Khaite F/W 2023.24 New York

[vogue28]

 

[Gazillion]

those fluffy heels look familiar... good to see Leila though.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Had to really up the playback speed because the pacing I couldn't sit through at all. Makes the music more bearable too funnily enough.

The collection just feels really stiff, from the leather to the wool coats then to the knits. It wants to be something a little more womanly and mature akin to Philo's Celiné but it actually feels a bit oppressive. Adding the colder setting that they favour and the slowness this is just really glum to me.

 

[Bugsy]

Mixed feelings. There are some fabric mash ups I like but overall it feels like they are walking in cardboard. They look miserable doing it too. The clothes look uncomfortable. Not sure what buyer wants to feel wrapped up in cardboard. However. there are some nice pieces.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Rich B!tch Zara

 

[vetements]

Had to really up the playback speed because the pacing I couldn't sit through at all. Makes the music more bearable too funnily enough.

The collection just feels really stiff, from the leather to the wool coats then to the knits. It wants to be something a little more womanly and mature akin to Philo's Celiné but it actually feels a bit oppressive. Adding the colder setting that they favour and the slowness this is just really glum to me.

Was curious what you meant until I watched the video. Painful to sit through it indeed. And annoyingly slow speed the models walked…you should only walk so slow if there is something to admire like the fabric or worksmanship but there isn’t any, just very pretentious, wannabe (original) Margiela clothes.

 

[Marc10]

I really love her brand but she needs lighten up a bit, starting to take herself way too serious with this asthere, cold aesthetic. Even the Joy Division soundtrack felt heavy-handed. Still, lots of really good pieces there.

 

[andrew]

i will say i appreciate the video just... starting... vs 30+ minutes of random celebrities finding their seats.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

There are a few nice things. I like how the pics came out on vogue!

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[lock70908]

The layering looks really nice, most brands can’t get that right and it just looks like they piled pieces on, but this looks really natural

 

[Beun]

Feels like an audition to replace the Meiers at JS... Where she would actually do a much better job!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I really love her brand but she needs lighten up a bit, starting to take herself way too serious with this asthere, cold aesthetic. Even the Joy Division soundtrack felt heavy-handed. Still, lots of really good pieces there.

Not sure if I might find myself in a minority with that, but to me it's perfectly fine if a designer takes you full-on into an austere, almost claustrophobic dark place - The Belgians and Japanese did that beautifully and with much conviction and to be honest, I would be happy to see somebody giving me a bit more than just politely commercial 'stuff' that tries to be appealing to everybody... which this honestly is and therefor doesn't feel authentic if she goes a route like that.

 

[LadyJunon]

Feels like an audition to replace the Meiers at JS... Where she would actually do a much better job!

Yes, seeing her reintroduce that undertone of sensuality that the Meiers have almost shunned would do JS some good.

Not sure if I might find myself in a minority with that, but to me it's perfectly fine if a designer takes you full-on into an austere, almost claustrophobic dark place - The Belgians and Japanese did that beautifully and with much conviction and to be honest, I would be happy to see somebody giving me a bit more than just politely commercial 'stuff' that tries to be appealing to everybody... which this honestly is and therefor doesn't feel authentic if she goes a route like that.

I believe that's mostly because the Belgians and the Japanese are masters of subversion in fashion. Both cultures are known for producing and celebrating designers that are avant-gardist, while keeping a foot in pragmatism.

The American fashion industry doesn't traditionally support that sort of idiosyncrasy, which is most likely why the US doesn't produce those sorts of designers and those who do, like Rick Owens, focus on European and Asian markets.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's the first of season with a new design director who was hired over from The Row.

I'm surprised none of you are calling out the obvious references to Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.

 

[LadyJunon]

It's the first of season with a new design director who was hired over from The Row.

I'm surprised none of you are calling out the obvious references to Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.

Now you mention it, I can definitely see it glaring at me.

 

[jeanclaude]

Rick Owens called, he wants his two moster-shoulders bomber jackets back!

 

[penny609]

Still turning my head upside-down to decide whether I definitely like it or not. Obviously it didn't hurt my eyes at first sight but I remain on the fence. What I see is nice to look at, it seems consistent and relevant, casting choices are appropriate etc. but I can't make up my mind at the end of the day.

 

[kikifoz]

In general there are very nice pieces and it looks well made. Very surface clothing... the usual Miuccia, Helmut, 90's Yohji, Carolyn Bessette references. The fur pants remind me of Isaac Mizrahi in Unzipped talking about Nanook of the North.

The RTW and accessories don't connect with each other making the looks seem a bit confused? Like they tried to find the best shoes and bags, but ended up settling for what was available.

The thing with Khaite and Proenza is that they're nice when they show, but you completely forget about them once Milan starts.