Lanvin Parts Ways with Olivier Lapidus

[dodencebt]

As if we didn't see this one coming

Lanvin Parts Ways With Artistic Director, Names Interim CEO

PARIS — Lanvin is parting ways with its creative director Olivier Lapidus and general manager Nicolas Druz, in the first big moves by Fosun International since the Chinese conglomerate bought the French label last month.

Joann Cheng, president of Fosun Fashion Group and chairman of the board of directors of Lanvin, has been appointed chief executive officer of the house for an interim period, effective immediately.

Druz, who had led the brand since 2017, will take up the new position of managing director of Fosun Fashion Group, where he will support the group’s business expansion in Europe.

Lapidus, who showed his sophomore collection for the house during Paris Fashion Week last month, is exiting his role as artistic director with immediate effect. The women’s collections will be designed by an in-house team in the interim, and Lapidus will resume designing under his own brand.

“Olivier steered the maison through a transitional period between ownerships,” said Cheng. “We thank him for that, and wish him every success for his own brand and future endeavors.”

Cheng has more than 20 years’ experience in senior management, having served as the chief financial officer of Chinese technology firm DJI Innovations, finance director of private equity firm TPG and Greater China controller at GE Capital, the financial services unit of General Electric.

She will act as ceo during a transition period, after which a new permanent ceo will be appointed.

“Lanvin is a truly iconic and storied brand with immense potential,” Cheng said. “By being a part of the Fosun Fashion Group, Lanvin’s future growth can leverage resources from the expansive global platform of Fosun’s established companies and experts.”

The oldest French fashion house still in activity has seen sales erode since a peak of 235 million euros in 2012. In 2016, revenues fell 23 percent to 162 million euros, with a net loss of 18.3 million euros, marking its first red ink in nearly a decade.

“The re-launch of Lanvin with fresh talents, while adhering to the values that the brand has maintained since 1889, is fundamental to returning the maison to its rightful position at the top table of the world’s most lauded and innovative fashion houses,” Cheng added.

wwd.com

 

[jeanclaude]

Olivier "the fast one" Lapidus! Like the replacement car your insurance company lends you, until yours is ready again.

 

[Benn98]

Well, I for one am surprised and somewhat sorry they disposed of him so swiftly! I'm sure it was a great learning curve for him, and hopefully his own brand will benefit some hype from this short stint.

I doubt this new CEO will pander to Madame Wang's whims, I don't see this partnership lasting very long. Chinese oil and Taiwanese water don't mix all that well. They'll both agree that the brand need more of a presence in Asia, I'm sure.

 

[lelaid]

On one hand, THANK GOD. On the other hand, and I said this when Bouchra was fired, who on earth would want this job now?

 

[TaylorBinque]

This news makes my day. I think the with Fosun's management, it might increase some confidence for his replacement. Lanvin has potential. And if the reinvention of Gucci can tell something, they might want to turn this house up side down and position it a pure luxury player.

 

[Lola701]

As much as i would want a new name to revamp the brand, they need a star right now.
Lanvin has lot a lot of it luster in a short amount of time.

I would hire Frida Giannini. It's odd but i think that she could at least make people interested in Lanvin again and it could be a perfect way for her to reivent herself without having to deal with the weight of the previous designer.

I loved what Rodolfo Paglialunga did for Vionnet and he wasn't the best fit for Jil Sander. I would consider him also. Plus, he can do menswear and Lanvin menswear also need a reboot (as much as i like Lucas).

Peter Copping and even Guillaume Henry could work for Lanvin. What Henry did for Nina Ricci was confused but his work for Carven was great. Peter Copping's ladylike aesthetic is perfect for Lanvin even if he needs a little bit more edge.

They needs someone with a real distinctive aesthetic first. A strong vision will be reflected in sales.

 

[Scotty]

^ I feel like Frida's taste would be too Italian. I want her hired somewhere though. So many good designers out of work.

Hire Sophia K.! Where is she anyway?

 

[TaylorBinque]

Peter Copping with a help from edgier menswear would be great for the house. I love his aesthetic but if it needs to compete in the market, it needs to have some edges. Thought Lanvin menswear is doing very well, I think Lucas deserves to move on to bigger houses. He would be great at LV.

 

[Marc10]

I really have no idea what to expect cause I have no idea what direction the new owners want to take. I can only hope for the best, it can't get worse that what it is (I think )

 

[RedSmokeRise]

LOLOLOLOL. If Lucas is smart he'd abandon ship given the way Lanvin is going...

 

[Scouting Snapper]

wow big surprise ...

 

[Benn98]

My dream choice would be Theyskens. I think it's time for him to step into the spotlight again. Lanvin just need a strong, defined vision with cutting-edge designs to make it more relevant.
The stakes are high either way if it's a relatively new designer. Going youth and hyped will mean sleepless nights fretting over Gucci and Balenciaga....thats not even factoring in Burberry and Céline. And an understated approach will be pitted against Clare and Natacha.

Good luck!

 

[Lola701]

My dream choice would be Theyskens. I think it's time for him to step into the spotlight again. Lanvin just need a strong, defined vision with cutting-edge designs to make it more relevant.
The stakes are high either way if it's a relatively new designer. Going youth and hyped will mean sleepless nights fretting over Gucci and Balenciaga....thats not even factoring in Burberry and Céline. And an understated approach will be pitted against Clare and Natacha.

Good luck!

You know what, looking back at his work for Rochas, he could have been the perfect person for it. His Rochas days were for me his best work ever. I didn't really liked what he did for Ricci because it was so heavy handed and moody (not in the best way) even if it worked as a show.

But i really don't think that today his work will be relevant unless he reinvent totally himself like Galliano.

I think the weight of his glorious past and the pressure of not having being a successful designer at 2 parisian houses are against him. And above all, i don't want him to compromise again. He can do wonderful clothes but that's not enough.

I hope they will go for modern glamour. I think this is the best way to stand out today. And as you mentionned Olivier, i'm thinking why not Giles Deacon?


Anyway, the biggest challenge will be for the new owners to let the designer have a total creative control.

It's interesting that no one of us is mentionning a young, english designer.

 

[Nomar]

Good riddance! I'm interested to see who will take his place though because with all these unexpected designer swaps, who knows who it could be.

 

[Pricciao]

Ya know. There's enough Chinese designers queing up out there. I wouldn't be surprised there'll be some hype going on next couple of months.

 

[caioherrero]

Well, I for one am surprised and somewhat sorry they disposed of him so swiftly! I'm sure it was a great learning curve for him, and hopefully his own brand will benefit some hype from this short stint.

I doubt this new CEO will pander to Madame Wang's whims, I don't see this partnership lasting very long. Chinese oil and Taiwanese water don't mix all that well. They'll both agree that the brand need more of a presence in Asia, I'm sure.

Is Madame Wang so bad? Why everyone fear her?

 

[HeatherAnne]

Throw all of the money at Pilati (actually don't think he'd ever come back to the circus).

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I don't care who it, as long as they have a strong point of view and an original vision. I think that Roskanda would do wonders at Lanvin. She has an eye for color, and she does volumes like no one else. Her clothes are feminine and pretty, but not boring or precious. I would love to see what she could do on a larger scale.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Is Madame Wang so bad? Why everyone fear her?

Yes.

 

[anlabe32]

Throw all of the money at Pilati

That would be a dream come true. We need him.