Loewe F/W 2022.23 Paris

Forty or so looks in and I'm in love with it.
 
Jonathan Anderson keeps surpassing himself each collection and wowing all of us at the same time. He seems to be getting more relaxed and playful as seasons go by and this time it wasn't different, with toy cars and stilettos popping up underneath the clothes, dresses embedded with lips, nice punctuations of fur in some garments, just another one of his many highlights for the House of Loewe.
 
Invariably, Loewe is a mixed bag of experimental and half-baked ideas that walk the thin line between the surreal and the gratuitous (or plain silly), not always successfully.
This is the genius that our creatively poor times can afford, and we try to make us like it.

Good luck with the sphincter-like lip print numbers.
 
Rarely these days does a show inspire me to spend real time pouring over the details, but this one did. Almost none of this is what I'd consider to my taste, but the combination of wacky and sophistication is just so fun. Really enjoying Loewe lately.
 
I must say, I didn't really enjoy it and the more looks were presented, the more tired I felt. The previous collection felt much lighter and honest, this one felt like a desperate attempt to keep the momentum. Some ideas could have been edited out and nobody would be sad about that, I mean the grey lip dress that looks like a rectal disease, or the tortured car dresses, they were all too much. What's good is that Jonathan tries to evolve with those surreal ideas from spring/summer collection, but this time it was too much, and it got too weird and too heavy-handed for my taste. At least he dares to do something unexpected, but he really needs do edit.
 
No doubt This easily become my favorite collection of the entire month.

With Loewe women, Jonathan always find the perfect balance between creativity and practicality. And his experimental always look fun and not tortured.

I really like the Trompe-l'œil prints especially on those leather cropped capes, and the balloon bras are really fun. I love that he push it even further by wrapped the heels around the body of the dresses.

But my favorite section is the evening gowns but with his twists. The hands dress on Julia Nobis is my favorite look, i was mesmerized when I saw it on her. And the dress with the orange stripes on the side is also fabulous.

I love that despite being in a corporate brand, Jonathan still willing to try something and unexpected. He is using decorative as a way to express his creativity, but he still remember to deliver greats products to please his bosses.
 
I'm not sure how I feel about this. It's quite amazing that as wild as some of his ideas might be, he still somehow manages to make them look quite wearable. While there are some genuinely great and clever looks here, there are some that are also just ridiculous.
 
He is my favorite designer of the moment, for sure. While some looks are definitely not my taste, I appreciate the fashion commitment. So many pieces to die for, such as the beautiful overcoat and the dresses on Julia and Serena. Feels very London, though.
 
The highlight for me were the leggings with the calla lilies shape opening and of-course the balloon shoes! Bravo JWA!
 
I'm not exactly sure what to think, to be honest. My gut says I don't hate it. Time will tell.
 
This makes me feel like Kim Basinger in "Ready To Wear", where she runs around PFW, TRYING to make sense of it all, and at the end, she finally breaks down & calls it out for being a boatload of stupid crap.

Luckily, this isn't available anywhere within a 200 mile radius from me, so I'm safe from it all. :nuke:
 
half of it i love - the lips dresses, the shoes inside the dresses, the draping and the silhouettes are fantastic. great colour palette too.

but the other half ... the furry pieces, sneakers, most of the bags.. not so keen
 
Here in Spain Loewe was considered "the spanish Hermès". The customers tended to be conservative/right wing people, with very classic style.

I can´t picture them dressed as runaway clowns from a freak circus show.
 
I like the most commercial pieces, the looks with the pants and the dress with the printed hands.
I like those because I think JWA is actually stronger as a commercial designer than whatever « experimental » he is trying to do.

Good commercial is difficult to do. Fake experimental not so much…

The magic of last season didn’t translate here.
 

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