Junya Watanabe F/W 2022.23 Tokyo

[Deleted member 7575]

That's a legit, more honest question and I think/hope we all wonder about the schemes to mark up goods, but as consumers, we should also self-check sometimes before we enter rampant consumerism territory, aka. Mutterlein's concern, which is actually the opposite of a concern, it's indifference towards the factors involved in costs through a pretty open preference for duty free goods and skipping the impact of travel costs, which again, any consumer will relate to (who doesn't like a discount or a company refund) and a healthier rationale that is consistent with this 'concern', if it was one, would be to land on that second paragraph of yours (economy/inflation/trade agreements), instead of the product itself masking some import/export-for-dummies logic as supporting evidence to the cheap nasty fabric claim when the only evidence is a) hearsay/informal source [unverifiable "insider" info], and b) that you feel entitled to a discount, and if you can't get it, you will discredit the product altogether.

You're overthinking it. It's not that complicated.

The cost of imported Japanese fashion is prohibitive. It's easier to buy if you're lucky enough to make it to Japan.

I was.

The clothes don't necessarily lose any value because the price goes up when purchased abroad. Value is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

That's a legit, more honest question and I think/hope we all wonder about the schemes to mark up goods, but as consumers, we should also self-check sometimes before we enter rampant consumerism territory, aka. Mutterlein's concern, which is actually the opposite of a concern, it's indifference towards the factors involved in costs through a pretty open preference for duty free goods and skipping the impact of travel costs, which again, any consumer will relate to (who doesn't like a discount or a company refund) and a healthier rationale that is consistent with this 'concern', if it was one, would be to land on that second paragraph of yours (economy/inflation/trade agreements), instead of the product itself masking some import/export-for-dummies logic as supporting evidence to the cheap nasty fabric claim when the only evidence is a) hearsay/informal source [unverifiable "insider" info], and b) that you feel entitled to a discount, and if you can't get it, you will discredit the product altogether.

I don't know where your hostility coming from and I guess I don't really care. But no need to take my sharing of my insights as a personal attack.

Believe me. Don't believe me. I could really give two sh*ts.

Also, you can decide for yourself if the fabrics are cheap and nasty or not. Can't you? Touch them, look at the fiber content.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I'm not a fan of the combination of the two either though, fashion is that which has one foot in that kind of zone which she was talking about.

"a conspiracy of snobs. Innovation is relaxation now; today’s E-Z Art gives the green light to all. In the cultural climate favoring the more user-friendly art of recent years, the beautiful seems, if not obvious, then pretentious. Beauty continues to take a battering in what are called, absurdly, our culture wars." - susan sontag

while this is not just about CdG, they are in pressing need of bringing in younger audience, who could be more familiar with this sort (takashi murakami) than something subtle or austere.


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I am not mad at CDG for sacrificing the quality of their fabrics on certain pieces. The cost of those garment is allocated to other things. I only mentioned it because someone was singing the praises of their fabrics and I disagreed.

Also, those two examples are wildly out of context. I'm not sure it's fair or useful to compare them without any consideration of their very different histories and context.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I understand your concern and in reverse, that's a huge reason as to why a large percentage of luxury shoppers in Europe are tourists from outside the union - I would go as far as to assume a

I can maybe add to the fact that the Yen had been an especially unstable currency in the mid 2000s, which caused a drastic raise in prices for most Japanese designers on overseas markets and therefor heavily affected their businesses: Y's, Yohji Yamamoto's supposed RTW line, suddenly found itself as expensive as the mainline brand, which made it very hard market it or several seasons. Retail customers ordered significantly less or dropped the line downright at the time.

I understand your concern and in reverse, that's a huge reason as to why a large percentage of luxury shoppers in Europe are tourists from outside the union - I would go as far as to assume a large motivation for their travels is luxury goods shopping. But that in turn, also begs the question how far removed the prices for luxury goods are from the actual worth of a garment, bag or shoe - Especially in the eye of major heritage labels like Bottega Veneta or Chanel raising the prices of their leather goods.

I can maybe add to the fact that the Yen had been an especially unstable currency in the mid 2000s, which caused a drastic raise in prices for most Japanese designers on overseas markets and therefor heavily affected their businesses: Y's, Yohji Yamamoto's supposed RTW line, suddenly found itself as expensive as the mainline brand, which made it very hard market it or several seasons. Retail customers ordered significantly less or dropped the line downright at the time.

The impression I got was that it was mostly import duties and VAT that was driving the prices up abroad. Back when I was shopping in Tokyo, Uniqlo was interestingly enough the same exact price in Japan as it was in the US. That's only recently changed due to the weak yen (Uniqlo's prices are noticeably higher now in the US). I know they're apples and oranges with very different infrastructure and supply chain issues but I wonder if Yohji and CDG prices have shot up recently in the US .

 

[runner]

I am not mad at CDG for sacrificing the quality of their fabrics on certain pieces. The cost of those garment is allocated to other things. I only mentioned it because someone was singing the praises of their fabrics and I disagreed.

Also, those two examples are wildly out of context. I'm not sure it's fair or useful to compare them without any consideration of their very different histories and context.

I was not thinking you were mad, but thought you had read that post and were pointing out what there is to be seen.
and I was writing reasons that there could be behind.

my concern was to talk about comme, junya, and fashion, although it's not like whether you were mad or not is insignificant.

it's not the works themselves but the surroundings as what younger audience and veteran fanbase are prone to be exposed to that I compared there.
rei kawakubo mentioned the pose of that ancient statue when she described herself.
I believe her generation would not say "like My Lonesome Cowboy" when they talk about themselves, basically.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I was not thinking you were mad, but thought you had read that post and were pointing out what there is to be seen.
and I was writing reasons that there could be behind.

my concern was to talk about comme, junya, and fashion, although it's not like whether you were mad or not is insignificant.

it's not the works themselves but the surroundings as what younger audience and veteran fanbase are prone to be exposed to that I compared there.
rei kawakubo mentioned the pose of that ancient statue when she described herself.
I believe her generation would not say "like My Lonesome Cowboy" when they talk about themselves, basically.

Understood.

I didn't want anyone to misconstrue my comment about their fabrics as a negative judgement or a challenge to their integrity as designers.

 

[runner]

to tell the truth, I don't have so much faith in the integrity. they can only have the moments of integrity.
while orwell said "its aim is not to degrade the human being but to remind him that is already degraded", to return to the point of origin is not a pros' job, of course.
but I'm skeptical of companies (whatever) who boast of their integrity without that awareness, or with discriminating forgetfulness.

I admit I tend to want to find good things since fallenness is already (or naturally) everywhere.

 

[runner]

fun stuff from this season












junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

[runner]

selfservicemagazine

 

[runner]

looks good on junya shop staff
this person 156 cm














junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro

 

[runner]

junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

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junyawatanabe seibu shibuya

 

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ssawmag

 

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for Cocteau Stone






junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro

 

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junyawatanabe seibu shibuya ikebukuro

 

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junyawatanabe seibu ikebukuro and shibuya

 

[runner]

MANIFESTO
10 magazine

 

[eugenius]

Men in skirts? Sure. But men in Junya skirts? I don’t know.

 

[runner]

^ necessity vs decoration issue, rather than men in skirts ?
or substance and superficiality, life and fashion, etc
anyway came across this pic.



selfservice