Junya Watanabe F/W 2022.23 Tokyo

[Pastry]

^
i wouldn't be surprised if they did have some of the best pattern makers on earth. certainly, much of the tailoring work at the original jil sander was done by an enormously talented japanese fellow whose name i don't remember. and that's not an isolated case.

to this day, japanese clothing manufacturing is consistently impressive with a much, much higher average than anywhere else in the world. i've observed this in other labels made in japan (e.g. thom browne).

when it comes to junya, the deciding moment was when i tried on a patchwork coat years ago. the weight of it on the hanger. the way it skimmed over the body and sat on the shoulders. every stitch so tiny and perfect. i've yet to experience an off-the-rack coat that felt the same.

with jackets at junya (and comme) especially, they really know what they're doing.

 

[eugenius]

Him and his team can literally design circles around everybody else.

The more I look at the clip here, plus his last collection, plus other womens collections of his as well, the more I can't help but imagine what his studio must look & feel like. How do his patternmakers come up with this? What's the draping process look like? What's the fabric selection look like? How hands-on is Junya is all this? Does he do any cutting? Does he do any pattern-making himself? Does he just point + yell with a stick and expect his team to do all the work? Is his team all Japanese? Are there any Americans on his team (Unlikely..we can't even learn simple Spanish.) What music is playing in the studio? How do they come up w/ the shapes? What does this say about him? When does he know a garment is done? Sooo many questions...

And to me, that's always a good sign of a good/great creation: when what you're creating (clothes, music, cinema, photography..cooking, too) makes somebody else want to BE a part of that world...if that makes any sense.

 

[Lola701]

^ completely agree
in another thread someone asked what luxury labels give good value for money, now i wouldn't call junya a luxury label but you definitely get a lot for your money spent here.
the design is there obviously, the make is perfect and he probably has the best pattern cutters in the business and really manages to get the most out of them

I wouldn’t consider the Japanese as luxury (even if they have a lot of very expensive pieces, particularly with Yohji) but you are totally on point with what you said in terms of quality and even design and timelessness.
There are three things I can always count on when it comes to Japanese designers: Jackets/Coats, shirts and skirts.
I buy a lot of mens shirts from CDG shirts and when it comes to jackets/coats and skirts, I can always count on Junya! And the best thing is that his pieces are great for daywear but dramatic enough for eveningwear.

And there’s one more thing that is still perfect with the Japanese, it’s their commitment to fabrics. They use very simple but noble fabrics and I have the feeling that the clothes are always designed with their function in mind.

I must say that it’s a pity that Adrian Joffe has opened CDG to the doors of fast fashion with the endless diffusion lines.
It’s great that Junya has maintained his success and his standard without choosing that route.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I wonder if the Cristobal Balenciaga mantle coat with tiered sleeves was a reference point because this a beautiful homage if it were! Fantastic in motion too, just wish there was a still of the back.

 

[Pastry]

I wonder if the Cristobal Balenciaga mantle coat with tiered sleeves was a reference point

riiiiight, i didn't even make the connection. of course, the famous photo of lisa fonsagrives penn wearing it.

(even if they have a lot of very expensive pieces, particularly with Yohji)

...the best thing is that his pieces are great for daywear but dramatic enough for eveningwear.

And there’s one more thing that is still perfect with the Japanese, it’s their commitment to fabrics. They use very simple but noble fabrics and I have the feeling that the clothes are always designed with their function in mind

omg, right?! when i go through the yohji coats, jackets and shirts on the rack, my eyes bleed. i don't even want to know how much those face shirts from a couple of seasons ago were.

great comment lola. i think of junya's dresses like that when i see them. a cool daywear look if you work at the right place. and if you're working late and can't make it home to change for the opening that evening, throw on a necklace, change the makeup, you're good to go.

and yes, the fabrics. ah, japanese fabrics. some time ago, i used to edit all the samples that come from the mills every season. yes, the italian mills probably account for a very large share of fabrics used by high end labels.

however, the japanese are on a different level. and their prices are high. and even higher for europe ad even

 

[Pastry]

oye...
wanted to say that the prices of japanese mills are especially high for europe and the americas after they clear customs.

yes, it's just a twill or just a microfibre. but the design and finishing of the fabrics is consistently great; remarkable even. as far as commercial textile mills go, some of the most advanced, subtle and unusual surface design out there.

 

[runner]

Does he do any pattern-making himself?

junya is a patternmaker above all else.
(there is a little anecdote from decades ago. there was a comme shape done with wire. he achieved it by means of patternmaking alone.)

he's affable. but the content of his words is severe.
3:00 junya the man in blue shirt
" will you come back when you come up with something else? "
7:39 when he likes it, he bows in thanks for what katsuya kamo did.

 

[softgrey]

that's a very interesting clip...
thanks for that, runner...

this whole thread is full of interesting commentary and musings...
this is definitely not my fave junya collection...
I don't think i'd personally wear a single thing but you've gotta respect the talent...
the way the patchwork skirts swing with every step is masterful and glorious...

also agree with what others have said about japanese fabrics being exceptional...

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey









dsm
junya watanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

[runner]

(boots fabio rusconi and pants tao)


artwork-shop.jp

 

[runner]

(boots mm)


artwork-shop.jp

 

[softgrey]

thanks for these additional images runner......

might be worth a trip to Dover St Market to check that pleated-back jacket...

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro, shibuya

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro, shibuya

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro, shibuya

 

[JohannesL]

The craftmanship is incredible, which makes me want him to helm Balenciaga!

 

[brandon J pierre]

this is amazing

 

[helmutnotdead]

The craftmanship is incredible, which makes me want him to helm Balenciaga!

they don’t deserve him.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

It’s pretty clear that he operates in a lane of his own. Not even including construction, his fabric selections alone set him apart from his so called “piers”.

Why I appreciate the most about JW is that although you can see the Comme influence, he never lets their present excess pull away from his accessibility. He makes clothes you can- and want- to wear, whereas with Comme IMO, it’s all about a precise look that caters to a very, very tiny customer base.