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Comme des Garçons Set for Open
By Miles Socha
LONDON — Rei Kawakubo, a designer at the forefront of fashions that are destroyed and frayed, has translated that groundbreaking idea into a building form.
Her new Dover Street Market, a 13,000-square-foot multibrand emporium that opens to the public here on Saturday, is a gritty alternative to the typical designer temple, with rusting corrugated metal instead of wenge wood and construction site Porta-Potties in lieu of plush dressing rooms.
“It’s taking that concept [of imperfection] to the extreme. For my eye, it’s beautiful,” Kawakubo told WWD as she admired hulking shelves made of recovered plywood, much of it flown in at great expense from her native Japan. “I think creating retail spaces like this is an integral part of the design world of Comme des Garçons.”
Kawakubo, also making waves with her sprawling network of “guerrilla” stores, has said she wanted an atmosphere of “chaos” for her new London outpost, in which Comme des Garçons brands rub shoulders with stands offered to the likes of Lanvin, Raf Simons and the antique dealer Emma Hawkins.
That was certainly the case Thursday, as teams of Japanese and English construction workers scrambled to ready the store for a grand unveiling to the international press today. Azzedine Alaïa, selling everything from Jean Prouve furniture to his clingy dresses on the first floor, had to duck out of harm’s way as metal girders and planks, which pass for shelving in Kawakubo’s world, were maneuvered into place.
As unfinished as the store appeared Thursday at noon, Kawakubo, dressed in a crumpled red jacket and MC Hammer-style pants, oversaw every detail and designed most of the fixtures. Meanwhile, her husband, Adrian Joffe, who is also Comme des Garçons’ managing director in Europe, orchestrated the mix of vendors and hammered out almost two dozen concession agreements with the likes of Hedi Slimane (for furniture) to Japanese fashion label Undercover, which naturally chose the basement of the six-story complex.
Joffe said it cost about 1 million pounds, or $1.8 million at current exchange, to build the store, which is expected to generate first-year volume of 5 million pounds, or $9 million, and to reach profitability within a year.
While acknowledging it’s an untested concept, Kawakubo said she always trusts her instincts; and local markets, after which Dover Street is modeled, remain her favorite shopping destination for their authenticity and the energy and sense of discovery they generate.
“When I first came to London, you bought all your clothes at Kensington Market and at the one in Beaufort Street,” recalled stylist Joe McKenna, who has a stand tucked between Comme des Garçons Shirt and Alaïa. It stocks Comme T-shirts bearing photos he selected by photographers David Simms and Ines Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, along with Bruce Weber’s new clothing line, Weberbilt.
“But this is a rather posh market,” he allowed.
And unorthodox in countless ways — from velvet curtains instead of a window display to checkouts sheltered in huts that look like they were plucked from a shantytown.
“You can’t do anything new and exciting without taking any risk,” said Joffe.
To be sure, Kawakubo’s guerrilla stores, artist-squat-like operations that operate for only one year in frontier locales of cities, are already flying high in places like Berlin, Barcelona and Singapore. A unit in Ljubljana, Slovenia, is slated to bow today, with Stockholm, Warsaw and Helsinki locations opening later this month
“They’re all doing 150 percent ahead of projections,” Joffe reported proudly. Comme des Garçons, which saw sales rise 7 percent last year to $135 million, also operates a chain of more conventional retail stores, including about 290 boutiques and corners around Japan. In addition to the new Dover Street location, which replaces a franchise unit on Brook Street here, there are flagships in Paris and London.
Originally posted by Lena@Sep 15 2004, 09:41 AM
from wwd
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Originally posted by Acid@Sep 15 2004, 11:07 AM
so i guess the opening night will be tomorrow
*picks up cell phone*
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hintmagIt's as if Rei Kawakubo is incapable of sleeping. In the last few months alone, the indefatigable Comme des Garçons designer has not only launched multiple temporary "guerilla" stores around the world and opened a new Tokyo shop in collaboration with Colette, but this month she's swung open the doors of her Dover Street Market, a massive retail experiment located in the heart of London. Inspired by notions of chaos, accident and creative tension, Kawakubo has thrown virtually every creative discipline—fashion, art, film, furniture design—into the proverbial mix, all mingling in organic new ways. At least that's the idea. Unique items by the likes of Hedi Slimane, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, Raf Simons, Azzedine Alaia, Anne Valerie Hash, Boudicca and Undercover are installed among Kawakubo-designed furniture on each of the six floors in what is easily her biggest move yet in stripping away the mind-numbing commercialism of commerce—the high-gloss, the fantasy, the celebrities—which now suddenly seems painfully old-fashioned. Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, London W1S 4LT, +44 20 7518 0680
FWDStyle Destination: Dover Street Market
September 24, 2004 - London
The most frequented style scene in this week’s London fashion season was not a show but a store.
Named Dover Street Market, it is the brainchild of Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo, a six-floored emporium of innovative design, art and fashion that was an obligatory port of call for all visiting fashion editors, stylists and reporters.
From its nonchalantly incomplete air to its top floor bakery and basement pot pouri of goods, the store is the most innovative retail concept to open in Europe’s busiest chopping capital in eons.
Most hot boutiques in London, especially in tony Mayfair where Dover Street is located, are giant, intimidating flagship affairs; empty retail cathedrals with minimalist display units, humungous mirrors, over-sized furniture and cloned sales staff. Not Rei’s retail space. Every square-inch in the not-quite finished office building at 17-18 Dover Street seems customized, mainly by Kawakubo, to the unique product offering on display.
Kawakubo is no stranger to novel retailing. Recently she pioneered a new guerrilla store idea, where Comme des Garcons shops open for just one-year in edgy districts of happening international cities like Berlin and Barcelona.
Her 13,000-square-foot Dover street bazaar is typically iconoclastic: from its bashed and taped cardboard display units and corrugated iron walls to the Porta-cabin changing rooms and relaxed, almost bemused sales staff.
But, the most novel element is, ultimately, the product choice, where Rei asked stellar designers like Albert Elbaz of Lanvin and Hedi Slimane of Dior Hommes to develop ideas for the store. Elbaz responded with a limited edition, all-white collection of his particular brand of dream-like ladylike chic, while Slimane supplied a selection of strict furniture, more works of art than home furnishings. Limited editions of just ten pieces, Hedi’s pieces are priced from £2,900 to £4,000.
“When Rei asked me to participate, I decided that it had to be very conceptual, just wedding dresses, in cream and ecru, but ones you could wear outside if a wedding. In a way it was a homage to Rei, who to me is all about mixing conceptualism and tradition,” Albaz told FWD.
Other designers sold more than their own collections, like Azzedine Alaia, who showed Jean Prouve’s classic modern furniture in his space as well as his choice of Alaia classics.
Other surprises included a Western/wacky shirt collection from photographer Bruce Weber entitled Weberbilt, Raf Simons personal choice of his signature looks, antique dealer Emma Hawkins’ bizarre array of stuffed animals, Sebiro by United Arrows wonderful checked shirts and Ann Valerie Hash’s conceptualist fashion looks.
Kawakubo has always insisted that her favorite shopping destination in most cities is a market, which is what Dover Street is all about. And like any good market, Rei’s boasts somewhere to eat. In this case it’s Rose Bakery, a charming lunchtime specialist famed for great soups that has taken its Rue des Martyrs concept from Paris to London.
“I loved the fact that Rei called it a market; because it is not a fashion temple. That way things can be moved around and change and not be some sort of dead monument. It reminds me of back in the twenties, when artists and designers participated in projects together and were not enemies. It is a sign of strength,” insists Elbaz.
you are welcome SpacemiuOriginally posted by Spacemiu@Sep 27 2004, 10:08 AM
thanks for the pics runner, every things look very cool!
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