continue
Kate's hi-lo style has become the new luxury and is symbolic of the way 20-somethings have redefined sophistication. When she bought a denim Hermès Birkin bag at the age of 21 because "it was so gorgeous! I just thought it was the most perfect bag," she created a new way of wearing it—with sneakers and jeans, with cool vintage coats—so that it no longer seemed like a ghastly Eurotrash accessory. When she went out on the town in 1996 in a vintage cheongsam, everyone suddenly wanted to dress Chinese. These two looks perfectly predicted two huge fashion trends—logos and vintage—that didn't catch on until much later in the decade. It is for good reason that Kate's every sartorial move is watched closely by the industry—the girl is something of a style prophet.
The Kate Story is now fashion history. At 14, Moss was "discovered" in an airport by Sarah Doukas, owner of London's Storm Models. She lived with photographer Corinne Day between the ages of 15 and 17. Day photographed her for the cover of
The Face in 1990, launching a whole new look. Moss made the cover of British
Vogue in 1993 and hit America when Calvin Klein hired her. She went on to walk the runways for Chanel, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs, to name but a few. She appeared in countless ad campaigns, the most memorable being Mario Sorrenti's Obsession ads for Calvin Klein.
Ever savvy in her choices, Moss never walked the runway for anyone who did not bring something to her image while she was bringing something to theirs. Now that she's in the luxurious position of not having to appear on any runway, her last few shows were telling: She turned up at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. She asked Nicolas Ghesquière if she could appear in Balenciaga—which happened to be the hottest collection of the season. Without her unique dress sense and extraordinary gift for timing, Kate would probably be just another pretty face. So where did she acquire her impeccable taste?
Croydon, says Kate—the blue-collar, suburban town where she grew up—was the biggest influence on her style. Croydon is a depressingly characterless place about 15 miles from London. You could call it the British equivalent of Newark—not exactly the natural birthplace of a fashion icon. "I was 14. In Croydon it was all about Vivienne Westwood. It was, like, a crotch mini and a Vivienne Westwood T-shirt and, you know, the proper Sex shoes. That was the look. It was really trendy." (Ironically, vintage Westwood has never been trendier than right now.) "I remember seeing that model Keith Martin on the bus on the way home from school head to toe in Westwood, you know, with, like, the Buffalo hat on and the crown. On the bus!"
Broke, Moss shopped at jumble sales. "I'd buy trash bags full of clothes for 50p. I had more clothes then than I do now! I was just like my friends in Croydon, James Brown and the posse. They were really fashion-conscious because they were suburban, and that's the way suburban people are. They're more fashion-conscious, and they're more trendy." Kate herself was always a fashion leader. As Stella McCartney says, "Kate is Kate, and there's never been anyone like her and there never will be anyone like her, and that's why her style is so individual." Brown recalls meeting her for the first time. She had red lipstick, long hair and was clad in jeans and a white vest. "She was 14! She had those Katharine Hamnett boots with the thick heels and a Goose jacket in leather from New York that I'd been wanting for a year. It was the thing everyone wanted. I don't think she knew what it was, she just had it. She had her own sense of style and was one step ahead of everyone else. I don't know where it came from."
When Kate moved in with Corinne Day, she "upgraded from jumble sales to Portobello market … and that's when you start throwing things together like that." Kate, Corinne, and stylist Melanie Ward started wearing what later became known as grunge: long skirts or pinstriped suits with sneakers, chiffon dresses, skinny vests. Moss wore antique silk nightdresses out at night. In pictures of Moss's so-called grunge phase, which she says lasted "about six months," she looks unbelievably glamorous.
"I remember when I went to the shows, people looked at me funny," says Kate, recalling Cindy, Christy and Linda in Chanel suits and Alaïa bandages. Still, she never felt she needed to dress like them to be successful. "I never thought I was going to make as much money as them anyway." Even when Kate could afford the supermodel uniform, she didn't fall for it. "Most of the designers weren't doing things I wanted anyway. I still had to go to secondhand shops and find them."
It was when she started dating Johnny Depp in 1994 that Moss's greater fame, and a keener sense of glamour, captured the world's imagination. Moss insists that no man has ever influenced her style, but she does concede that being with Depp, "I got more glamorous and a bit more sophisticated … but I wanted to dress up anyway. I liked dressing up before that, but I didn't really have anywhere to go. I didn't go to premieres then."
Kate Moss Shopping list #2 is, of course, Kate's Greatest Hits—clothes that still look wonderful now, sometimes 10 years on. There was Kate at Cannes in 1997 with Depp, unforgettable in Narciso Rodriguez's gray shift dress, diamond-stud earrings, and red lips. For the 1998 CFDA awards she wore a backless, black sequined column that Depp had specially made for her after she admired Julie Christie in an identical dress in the movie
Shampoo (Naomi wore golden Versace). A white, bias-cut slip-dress by John Galliano that the designer gave her for her 21st birthday became a staple for night, worn with a string of diamonds and casual, undone hair. For day she favored jeans, a black turtleneck, an animal-print coat by Dolce & Gabbana, and an alligator Kelly bag. At a Versace party at Twilo in 1995, Kate wore a zebra-print dress that looks as fashionable now as it did then. To the premiere of
Closer in New York in 1999 she wore a green satin slip-dress and pink heels. Last year she went to a Santana concert in London in a parka that was longer than the tiny denim miniskirt underneath it.
Kate still has many of these pieces. She throws on the Galliano slip-dress "in the garden at my house in the country when I want to feel glamorous." She's been wearing those diamond-flowerpot earrings for years. The pinstriped grunge trousers still come out. Without even thinking about it, Kate has always veered toward classics that she puts together with a light touch. Shopping list #2 is just as current as Shopping List #1, despite the time lapses. "It's a taste thing," explains Kate. "You've got either good taste or bad taste, and it doesn't matter where you come from."
Much as we would all like to believe that Moss has to work hard at her look, she doesn't. She says she does have occasional "fashion crises. I'll be like 'No! I've got nothing to wear!' But that's more of a state of mind than I haven't got anything to wear." And she never goes out thinking, I look like a bit of an idiot; I'm going to risk it. Moss says the best way to look good is when you "make it up as you go along."
It's not just talk. Moss rarely shops in advance, preferring to nab pieces from designers' studios (this week it was the chain-trimmed S&M stilettos from Narciso Rodriguez) or out-of-the-way flea markets. Her outfits are usually thrown together in 20 minutes, and the furthest ahead she will plan a party look is one or two days. She has a talent with scissors and wore a dress to the 1999 VH1/
Vogue Fashion Awards that "I just cut up that night," a habit she says she would not extend to her Galliano dress. She loves to filch clothes and recently fell in love with "James Brown's dad's trousers," which she wears all the time. She put together an outfit recently to go to the opening of David Tang's new London store by borrowing pants from a friend and a jacket from the friend's boyfriend, and because she was growing her hair out, she popped into a men's hat shop on the Harrow Road and bought a cap to cover it. The cap, of course, turned the ensemble into another accidentally iconic Kate look. "The change of image can only be down to her in the end," says British designer Matthew Williamson, an old friend for whom Moss has walked the runway, "because it's always right. Logically, if she was being dictated to by a stylist she'd get it wrong from time to time."
Unwittingly, Moss sparks huge trends with her make-it-up-as-you-go-along philosophy. Take her short blond crop, which Tom Ford says "was definitely an inspiration for me this season. Kate was the perfect embodiment for the Spring collection." Kate says she went blond because "I had a kidney infection. I was in the hospital and I got bored and I was like … I want to be blond! So they came to the hospital, and it was hilarious." James Brown cut her long hair into a punkish crop with a long fringe and shaved back. The cut sparked a massive copycat frenzy, during which any model worth her Manolos chopped and bleached her long tresses.
Kate claims she had no idea her crop would be so influential. She says she did it purely because "I've been saying for years, 'Shall I cut my hair? Shall I cut my hair? Shall I cut my hair?' And my friend was like, 'Kate, for God's sake shut up! Just cut it.' So I did that day. At the time I was looking at pictures of Edie Sedgwick." (The other women Kate mentions as inspirations are Jane Birkin and Charlotte Rampling—British beauties with the kind of natural English style that Kate prefers.) "The short blond hair," says Brown, "was amazing for her career. But that was the last thing we were thinking. She was going to give up modeling! Really stylish people would never cut their hair for their career. Kate's style is so not calculated."
Another little fashion storm was created after Kate was photographed wearing a 20-year-old pair of Vivienne Westwood's original Pirate boots that she had bought in London from Steven Phillip, the co-owner of trendy vintage store Rellik. After the photographs were published, Phillip received 200 calls a month inquiring after the boots. "It was all because of Kate. If people had told me a girl could create a stir like this over a pair of bloody boots, I would never have believed them," he says, still flabbergasted. Vivienne Westwood put the boots back into production, and Shelley's, a British High Street store, is selling the knockoffs for £69. Kate doesn't know quite what to think about her power as a fashion guru. About the pirate-boot revival she jokes, "Oh, no, that means I can't wear them anymore." On being an icon to her generation she shyly says, "I don't know. Weird."
Apart from the face, the body and her talent to supersede the whims of fashion, Moss's style comes as much from her personality as anywhere else. Irrelevant as it may sound to the way she looks, Moss has a cool personality. It's very important: One cannot
look cool without
being cool. Without attitude there is no style. Moss is the ultimate London girl, constantly whispering dangerous gossip right behind someone's back, flirting with other people's boyfriends while hugging their girlfriends, calling everyone "Darlin' " whether she's known them five minutes or five years, casually discussing her various trips to rehab and AA while sipping a drink. Even the way she talks is cool. She doesn't use those tired old words like
chic or
eclectic or
boho to describe fashion. She uses the word
gorge (short for "gorgeous" in London-girl speak). Her diamonds are
gorge. Her silver-sequined evening bag the size of a Post It note is
gorge. Her boyfriend,
Dazed & Confused editor Jefferson Hack, is also
gorge. When I ask her to empty the contents of her handbag for the purposes of this style analysis, she pulls out a bottle of Chanel No 19, a Smythson's python wallet and diary, and finally a bottle opener, exclaiming, "Ooh, I wouldn't go anywhere without that." After years of wanting them, Kate finally owns the Vivienne Westwood Sex shoes she dreamed of as a teenager. They are divinely tarty black leather pumps with an outrageously high heel that gives the foot an orgasmic arch. On the back of each heel are four metal spikes. What on earth is she going to wear them with? She gives me the Kate look—cute little heart face, naughty smile, laughing eyes. She giggles. Then she looks faux serious and responds, "Nothing." She will, of course, look
gorge.
http://www.style.com/vogue/feature/072001/page2.html