The first point of note is that in its second life, Balenciaga is a ready-to-wear label only — under its inventor it produced just haute couture (the return of which Ghesquière does not rule out). One of his important moves early on was to create a bag: “The factories in Spain were making things with leather anyway, so why not a bag?”. That bag became the Lariat, which by now wholly deserves to be described as classic yet is still cool enough to spawn endless copies, and still resplendently responsible for waiting lists everywhere, despite the many desirable bags in the world now.
In the beginning, though, the Lariat did not hit the spot. “Nobody was quite sure about it. Even I was not quite sure about it. It was sitting on shelves in shops everywhere, not moving at all for two years.” Then Ghesquière had a flash: why not send it as a gift to precisely the kind of women he wanted to wear his designs? He made a list of 30 names, among whom were Kate Moss and the editor of French Vogue, Carine Roitfeld, and 30 bags were dispatched in time for the New York shows. Wear them they did, and by the time the Paris shows rolled around four weeks later the bag was a hit. And, of course, very soon there were none left on the shelves; Moss still happily totes hers around town.