it's good, and some of the fur pieces are ravishing but I think, however that there's a couple of problems:
1 is that the intend to build a tough-woman attitude is a bit out of balance and it makes the whole thing more rough than sophisticated. paradoxically this tough woman he's created seems overwhelmed by the power(leather)suits she is wearing.
2 he has the same problem that his predecessors had. he seems to respect the houses heritage so much, that he is afraid to play more with it. he knows he has some of the best leathers in his hands, and he feels forced to use them. this, that isn't per se a problem, becomes one when he tries to just showcase the leather on rather plain cut dresses. I understand that this may be one of the best ways to appreciate the materials exceptional quality. however, I get the feeling that there should be more added value to them. in a way,i think of this as I remember rick Owens' Revillon collections. when he was in charge of them, he was given a huge savoir faire and the responsibility to relaunch a classic maison. he coulve of course done big bold fox coats from head to toe, but I guess that isn't the reason why you put someone like him at the helm of the house,is it?
Loewe has huge potential. It is to Spain what Hermes is to France and bottega is to Italy...it's just that the brands management hasn't been "ideal".
i so want it to get some real relevance and be contemplated as a modern and puissante fashion house