By SUZY MENKES
Published: March 10, 2010
PARIS — Arcs of water rose from a fountain and fell in curtains of spray at the Louis Vuitton show Wednesday, the closing day of the four-week, four-city international women’s shows for autumn 2010.
The Vuitton setting, in the courtyard of one of Paris’s monumental buildings, was a neat metaphor for the fountain of creativity that has come from the best of the designers here. It was also evident at this show — at least in the exceptional parade of inventive bags, one for each outfit.
Set against the retro, 1950s clothes with full skirts and bosoms to the fore, the designer Marc Jacobs put Vuitton in perspective. This is a leather house, hence the skirts and coats of the finest, strokeable skins, part of the luxurious quality and craftsmanship that emanated from the entire collection.
In his program notes, Mr. Jacobs wrote about the “Speedy,” the bag Vuitton invented in 1930 for the new era of fast travel. Its form was elongated, decorated and reinterpreted. Yet, while other designers in this long season have been harnessing streamlining to fashion, this collection of clothes was unashamedly retro.
As Hollywood post-World War II movie music filled the transparent tent, the models in their Judy Garland shoes, flat bow at the front and thick sparkly heels, walked around the fountain. There were leather coats, tweed suits and floral skirts. Since the show was titled “And God Created Woman,” Brigitte Bardot was surely the inspiration for pinstriped bustiers, crafted for maximum uplift. But the only pieces that really stood out as current fashion were the knitted tunic-dresses that would look just as good with a pair of slim pants as over the full skirts.
If the clothes were palatable, the bags were mouth-watering. The inventive ideas included a streak of silvered Monogram pattern; a brown bag shown with a bronzed coat; tufts of silver fox; metallic monograms; and a purple bag against a purple plaid.
Mr. Jacobs took a strong step backward in this collection, away from the merry, pile-it-on accessories on young models with supershort skirts. The mood was defiantly womanly, if too retro for forward-thinking females. The designer himself had abandoned his kilt skirt for a smart suit decorated with his recently received Légion d’honneur.
In the usual high-profile front row, Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, sat beside the Russian model Natalia Vodianova, while Yves Carcelle, Vuitton’s chief executive, was between the Chinese movie star Fan Bingbing and the Indian entrepreneur Lara Dutta. You don’t get much more global than that.