The opening looks are kind of a better Prada than this season's Prada; the subsequent technical stuff is a better ALYX than this (or any) season's ALYX; and he also gives what looks like a well-deserved victory lap to some of his own biggest hits (patchworked tailoring, moto zippers on boiled wool, TNF/backpack jackets, etc.) for everybody who didn't already get the chance to buy them.
That first lacquered black puffer vest with baggy shorts and leggings is the only look I disliked, it appears phoned-in/artless enough to be a Matthew Williams creation, but the fact there's only one such low point and it's hardly offensive just serves as another testament to the reliable talent of Junya Watanabe.