Loewe Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

I always get really annoyed when designers work at more than one house/label and have the collections look the same, especially if one is their own eponymous label. It shows they have zero adaptable sensibilities but it also highlights how easy it is to appeal to certain masses because at the same time, it works and sells but for the most over hyped reasons.

It has been a strange regression from JW’s start to where he is now at Loewe. The team obviously changed but he’s also gotten lazier. There are some okay things in here, but they’re not really worth the time or highlighted well because of how much this all repeats itself. He’s become very Duchampian (or more so than usual) and it’s really just a huge waste.
 
I do have a soft spot for JWA, but I need to give this one some time to sink in a bit. This particular artist collab is not my cup of tea, and I don’t see mass appeal beyond some niche media moments for the collab pieces.

That said, I believe he mentioned somewhere that he’s had these few years mapped out during the pandemic, and it’s a pleasure to step back and appreciate the progression of the collections in this current cycle.
 
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I don't get this mentality: If he was to design Baby Dior, would you expect him to get dressed in baby clothes? This is his imagination, not his reality. 😆
But the reality is that he is dressing other adult men, like him (not babies). If you want to sell your clothes, the first step is to show that you trust in your vision. There are several designers who show trust in what they design, as to wear it in their personal lives: Yamamoto, Owens, Ford...

If you don´t dare to wear the mens clothes you design, you are sending a contradictory message.
 
But the reality is that he is dressing other adult men, like him (not babies). If you want to sell your clothes, the first step is to show that you trust in your vision. There are several designers who show trust in what they design, as to wear it in their personal lives: Yamamoto, Owens, Ford...

If you don´t dare to wear the mens clothes you design, you are sending a contradictory message.
Tbh most designers dress extremely normally, to the point of banality. They don't wear things they designed or anything like that. Mcqueen, Gaultier, Ghesquiere etc
 
Definitely agree that there needs to be an elevation of the Loewe man vs JWA man, as his collections then start to blend into one. Also agree that some of the suiting was a highlight!! Other than that overall it was still amongst one of the stronger collections from Paris.
 
If you look real hard you can find some decent separates but as a whole its too randomly thrown together that it looks like rejects from Thrift donations.
 
who needs shirts or innerwear during fall/winter.. not loewe men. he is probably from russia and made of bear skin. i thought i was watching a collection from le shirtless or le body
 
Tbh most designers dress extremely normally, to the point of banality. They don't wear things they designed or anything like that. Mcqueen, Gaultier, Ghesquiere etc

McQueen and Gaultier worn clothes designed by them (although McQueen also worn a lot of Comme des Garçons). In small brands it is different; but when you are representing a high brand like Loewe, as its creative director, you must project a certain image too.
 
Tbh most designers dress extremely normally, to the point of banality. They don't wear things they designed or anything like that. Mcqueen, Gaultier, Ghesquiere etc
But I think in JWA’s case, it’s a step further because he doesn’t look like someone who will wear those designs anyway.
Nicolas has a style that is coherent to what he is presenting. Gaultier at some point was the best ambassador of his menswear. Lee embodied his brand (even if he looked hot in savile row suits).
What would be interesting is to see the style of the people at Loewe because I think celebrities don’t wear Loewe well or don’t look good in it (stylists trying to put people on It pieces instead of having them look stylish).
When you see Marie Amelie Sauve or Florent Buonomano (or even his sister) in Nicolas’s clothes, you have a different appreciation of his work.
 
This is not his strongest collection.

There are some looks here that I loooove, but the whole collection is not a success.

Highlights for me are the following:
The ripple shearling shirt jacket, leather pants and frye boots look
The rawhide shirt jacket, jeans and keds look
The mint green oxford and black track pants look
The beaded graffiti hoodie, black python jeans and frye boots look

He really could benefit from using more mature looking models…and I don’t mean a guy with grey hair, but I really think he needs more tension with the casting…I want to see a model like Tyson Ballou-circa-2005 shirtless on the Loewe runway, not a skinny 15 year old with an acne breakout.
 

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