Lanvin Group - The Chinese Luxury Goods Conglomerate

[kasper!]

Brand Portfolio

APP:
Lanvin
St. John
Caruso

ACC:
Wolford

FTW:
Sergio Rossi

 

[kasper!]

Previously known as Fosun Group but they changed their name to Lanvin Group.

 

[Drusilla_]

huh I didn't know they owned so many brands besides Lanvin.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Hmm, does this mean I need to boycott St John and Wolford too? What is Madame Wang's involvement these days?

 

[LadyJunon]

Hmm, does this mean I need to boycott St John and Wolford too? What is Madame Wang's involvement these days?

Back in 2018, Lanvin was sold to Fosun Internation, a Chinese conglomorate, and became part of the newly-formed Fosun Fashion Group. Funny enough, b*tch Wang originally had a €400m deal with Mayhoola (owner of Valentino and Balmain) dating back to 2015, but pressure from minority shareholders, lack of funds and the Chinese government led to sell to Fosun for €45m. They rebranded to "Lanvin Group" in 2021 and went public the following year in aims of become China's first luxury group.

Currently, Wolford is the group's leading brand at €126m in annual revenue, but they plan on turning Lanvin in their cash cow. Lanvin currently sits in 2nd place at €112m. There were expectations of Lanvin's annual revenue reaching €264m in 2025, but I imagine that the 2-year gap between Sialleli's swan-song and Copping's debut severely hurt those chances.

 

[JohannesL]

It was such a pity that Mayhoola was unable to seal the deal with Wang. Going public would be the nail in the coffin for a brand like Lanvin if they only care about growth and stock price. Now I can feel the pressure on Copping if things don't work out. If the group has such a high expectation based on their IPO and the brand porfolio, good luck with them or they should just hire bet on a star designer!

 

[LadyJunon]

It was such a pity that Mayhoola was unable to seal the deal with Wang. Going public would be the nail in the coffin for a brand like Lanvin if they only care about growth and stock price. Now I can feel the pressure on Copping if things don't work out. If the group has such a high expectation based on their IPO and the brand porfolio, good luck with them or they should just hire bet on a star designer!

I agree. Lanvin Group has been doing very well in recent years (from €223m in 2020 to €426m in 2023) with the namesake brand tripling in sales during that period. That said, Lanvin Group is miniscule in comparison to most luxury groups, even smaller groups like Zegna and OTB bring in a couple billion a year. On top of that, their main brand, Lanvin, is in a state of transition. Sialleli departed in April 2023, Copping's contract starts in September, he'll probably show his debut in March with the first pieces arriving in July. The group doesn't need that pressure so early in its existence. If the group was bringing in €2-3b with Lanvin bringing in €600-800m, this move would make much more sense.

Here's a list of shareholders with at least 1% of shares:

Shareholder	Percentage	Field	Country
Fosun International	58.65	Parent Company	China
Natixis	05.46	Investement	France
Primavera Capital Acquisition	03.45	Investement	China
Aspex Management	03.10	Investement	China

 

[fashionista-ta]

I didn't even realize they'd hired Copping! A solid choice for once

 

[callmejaeden]

Lanvin Group Posts 20% Drop in Sales Amid Luxury Slowdown

Lanvin Group Posts 20% Drop in Sales Amid Luxury Slowdown​

The Lanvin and Sergio Rossi owner expects the year to remain challenging but is betting on a creative overhaul to reignite sales growth at the company.

Lanvin's store on New York City's Madison Avenue. (Lanvin)
By Malique Morris
26 August 2024



Lanvin Group’s revenue decreased 20 percent year over year to €171 million ($191 million) in the first half of 2024. The company, like many operators in the luxury sector, attributed its slowdown to lagging demand in China and Europe and disappointing sales with retail partners.
The group — which owns its flagship brand Lanvin, along with shoe maker Sergio Rossi, knitwear seller St. John and intimates brand Wolford — also generated a €42 million loss during the period as a result of the dip in sales. Lanvin’s revenue dropped 15 percent to €48 million, and Sergio Rossi’s revenue fell 38 percent percent to €20 million. It expects the slowdown to continue this year.
But Lavin Group is in the middle of a turnaround plan, starting with a creative overhaul. The company hired designer Peter Copping, who worked at Balenciaga, as artistic director at Lanvin starting in September, as well as Paul Andrew, former creative director at Ferragamo, as creative director at Sergio Rossi. The company also increased brand marketing to drum up excitement for its portfolio and drive sales in the coming months.
The group has already seen some improvements in the business. It said several of its brands, including Lanvin and St. John, generated more full price sales in the first half of the year. The company’s stock rose nearly 13 percent following its earnings release.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

So what about Itochu, Xizhi Capital amd Stella International? Are they share holders too?

Fosun Fashion Group Rebrands to Lanvin Group – Lanvin Group

www.lanvin-group.com

 

[callmejaeden]

Lanvin’s Siddhartha Shukla Discusses ‘Brand Framework,’ Future Plans​

The French house is sitting out the runway this season, but roaring ahead on future projects and a fresh campaign as it awaits the first collection by new creative director Peter Copping.

By MILES SOCHA
SEPTEMBER 24, 2024, 1:00AM

Raquel Zimmermann in the latest chapter of Lanvin's "Character Studies" campaign. STEVEN MEISEL

Lanvin plans to sit out the official Paris Fashion Week calendar this week — meaning no show, no press presentation and no reviews.

But the French house is gearing up on multiple fronts behind the scenes.

Peter Copping, who started earlier this month as artistic director, is working on his first collection for Lanvin for the fall 2025 season.

“The format and timing for its revelation is still under discussion,” said Siddhartha Shukla, deputy general manager of Lanvin. “At present, the plan is to stage two coed shows in 2025.”

Meanwhile, the house has just released the third installment of its “Character Studies” campaign by Steven Meisel, which debuted in 2022, telegraphing a quieter form of chic linked to Lanvin’s claim to fame as the oldest fashion house in Paris.

“The mood at Lanvin today is energetic, collaborative, hopeful,” said Shukla, who joined the French company from Theory at the end of 2021.

Siddhartha Shukla RICCARDO OLERHEAD

Since then, the brand has unveiled a rejiggered logo, initiated a comprehensive reset of its product strategy, accentuating leather goods and accessories, and unveiled special projects under the new Lanvin Lab banner, which has already logged collaborations with rapper Future and conceptual artist Erwin Wurm.

In an exclusive interview, Shukla gave an update on where Lanvin is at, and where it’s heading:

WWD: Many fashion houses undergo a clean sweep on products and image when a new creative director arrives. That doesn’t seem to be the case at Lanvin. Why?

Siddhartha Shukla: Setting a new direction for Lanvin was my objective — and a business imperative — from the start and something I had discussed at length with the owners before accepting the challenge to lead the house. There were important systemic and strategic issues to address, from the back of house to front, and there was no time to lose — so we hit the ground running. The return to Jeanne Lanvin’s “chic ultime” and the proposal of a new French sophistication are essential to the brand framework and informs all of our decisions and activities — from product and image to people. The cultural relevance of the house, the pace of the industry, the expectations of the market — all meant that the formative groundwork would be done in parallel with the search for a new creative leader.

WWD: How important are the Steven Meisel images in setting the tone for the house and expressing its style position?

S.S.: The work we have done with Steven Meisel is critically important in the establishment of a global visual standard and vocabulary for a new Lanvin. The “Character Studies” portraits were first released in 2022, shortly after the product reset was in place, and with this third chapter remain consistent in their photographic gesture, the showcase of individuals in their essence, the heralding of a new tribe of modern elegance and chic. Seen against the landscape of brand image today, I believe there is boldness in this valorization of the individual, in the photographic purity of the image, in the artistic direction and reimagined logo from M/M.

An image from Lanvin’s “Character Studies” series. STEVEN MEISEL

WWD: So we can assume Peter Copping aligned with the advertising imagery and its continuity?

S.S.: He is. We had discussed the campaigns and brand image prior to his nomination and we continue to do so as we imagine what will be next.

WWD: I understand Lanvin will go dark on reviews for its spring 2025 collections. Can you explain why?

S.S.: We have developed a summer collection that I am confident will be well-received by our clients and forms a strong continuity to the spring collection shown in June. Its critical reviews, however, seem unnecessary given Peter is in the house and actively at work on what will be a new silhouette and aesthetic proposal.

WWD: How has not having a creative director for more than a year impacted the Lanvin business and development?

S.S.: Not having an artistic director, despite the obvious challenges, presented the teams with an extraordinary opportunity to democratically showcase their talent, passion and commitment. As I said, we operate the house today within a clear framework that has given discipline and direction to the various functions collaborating as they keep the brand and business thriving.

WWD: What other changes might we anticipate with the arrival of Peter Copping as new creative director?

S.S.: The spirit of Lanvin will continue to be elaborated as modern couture and this will certainly find new expressions and life with Peter.

WWD: Lanvin Group’s first-half results release said Lanvin would be “aggressively executing initiatives to increase retail and digital traffic” through the balance of 2024. Can you be more specific?

S.S.: Like many of our competitors, we are working vigilantly to secure market share and power our business in a complex climate through calculated strokes of investment and prudence. We have fantastic products and exciting initiatives in the pipeline and campaigns to support them through the end of what has so far certainly been a challenging year.

WWD: Any update on your progress in leather goods and accessories, which are also a key development thrust?

S.S.: The continued success of our sneaker programs and the Cat bag family, as well as last year’s introduction of the iconic ballet flat, have delivered strong results to the category and a message to the marketplace. We have ambitious plans for leather goods and accessories that will be timed with the debut of Peter’s first collection next year.

Lanvin’s Cat bag in a new hobo shape.

wwd.com

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

He is still pushing Bruno's ugly sneakers and that cat bag? Why? Poor Peter
I doubt Peter can bring in Alex White or whoever, he sounds like a control freak. I bet Ludivine Poiblanc this general manager's BFF would still be in charge of the styling
And I hate the idea of showing men's and women's together

 

[fashionista-ta]

I feel a bit hopeful about this ...

 

[blueorchid]

He is still pushing Bruno's ugly sneakers and that cat bag? Why?

I think the cat bag is cute. I can’t wait to buy it heavily discounted from a reseller in a few years. 🐈‍⬛👜 🤭