Lanvin Pre-Fall 2016

I don't hate it. It's sad to see Alber Elbaz go-a lot of you are definitely butt hurt, though you may think otherwise. I'm excited to see the direction this brand goes in over the next few years.
 
Well, I can certainly see where the 'hot mess' comment is coming from, though clearly a lot of effort went into this. I thought look 3 was strong (only time I had that thought). There is certainly a stronger vibe of Chloe than of Lanvin. I do see several looks referencing the Lanvin of the recent past, and there you can really see Alber's strength is gone. The draping, use of ruffles, one shoulder, etc. are just a weak shadow of the past.

The accessories seem stronger than the clothes. Some good boots and bags.
 
Who will wear these clothes? With Alber Elbaz it was always perfectly clear who the Lanvin customer was, this collection I find it hard to imagine on anybody. The messy styling does not help either
 
^^^ ^^^ As a statement, I get the attraction from some even though it’s way too 80s-doing-the-30s theme costume-y for my taste. Just way too excessive. Someone needs to learn to edit with this team.

As high fashion designs for their customers, it’s mostly unflattering. Even as elaborate and yes, mistress_f, tacky as Alber’s efforts have been at times, his sense of color and the luxury component was always strongly present. The color-palette here is so schizo and weak, and the patterns look cheap. It's like a raggedy patchwork of everything in hopes that something works. And some thing do work— just not all together. Sheesh, it’s like that kooky chick that wears all the jewelry she owns at once.
 
I don't hate it. It's sad to see Alber Elbaz go-a lot of you are definitely butt hurt, though you may think otherwise. I'm excited to see the direction this brand goes in over the next few years.

Don't presume you can speak for all of us - you can't. This is the same mentality that haunts the post-Galliano Dior threads...that just because every other person's opinion isn't praising Raf's work it is automatically because there's a longing for Galliano. Even at Alber's worst, his collections weren't this bad (and he's been pretty bad lately).
 
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Who will wear these clothes? With Alber Elbaz it was always perfectly clear who the Lanvin customer was, this collection I find it hard to imagine on anybody. The messy styling does not help either


You make a good point. I have to say I don't know anyone whose pants pool on the floor (perhaps they're all in hospital after injuring themselves, so we haven't met ...).
 
Very charitable review from WWD ...


Lanvin Pre-Fall 2016

By Laurent Folcher
Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale, who have taken over design duties while the company searches for a permanent replacement for Alber Elbaz, showed a flamboyant, risky pre-fall collection.


Chemena Kamali and Lucio Finale have very big shoes to fill at Lanvin, heading a new team of designers to temporarily replace Alber Elbaz, ousted in October after a stellar 14-year tenure. The company’s chief executive Michèle Huiban introduced Kamali, women’s wear designer, and Finale, in charge of bags and shoes, at a preview in Paris of the pre-fall collection. The pair will also design the fall 2016 runway while the company searches for a new creative director.

Kamali showed immediate confidence and polish, delivering a flamboyant, risky collection. Though she joined Lanvin from Chloé just a few weeks before Elbaz’s exit, she echoed his parlance about the customer. “She is about fun and likes to express herself — she is a real woman,” Kamali said, pointing out a few iconic Lanvin items including a sculpted mustard satin tunic constructed with graphic darts and worn over fluid black pants and stretch lace T-shirt.

Yet this was hardly a purely reverential collection, as the designer also cited recent retro subcultures as influences, specifically the New Romantics, who, in the early Eighties New Wave period in London, dressed in various historical and romantic themes. To that end, Kamali went soft with frills, which she sometimes paired with voluminous tailoring for an offbeat slouchy attitude. She worked with ample velvet and lace — familiar elements from her Chloé days — as well as an eyelet embroidery for a white cotton shirt with frilled collar and cuffs that peeked out from a rubberized black cotton trench. Patchwork was another motif, rendered variously in men’s necktie fabrics worked into appealing blouses and dresses, and furs, including a quirky fox in spray-dyed in hues of yellow, blue and pink.

Accessories, meanwhile, were opulent. Finale invoked the house iconography, employing the Lanvin mother-and-daughter logo medallion on some handbags and using Lanvin’s signature blue for bag linings and shoes soles. He also continued bag designs he sees developing into house icons. One example: the Gigi, shown in various sizes and finishes, including a patchwork of python. He went new as well, with daringly mixed metallic finishes and new hobo style bag with bronze studs and a dyed agate stone charm dangling in front.
It all made for an interesting debut pulsing with bravado, particularly for pre-fall. On the upside, the designers displayed an impressive fearlessness while delivering some very appealing clothes and accessories. But there were some awkward moments of proportion and cut. And Kamali in particular charted too many different directions — some of them foreign to the Lanvin aesthetic Elbaz defined. Come March, it will be her challenge to make a clearer statement about keeping some legacy — or just turning a new page.
 
OMG ! I hate this ! But in a point they don't have any creative director so the both person in charge of the creations are just following what is in the trend now. So this collection has a Celino-Gucciesque lazy Louis Vuitton, deep depression in jail Celine cheap way.
 
^^ This is true. This Lanvin is just trying to keep up with the others. Chloe girls with Ghesquiere styling and Hawkesworth photograph. Some looks are nice but Lanvin should stand on its own.
 
businessoffashion

^^ This is true. This Lanvin is just trying to keep up with the others. Chloe girls with Ghesquiere styling and Hawkesworth photograph. Some looks are nice but Lanvin should stand on its own.


Agreed ... I think part of the reason Lanvin has been important is that it was part of fashion, but also apart from fashion.


I was just reading Colin McDowell's 2010 interview, where I thought he summed it up well ...


Well known is the story of Balenciaga's reaction to a journalist whose enquiry about his “new ideas” for the coming season elicited the cold reply, “Madam, I never have new ideas.” Diana Vreeland once told me, referring to Seventh Avenue in the 1970s, that “modern designers think they need ideas. But they are wrong. All they need is a point of view.” In many ways, Elbaz’s way of working at Lanvin reflects the stance of both Balenciaga and Vreeland. He does not think each season must be a new start, or a fresh awakening. Indeed, he resists the ebb and flow of fashion in favour of developing his own ideas, incrementally, over long periods of time.

I also find it strongly dissonant that the dominant codes in the collection are Chloe's. IMO a skilled designer does distinctly different things for different houses. Ghesquiere at Balenciaga vs. Vuitton. Lagerfeld at Chanel vs. Fendi.


Well, this designer wasn't hired for a head role, and I'm sure is doing her best. He is indeed, as everyone's said, a hard act to follow.
 
It just leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Good luck trying to find someone as good as Alber. He made this brand what it is.
 
I wouldn't say it's a disaster. I see some good ideas but as a whole it's not good.
I think the biggest problem are the cheap looking fabrics and prints.
 
I see a lot of Hannah McGibbonesque styling in this, but Hannah was way better at cutting a good pair of pants. The pants here are very sloppy and need to be tailored and hemmed. The ideas are fun and interesting, but the execution is subpar especially considering Elbaz was a master cutter and tailor.
 
I see a lot of Hannah McGibbonesque styling in this, but Hannah was way better at cutting a good pair of pants. The pants here are very sloppy and need to be tailored and hemmed. The ideas are fun and interesting, but the execution is subpar especially considering Elbaz was a master cutter and tailor.

Agree. Unfortunately fashion tends to be gravitating more and more towards this sloppy oversized tailoring look. It's an embarrassing time for clothes.
 
OMG! Resaw it in HD and I'm impressed! This is the best Lanvin collection in YEARS and it's just a prefall. It's super great! Sellable and basic as a prefall should be, but it has really good points. Kamali really knows how to work with the fabrics. Everything makes sense... The fur looks stunning, the trench coats are uhhhmazing and the dresses and pants are really nice.
 
why do new, young designers have this issue with overstyling their looks? it's not even all bad, just horribly styled.
 
I love it:heart: I rarely like so many items from one collection.
 

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