Lanvin Resort 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Norden]

There’s some really beautiful womenswear looks, I like those large volumes with those delicate shoes, it makes for a nice contrast.

I dislike the palazzo(?) pants on the mens looks. Lanvin is getting a bit better collection by collection, it’s still lacking a strong art direction though - the clothes seem very nice but it’s lacking a mood or something.

 

[StylishCynic]

Some VERY interesting tidbits from the Vogue Runway review:

Lanvin is restructuring its direction. Starting with the pre-collection you see in these pictures, the house is rethinking its strategy for products across categories and building a comprehensive wardrobe for the contemporary woman and man. That sort of marketing jargon isn’t what you’d expect from a designer, and sure enough, Creative Director Bruno Sialelli wasn’t present during an appointment in Paris the morning after the men’s shows.

“He’s still very much part of this reset and aligned with the creative approach,” the brand’s Deputy General Manager Siddhartha Shukla explained.

The pre-collection— which reflects the direction Sialelli will expand on going forward— was designed by the Lanvin studio.

So... Lanvin is resetting their creative direction, and it's not being led by the creative director. Interesting.

 

[THD96]

Based on this company history, I just hoped that Bruno will stay with Lanvin for at least the next 3 years. They finally have a direction, people finally have an interest in Lanvin again. They can't risk another CD switch now or they'll end up like Carven.

I guessed that Bruno will only focus on doing 2 co-ed shows a year and let the pre-collections for the studio.
The strategy is nothing new, Marc Jacobs designed any pre-collections during his time at LV. But it makes sense for LV since they are big machines, they afford can to do that. Lanvin's operation is still quite small so we'll see how it goes.

As for the collection, it's quite nice. The menswear is equally as strong as the womenswear and less juvenile too. The first coat is beautiful.

 

[Avonlea]

If studio team can design a collection like this maybe they should get rid of Bruno, its better than anything he has done.

 

[WAVES]

it starts SO STRONG I was wishing it was Womenswear only!

some of the mens looks are strong but the ends leaves us wanting.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's not bad at all but it's not great.

Bruno Sialelli is a very talented designer although I haven't cared for his last couple of collections. I guess his bosses haven't either.

I'm hopeful he can punch it up and find his footing but it sounds like he's on his way out.

Their new strategy only works if it has strong marketing support. I'm not holding my breath for them to get it together.

Sounds like Lanvin is extending its stay in fashion purgatory indefinitely.

 

[perhydrol]

It feels so weird that now they want to leave pre-collections to the design team because I don't think it makes sense for a brand their size. Furthermore, I know it's only a resort collection but it's such a drastic change of their aesthetics, again. Sialelli tried to make a good use of their archives and mix them with nice, slightly eccentric pieces. Now, it seems that this "new direction" will be focused on a much more minimal approach to the clothing and it's incredibly confusing. I don't know, it feels like they are already preparing to let Bruno go and just operate without any creative director.