Louis Vuitton Cruise 2024 Isola Bella

[Deleted member 7575]

Vuitton is a 20 billion dollar plus business a year… I think that anyone who takes on Vuitton and master it has to appeal to a variety of ages and have mass appeal .. Balenciaga was a very tight proposal.. The shows were pure fashion statement and enabled him to leapfrog the fashion ladder to become the show of paris when other brands had bigger budgets…the job at Vuitton is like a Picasso after his blue period… he had the opportunity to please himself as his design language and codes of his work are so recognizable and he doesn’t have have to limit himself to a specific pastime/lifestyle.. (like lets say Hedi does with his rock n roll fan base or a singular silhouette)… Nicolas can appeal to a Bridget Macron and a Grimes, dress Catherine Deneuve and a Jaden Smith.. that is a major feat.. his proposals are now broader than ever.. that’s why his shows appeal to so many people and probably why we as onlookers are divided about which parts of a collection are deemed ugly and infantile or which bits are too conservative and not fashion forward enough.. there is variety..

Touche

 

[Overindulgence]

Some nice ideas and looks. I think the collection will grow on me.

Once again, with sleeker shoes (such as heeled boots) and better casting, the collection could appear stronger.

While I love those closing dressings, I'm annoyed by the raw hem at the bottom of them.

 

[Kennnnn]

I keep returning to this collection, for some reason. I think it great that it's sparking a dialogue here, with all kinds of informed opinions. I wonder if the feathered headdresses reminded anyone of Corinne Day's portraits of a very young Kate Moss at the beach, for The Face? If they really were a reference for Ghesquiere, I imagine he was trying to capture something of that youthful, carefree 90s spirit.

 

[Steddycam91]

I also keep returning to this collection. I'm reminded a bit of his Cruise 2016 collection for the house, which also felt looser and more random and idiosyncratic. Juxtaposition is the most insufferable/overused term, but it really is interesting to see the juxtapositions of earthy and synthetic, historical and futuristic in these clothes. This dress is amazing. And I'm sure Emma Stone will wear a modified/toned-down version of one of those finale gowns to a premiere later this year.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think ultimately Ghesquiere's LV is more costume than fashion.

The clothes are a backdrop to the bags.

And I guess that's fine even though I preferred it when he proposed real clothes to wear.

 

[WAVES]

it is amazing indeed that we are allowed to share and discuss our ideas so freely, especially about a topic who’s so dear to us all here.

I gave it a really good deliberation, because everyone’s opinion here added so many insightful thoughts in my head that I had to argue and debate also with myself about my own ideas, so thank you all for that.

this said and apparently after all, my biggest problem with Nicolas might be that I put him on a pedestal. and he’s only human.
(as I did with Lee and Galliano. even with Karl, and with some others at some point. Tisci, Costa…)

anything he did in the past i.e. his tenure at Balenciaga, was always seen (by me that is), as avant la lettre. it was challenging, groundbreaking. it broke the molde. he kept delivering collection after collection and it was all cohesive and solid.
nowadays, whereas he’s still bringing brilliant interpretations it lacks that cohesion and dare I say power.

 

[Page666]

it is amazing indeed that we are allowed to share and discuss our ideas so freely, especially about a topic who’s so dear to us all here.

I gave it a really good deliberation, because everyone’s opinion here added so many insightful thoughts in my head that I had to argue and debate also with myself about my own ideas, so thank you all for that.

this said and apparently after all, my biggest problem with Nicolas might be that I put him on a pedestal. and he’s only human.
(as I did with Lee and Galliano. even with Karl, and with some others at some point. Tisci, Costa…)

anything he did in the past i.e. his tenure at Balenciaga, was always seen (by me that is), as avant la lettre. it was challenging, groundbreaking. it broke the molde. he kept delivering collection after collection and it was all cohesive and solid.
nowadays, whereas he’s still bringing brilliant interpretations it lacks that cohesion and dare I say power.

do you think the power is lost because your eyes are desensitized with age and experience? If you were a 16/17 year old looking at fashion runway images for the first time maybe these collections would have more power….

 

[Deleted member 7575]

do you think the power is lost because your eyes are desensitized with age and experience? If you were a 16/17 year old looking at fashion runway images for the first time maybe these collections would have more power….

I think about this a lot.

I think this is partly the case but as a rule of thumb, most designers do peak and plateau. Very few are able to sustain their creativity and urgency as they age.

 

[WAVES]

do you think the power is lost because your eyes are desensitized with age and experience? If you were a 16/17 year old looking at fashion runway images for the first time maybe these collections would have more power….

no.
I wasn’t 16/ 17 either when I first saw Nicola’s designs for Balenciaga.

my sense of taste has evolved but I’m still drawn to whatever’s original, progressive, out of the box, rebellious even. it just has to be exquisitely made. and, on my eyes: beautiful.

if my eyes were desensitised, I wouldn’t be going often to modern or contemporary art exhibitions which are my favourites, I wouldn’t be watching any new series or films, I wouldn’t be listening to new music and so on and so forth. this desensitisation wouldn’t apply just in fashion if that was the case.

I still continue to be goodly impressed by whatever I find good either it is right now or in 100 years, I’m pretty sure.

 

[caioherrero]

Anyone knows why they did two differents shows?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It's two different seasons

Anyone knows why they did two differents shows?

 

[Page666]

no.
I wasn’t 16/ 17 either when I first saw Nicola’s designs for Balenciaga.

my sense of taste has evolved but I’m still drawn to whatever’s original, progressive, out of the box, rebellious even. it just has to be exquisitely made. and, on my eyes: beautiful.

if my eyes were desensitised, I wouldn’t be going often to modern or contemporary art exhibitions which are my favourites, I wouldn’t be watching any new series or films, I wouldn’t be listening to new music and so on and so forth. this desensitisation wouldn’t apply just in fashion if that was the case.

I still continue to be goodly impressed by whatever I find good either it is right now or in 100 years, I’m pretty sure.

forgive me.… no

no.
I wasn’t 16/ 17 either when I first saw Nicola’s designs for Balenciaga.

my sense of taste has evolved but I’m still drawn to whatever’s original, progressive, out of the box, rebellious even. it just has to be exquisitely made. and, on my eyes: beautiful.

if my eyes were desensitised, I wouldn’t be going often to modern or contemporary art exhibitions which are my favourites, I wouldn’t be watching any new series or films, I wouldn’t be listening to new music and so on and so forth. this desensitisation wouldn’t apply just in fashion if that was the case.

I still continue to be goodly impressed by whatever I find good either it is right now or in 100 years, I’m pretty sure.

forgive me, desensitized sounds a bit crass..
no disrespect intended

I think that as we are familiar with his design codes nicolas has to take his audience a new journey whilst remaining familiar..
it’s never the same as when a new designer burst onto the scene with a new vocabulary.. can you think of many designers that surprise you constantly after 30 years of output?

 

[LadyJunon]

do you think the power is lost because your eyes are desensitized with age and experience? If you were a 16/17 year old looking at fashion runway images for the first time maybe these collections would have more power….

I think about this a lot.

I think this is partly the case but as a rule of thumb, most designers do peak and plateau. Very few are able to sustain their creativity and urgency as they age.

no.
I wasn’t 16/ 17 either when I first saw Nicola’s designs for Balenciaga.

my sense of taste has evolved but I’m still drawn to whatever’s original, progressive, out of the box, rebellious even. it just has to be exquisitely made. and, on my eyes: beautiful.

if my eyes were desensitised, I wouldn’t be going often to modern or contemporary art exhibitions which are my favourites, I wouldn’t be watching any new series or films, I wouldn’t be listening to new music and so on and so forth. this desensitisation wouldn’t apply just in fashion if that was the case.

I still continue to be goodly impressed by whatever I find good either it is right now or in 100 years, I’m pretty sure.

For me, Balenciaga was the first fashion house that I consciously followed from season to season. The first show of theirs I watched was SS'13. I was 10 at the time and saw their clothes in a magazine advert and it was like a religious experience for me. My nine year-old self was absolutely unaware that clothes could even look like that. So, out of curiosity, I looked up the name and eventually found myself on their website watching their all of the shows they had.

At that age, I wasn't really a fan of fashion, but I was a hardcore fan of Balenciaga. It was all beautiful. I wanted to be able to create such exquisite work and I still naively hope I will one day.

I can still remember my mini heartbreak the following month, when Ghesquière left and Alexander Wang took over. I also remember crying in frustration when they wiped his collections of the website (I was a crybaby and I didn't know about Style.com yet). I continue to follow fashion, but none of the other designers hit me quite like Ghesquière (this is post-Galliano/McQueen).

The following year, I found out Ghesquière was coming to Louis Vuitton and the fashion "void" was filled again. At first, I found myself frustrated that his Louis Vuitton didn't have the same punch as his Balenciaga, until his Cruise show in Rio hit me with the same feeling his SS'13 collection did.

While Ghesquière is no longer on his "winning streak", there are definitely times when he hits right on the target and his collections consistently sit above the average execution level of most of Paris and Milan (and all of London and New York). His Balenciaga, however, continues to impress me too this day. That said, I desperately need videos to his earlier shows.

 

[LadyJunon]

forgive me.… no


forgive me, desensitized sounds a bit crass..
no disrespect intended

I think that as we are familiar with his design codes nicolas has to take his audience a new journey whilst remaining familiar..
it’s never the same as when a new designer burst onto the scene with a new vocabulary.. can you think of many designers that surprise you constantly after 30 years of output?

Other than Lagerfeld? Perhaps possibly Ghesquière.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

For me, Balenciaga was the first fashion house that I consciously followed from season to season. The first show of theirs I watched was SS'13. I was 10 at the time and saw their clothes in a magazine advert and it was like a religious experience for me. My nine year-old self was absolutely unaware that clothes could even look like that. So, out of curiosity, I looked up the name and eventually found myself on their website watching their all of the shows they had.

At that age, I wasn't really a fan of fashion, but I was a hardcore fan of Balenciaga. It was all beautiful. I wanted to be able to create such exquisite work and I still naively hope I will one day.

I can still remember my mini heartbreak the following month, when Ghesquière left and Alexander Wang took over. I also remember crying in frustration when they wiped his collections of the website (I was a crybaby and I didn't know about Style.com yet). I continue to follow fashion, but none of the other designers hit me quite like Ghesquière (this is post-Galliano/McQueen).

The following year, I found out Ghesquière was coming to Louis Vuitton and the fashion "void" was filled again. At first, I found myself frustrated that his Louis Vuitton didn't have the same punch as his Balenciaga, until his Cruise show in Rio hit me with the same feeling his SS'13 collection did.

While Ghesquière is no longer on his "winning streak", there are definitely times when he hits right on the target and his collections consistently sit above the average execution level of most of Paris and Milan (and all of London and New York). His Balenciaga, however, continues to impress me too this day. That said, I desperately need videos to his earlier shows.

For me, he lost his mojo even before he went to LV.

In fact, I'm not all that crazy about his collections after 2007 (when Bouchra Jarrar left).

I thought it was Natasha Ramsey who I didn't like but I liked her Chloe far more than what she was doing at LV.

Ghesquiere may have lost the plot and I also think it's a different brief at LV (it's not really about the clothes).

But I think we are ALL in agreement that he's missing the magic from those early-mid 2000s collections and that he has for some time.

 

[LadyJunon]

For me, he lost his mojo even before he went to LV.

In fact, I'm not all that crazy about his collections after 2007 (when Bouchra Jarrar left).

I thought it was Natasha Ramsey who I didn't like but I liked her Chloe far more than what she was doing at LV.

Ghesquiere may have lost the plot and I also think it's a different brief at LV (it's not really about the clothes).

But I think we are ALL in agreement that he's missing the magic from those early-mid 2000s collections and that he has for some time.

I agree. His apx was definitely 2002-08.

 

[Kennnnn]

Absolutely agree. When he started showing at the Crillon in the late 2000s, the collections weren't as interesting as before, and became more repetitive.

 

[Nimsay]

Nics tenure at Balenciaga was mostly mid with some very high highs.

i agree with that person above. This current LV has really wide appeal. There is something here for someone from ages 20-77. The only people wearing NG Balenciaga were fashion freaks. You dont have to be a fashion freak for his LV. It is an acquired taste which is very French.

 

[Lola701]

I think about this a lot.

I think this is partly the case but as a rule of thumb, most designers do peak and plateau. Very few are able to sustain their creativity and urgency as they age.

This!
But I also think about the fact that beyond the idea of sustaining creativity and urgency, there’s also a shift in creativity and mindset in designers that is not necessarily connected with the audience.

I feel like it’s always hard to admit that a designer has changed and that his work will be different because his life is different and the circumstances are different.

For me like for a lot of people, Balenciaga was his peak.
But not necessarily because of the collections but because it was a whole universe.
The brand Balenciaga was the ultimate representation of Nicolas’s vision. From the architecture of the boutiques to the choice of accessories, campaigns and marketing it was his réalisation. But I also think Nicolas was a very different designer back then.

His vision of women, while very inviting for me then, was maybe less diverse than today. For me the Balenciaga woman was a glamazon. I could have used the word sexy to describe his work. The body used to be very present in his work at Balenciaga and now at Vuitton, on the runway, the body is more used as a canvas.

In a way, it’s interesting to see him experiment at 50 because at Balenciaga, he dealt with a lot of restrictions. Those restrictions worked on his favor.

Weirdly his work of Vuitton is more about the clothes. His work at Balenciaga was more about an idea of a woman.
Contrary to a lot of people, I love his clothes post 2008 more. I have more stuff from the capsules and pre-season pre-2008 and more runway pieces post 2008. His clothes post 2008 were rounder and cut with more generosity.
But from a pure Fashion POV, maybe the appreciation is different.
Nevertheless it’s an evolution and I see his career as it is.

 

[Malaya]

It's hardly an insult on Ghesquiere's end when people say that he's lost his magic after juxtaposing his stint at Balenciaga versus what he's currently doing at LV. Sure, he's past his peak. But even then, he's still one of the very VERY few designers out there who still chuck out compelling collections.

I've loved his take on Vuitton since day 1 and he's unapologetic about doing more open-ended propositions. For better or for worse, it seems to be working for him??? Yeah he's had a lot of misses but even then, it's like a scavenger hunt when you dissect those misses and you find gems here and there. Probably not his best since he's done a lot of great stuff, but I wanna see him put out another showstopping collection a la S/S '17.