I look back at designers like Dior and Balenciaga and if you really study fashion history you see how radical and progressive their work was (especially Balenciaga). There aren't a whole lot of designers who are pushing technique, porportion, and the conventional concept of a garment like they did (C.B. more than C.D). Watanabe is their most apparent contemporary. He has the same esotericism but masterful intrigue Balenciaga had, managing to keep it all well grounded within contemporary tastes. He goes even further taking modern sensitivites regarding ornamention, porportion, and garment history and treating them as abstract tools. His end products are clothes so unimaginable but at the same time very natural and very "right". He also keeps the spirit of couture but again with a more modern sense. His use of technique is as innovative as it gets, progressive but utterly elegant. His direction and his values are what modern couture should be about, not theatrical and lead heavy historical remakes from Dior, Lacroix, and even Chanel. Unfortunately unlike Dior Or Balenciaga, he doesn't enjoy international acclaim at the same level. You won't catch Nicole Kidman strutting the red carpet in the latest Watanabe or Uma Thurman peddling his goods in an advertisment, but I suppose he is able to keep his integrity that way. To me he is truly "the master of us all".