formal shirting fabric (blue with yellow stripe), but is waterproofed (!), and has deliberately "bad" stitching which makes the hems sort of ruched. I don't really know why he's decided to do that, but it's a nice touch. There's also mobile phone pocket on the front, which sounds daft, but actually looks quite nice.
Johnny said:
That's lovely. You know that when it comes to "formal but hi-tech" fabrics, you could always count on Junya:-)
Actually the pocket seems not to be used, is it? It's like jkt pocket decades go. Just for fun. The "bad" stitching is v.cool, Johnny.
QUOTE]It's made of formal shirting fabric (blue with yellow stripe), but is waterproofed (!), and has deliberately "bad" stitching which makes the hems sort of ruched. I don't really know why he's decided to do that, but it's a nice touch. There's also mobile phone pocket on the front, which sounds daft, but actually looks quite nice[/QUOTE]
thats does sound nice johnny. i have to say things like this make me prefer his clothing over comme des garcons, because the details such as the waterproofing and the ruching is aesthetically functional such as with his latest women's collection.
thats does sound nice johnny. i have to say things like this make me prefer his clothing over comme des garcons, because the details such as the waterproofing and the ruching is aesthetically functional such as with his latest women's collection.
travolta said:
thats does sound nice johnny. i have to say things like this make me prefer his clothing over comme des garcons, because the details such as the waterproofing and the ruching is aesthetically functional such as with his latest women's collection.[/QUOTE]
It's funny travolta, but I'm starting to like his clothes more than comme's myself. I mean that mainly in relation to menswear, but, certainly, for the current collection, I suppose womenswear too. For next winter, I will definately be looking more at junya than comme. The "functionality" of his clothing is appealing - it makes it less precious, less serious and ultimately more wearable. But there are more than enough details (and thought behind those details) to keep it interesting from a design perspective.
Nqth - you'r right about the pocket, you wouln't really use it, but you could, which I think is the important thing. In other words it's not just decoration I think. In the parkas with phone pockets, the lining of the pocket is in padded nylon to keeo it extra waterproof. No one will see this with the garment on, but again its part of the "realness" of his menswear approach.
Thats something that I like about Rei/Junya, i.e. they are real "constructionalist", its not slap-dash-tie some-cloth-using-string-to-the-body-"art" its really "couture"(excuse the looseness) so to speak. It's art, and I think if you are going to pay a bomb for something, you can see where your money is going, more so than paying 300+ for a simple printed-tee-a-la-dior/dg
). The colors don't work for me, but you knew that screenage said:
i agree. his stuff is rich with experimentation. when i see his clothing i want to witness his process...i can imagine a machine similar to the ones used in toy companies to test the threshold of a strap under a great deal of stress. as i stated in the women's f/w 2005 thread, his designs are not trendy or arbitary.
he does not discard the elements for previous collection..but improves upon them, and the impression is a very coherent evolution. you know he is leading up to great things. in comparison to comme stuff, i think he creating clothing whereas comme is creating experiences. watanabe has shifted from avant garde clothing to designing for a real need. look at the latest collections for both designers, watanabe designed hip parkas and comme--nice blazers. how easy is it to find a nice blazer? this being said, not all of his designs work. example--the trousers with the boxy pockets in the s/s 2005 collection was not exactly subtle...but overall the depth to his ideas is rare indeed.
travolta said:
That is a very well made point travolta. When you look at his earlier women's collections they are much much more "avant garde", some very very difficult. I think he's distilled that sensibility into modern wearable clothes. And you're dead right about the current homme plus/junya man collections. It is really difficult to find a "hip parka" as you put it - it comes back down to details. THere are two types around at the moment - one would be for the neds/students (fake london, maharishi, other "street" labels) and the other would be technical sportwear proper in dull cuts and colours. Watanabe straddles these two categories perfectly - so the jackets are made by a proper ski wear company, but in Junya cuts in simple but very "bright" colours. It is somehow (in my view) exactly right. (Although it's super exepnsive and getting worse I think - I can only imagine how much the winter jackets will cost since they are presumably thicker/lined etc!).
Johnny said:
i absolutely agree, with all Johnny's points
i like 'hidden elements' in clothes, i find this a fresh attitude towards what is beautiful NOW, hidden details, invisible qualities are bringing something fresh in fashion.
Abs. agree with you:-)
I think JW always makes real clothes, if it comes to men's clothes. His sporty clothes are "real", not styling. The details you have noticed in the garment are usually made by brands like The North Face... but JW adds his cut and textile design. It's briliant.
It's "clever" that he makes diff. material, from light to goretex. One might not need the thickest goretex if one lives in a city. But I think that some must own the absolute:-P
I think JW always makes real clothes, if it comes to men's clothes. His sporty clothes are "real", not styling. The details you have noticed in the garment are usually made by brands like The North Face... but JW adds his cut and textile design. It's briliant.
It's "clever" that he makes diff. material, from light to goretex. One might not need the thickest goretex if one lives in a city. But I think that some must own the absolute:-P
Lena said:
but isn't it a bit of a shame its a fresh attitude? so much of fashion is ostentatious. when a designer comes along like junya, it makes you think why is what he is bringing so rare? isn't solving design problems ultimately cost effective in the long run and rewards you greater brand loyalty? fashion can't continue like this forever..innovation is a neccessity even more now than ever.
it will be interesting to see how brands stay afloat..as we are already seeing with the last couple collections. to me it isn't about making more bland clothing ..aesthetic is dictated by the designers..they can make what they want as long as it is reasonable to the consumer. in the end its $$ so maybe they will start thinking out of the box and really use the design the solve these problems. both miyake and ysl wish they invented jeans...if a designer patented something like that they wouldn't have to worry about making ends meet. fuctional things are stylish.
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Fade to Black
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travolta said:
good point. i like clothes that are timeless and can be worn for years yet still maintain their personality, which is why I admire Junya's designs. Like the tag that's attached with his clothes saying how he makes basics with his unique spin on them (forgot the exact words). i'll be trying to get one of the junya winter jackets.
more parka
Remember the discusion about JWM sportwear? No more no logo JWM gore tex parka:-P
Pictures from blogs
http://nark.exblog.jp/
http://gdeh2005.exblog.jp/3170412
and
http://juliawalk.seesaa.net/
Remember the discusion about JWM sportwear? No more no logo JWM gore tex parka:-P
Pictures from blogs
http://nark.exblog.jp/
http://gdeh2005.exblog.jp/3170412
and
http://juliawalk.seesaa.net/
Last edited by a moderator:
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