Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella

[LadyJunon]

 

[WAVES]

now, this was a hard watch.
well, it definitely was.. how can I put it lightly… terrible.

some of the skirts were interesting as were some of the tops but the ugly looks overtook whatever was left of good design. WTF is going on with Nicholas?
not to mention the Loewe looks… you don’t need this, dear.

the bags looked good, I guess.

also, nice try with the dresses at the end

 

[Salvatore]

Hold on, please. Wasn’t there just a show a month or so ago ? Same gripe I had with Dior is the same I have here. This collection has more interesting pieces, but was this really necessary ?

Dresses at the end remind of Dior PAP FW 2004.

 

[ReneSanchez]

da fuq is the only thing that comes to my mind after seeing this.
Can completely understand why the LV ambassadors mostly wear custom looks.

 

[Nimsay]

I find it hard to believe this man is being considered for Chanel.

 

[THD96]

I like it.

I like that just like the show at Salk Institute last year he decided to do something strong and bold for a commercial collection that will stay in the store the longest.
And I always love when Nicolas plays with different materials and textures.
The nautical theme, the scuba-inspired, and the neoprene (especially look 35 & 36) are a nice throwback to his Balenciaga days.
My favorite pieces are the sequins skirts, and the outerwear is also great. And the final dresses added a nice touch of whimsical to the collection.

The only thing I don't like in this collection is the shoes. I don't like the shapes of those white boots. He needs a new shoe designer on his team.

Overall, the location, the music, and the collection work together well. Another success for me.

 

[Malaya]

First half reminds me a lot of his Spring 2018 and Cruise 2019 output. I like the last 5 dresses at the end.

 

[Page666]

Another show from Louis Vuitton! A Nicolas proposal is still the consistently strongest and daring out there of the big houses..He proposes fashion technique silhouette taste with mastery like no other… Love it or hate it, he never fails to keep your watching and thinking about clothes….

 

[Lola701]

Interesting collection!
It was a laboratory of ideas. The collection had a lot of ideas even if quite literal IMO.

In a weird way, it works because it’s quite obvious to see how some of those ideas will be translated in stores. They surprised me by how they have been able to produce the RTW, even in small quantities. The Asian market will love this!

The neoprene in the beginning was quite interesting and reminded me of course of his Balenciaga collections. There was something very FW08 about the painted jackets.

I love the capes and outerwear. The oversized bomber reminiscent of his 2019 Vuitton collection in look 12 is exquisite.

The feathers headwear and other very strong ones were very Helmut Lang/Mugler and Montana. And there’s something very Gaultier about those wet suits in general.

Looks 7 and 9 were really atrocious tho. Plus I think the sweatshirts with the sheer panels were weak and I’m not convinced by the drapés two tones dresses, even if I think their commercial version would be amazing. I particularly despise the pirate boots but I imagine that you can reference the sea without it I guess…

For me the real fabulous moment of the collection was the flou! Amazing flou from Nicolas with the very fluid dresses that are embroidered. There’s a very Art-Nouveau feel to the embroidery chosen! Look 25 is probably one of the best dress he designed since the Art Nouveau collection!
And then those layers of light embroidered shirts towards the end… Exquisite! The jacquard pants, The bags and sneakers are also fabulous!

I don’t know what to think of the gowns towards the end. They are impressive in terms of dressmaking and how the evokes a certain lightness while obviously being very « worked on » but they needs to be edited to be worn IMO.

I’m very excited to see how they are going to translates the fish scales paillettes in the commercial collection!

Hold on, please. Wasn’t there just a show a month or so ago ? Same gripe I had with Dior is the same I have here. This collection has more interesting pieces, but was this really necessary ?

Dresses at the end remind of Dior PAP FW 2004.

The show last month was Prefall. The prefall is hitting the stores at the end of June. It was designed months ago but it’s part of Pietro Beccari strategy. It can confuse the random consumer I think.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

My inner gamer nerd thoroughly enjoys the Final Fantasy X to XIII, maybe even XV, of it all.

Hate those sheer panelled sweaters and the drawstring necklines. Very student fashion collection from a trade school from 2008-2012 so they look rather cheap especially in the neoprene like materials which can sometimes be hard to look luxe in such flat paneling.

The shoes are also a no. Pirate/scrunch boot meets UGG which are just ungodly. Something sleeker even it is flat would have paired far better. Not more sneakers though.

But I actually like a lot of this and I'd be very interested to see how this translates into "RTW"/store ready pieces. It is very experimental for a good chunk of the collection - especially those gowns - so would be keen to see how it looks when brought into the shop floor space. I still think it is very heavy handed, but this time I can see the reality of it all which can be hard with a lot of Nicolas' LV collections as of late.

The sequin/paillette (glass?) bag paired with look 7 is also rather gorgeous. In fact, the LV atelier's way with sequins and paillettes under Nicolas is pretty extraordinary and I commend them for that alone. Fulfills a satisfaction that Prada Fall 2011's use of them also does.

 

[Nimsay]

7.0/10


I like it because there are lots of new ideas. I think the opening was really clever translations of sea creatures in a practical way. The grey jacket with the webbing between arms and torso and coordinated skirt was an vision. The rest of sea section was pretty great. The paperbag hem doesnt work in the looks right after.

The best looks imo are the feathered skirts with the round hemmed shirt. Lovely really.

The plisse geant dresses are glorious construction but pretty uneventful. The stuff right after seems like filler with two sweatshirts with a sheer strip.

Loved the two capes shown.
The quilted section was pretty cool but unwearable. Wish we got more of this section.

I really need to see the finale gowns w the crazy peplum in person to fully grasp them. I dont think theyre that bad. It seems to be an a line. Louis Vuitton wants French fashion and those finale dresses - particularly the pale pink are like fois gras of fashion. Only a sophisticate could appreciate them.


I really think NG is locked in like Karl at Fendi. Hes finally now just shaping LV codes into that French Avant Garde look that I guess the suits want.

 

[Kennnnn]

You can take many of these looks apart and wear them as they are with jeans, a simple white shirt, etc. A solid collection, and probably one of the few that you can sort of draw a direct creative line to his later Balenciaga collections. Bravo.

 

[Urban Stylin]

I like the sea inspiration and a couple of looks have that nice balance of fashion ans street soo they'll make good additions to peoples wardrobes in the real world. A few of the looks however look like clown suits like the second look and a particular jumpsuit. Nowadays runway shows lack any charisma its just good locations and an army of uninterested models and a dizzying soundtrack. I always end up moving to the finale to se all the clothes.

 

[Norden]

I like it but I wish it was cleaner. There’s always this messiness with his output (since Vuitton) and I find that it distracts from really beautiful things. At balenciaga it seemed more focused and pure, which ofcourse fits the house. His Vuitton seems more hodge podge.

 

[Lola701]

I like it but I wish it was cleaner. There’s always this messiness with his output (since Vuitton) and I find that it distracts from really beautiful things. At balenciaga it seemed more focused and pure, which ofcourse fits the house. His Vuitton seems more hodge podge.

Budgets were tight at Balenciaga. He had to edit…
I also think that the scales at Vuitton are so high that in order to filter those ideas into the many capsule collections, he needs to make more mistakes.
The bags and the shoes will make it to the stores as they are but for the clothes, except for the clients who pre-orders, they will go through alterations/different versions..

‘I have to say that in the landscape of fashion, someone like Nicolas is refreshing. He is doing his thing and it creates conversations in fashion. It’s not always practical but it’s needed.

‘I feel like CDG doesn’t even give that today because there’s this consensus that CDG is great regardless so what’s the point.

We look at all the big brands that used to drive the industry, only Loewe and Vuitton are willing to push things forward.

 

[Tchi]

I don’t love this collection, it feels not cohesive and tired at times.
Individual pieces though are spectacular, this is p*rn for a designer like me who loves cut and technique.
Just how much does it speak to a wider public? I love Gesquiere but I have the feeling he is losing touch with a shared imaginary and he just keeps talking to the same smaller and smaller audience.
Is he still relevant? I would say yes, but with reserves.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[lhhbl]

didn't like it. some nice isolated pieces here and there with some cute bags and nicely cut and well made coats and 1 or 2 dresses but this was not a good show.
such a waste of this beautiful set and I can't stand Loli Bahia on runways anymore. She clearly hates it, she is never comfortable, and should stick with what she does a little better (photos)

 

[avonlea002]

It's ugly but at the same time it's so well made that I can't help but love it.