Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2018

[marcBarna]

vogue.com

 

[marcBarna]

PARIS, FEBRUARY 2, 2018
by SARAH MOWER

At Louis Vuitton, there are the mega-explosively directional runway shows in Paris, the destination-travel extravaganzas laid on for Resort, and then there’s the in-between season, Pre-Fall. Presented without much ado on appointment at LVMH HQ, this is where subtle filtrations from the last show are exhibited alongside continuity products, the nearest this storied brand gets to basics.
Nicolas Ghesquière fans with an eye for his merging of the worlds of sport with historical costume will pick up on the most salient echoes of the last season: the knitted sweaters with billowy silk poet sleeves and the “Curve” trainers. The last—now developed with integral socks that hit ankle-length—were launched on the Spring runway; surely a Louis Vuitton bid for the marathon run which is the “ugly” sneaker inter-brand competition du jour.

vogue.com

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Perfect. I love the dresses, the shoes (even the "ugly" one, so much better than what Balenciaga is doing) and the gloves (a perfect touch IMO).
It's chic, elegant and screams luxury. Congratulations NG and team!

Not sure about this bags, I really wish they give up of this overstyled LV logo, its so tacky.

 

[Nocturnal]

Weak. Feels very uninspired. I just don't understand Nicolas at Louis Vuitton. No one is buying clothing so why he can't have fun like MJ? Every show is so irrelevant and collections look too similar.

 

[Lola701]

A very good collection for Prefall.
I like everything so far maybe with the exception of the denim.
It's very consistent and i think some of the tricky ideas of the runway translate quite well in a more commercial way.

Nicolas is sometimes slept-on as a colorist but i like his palette of "ugly" mix. It's more daring than Prada sometimes.

The shoes have a down to earth feel that i like.
A good one.
Last prefall was also good.

Weak. Feels very uninspired. I just don't understand Nicolas at Louis Vuitton. No one is buying clothing so why he can't have fun like MJ? Every show is so irrelevant and collections look too similar.

Actually, the clothes are selling.
MJ managed to be very bold with his runway ideas because the clothes were produced in very limited quantities but he had a very wealthy clientele.
Nicolas has a more fashion-forward clientele. They even have some permanent silhouettes and pieces that were totally inexistent during Marc's era.

One thing about Nicolas is that his clothes and bags are selling. La petite Malle is still a big hit and the bags in leather are selling well. They are doing so well that Bernard Arnault felt the need to mention that to his shareholders last week when he presented LVMH's results.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Just like all the previous collections from NG at LV (well, except his last spring summer MEH.

 

[Nocturnal]

A very good collection for Prefall.
I like everything so far maybe with the exception of the denim.
It's very consistent and i think some of the tricky ideas of the runway translate quite well in a more commercial way.

Nicolas is sometimes slept-on as a colorist but i like his palette of "ugly" mix. It's more daring than Prada sometimes.

The shoes have a down to earth feel that i like.
A good one.
Last prefall was also good.



Actually, the clothes are selling.
MJ managed to be very bold with his runway ideas because the clothes were produced in very limited quantities but he had a very wealthy clientele.
Nicolas has a more fashion-forward clientele. They even have some permanent silhouettes and pieces that were totally inexistent during Marc's era.

One thing about Nicolas is that his clothes and bags are selling. La petite Malle is still a big hit and the bags in leather are selling well. They are doing so well that Bernard Arnault felt the need to mention that to his shareholders last week when he presented LVMH's results.

I mean there is always someone who will buy clothing but most of the income comes from Bags and accessories.
LV has giant budget so Nicolas could be way more creative for me. He was much better at Balenciaga.
Every season he explored something new. Now this brand is slowly turning into luxury Zara.
Produce as fast as u can and as much as u can.​

 

[Plax]

I mean there is always someone who will buy clothing but most of the income comes from Bags and accessories.
LV has giant budget so Nicolas could be way more creative for me. He was much better at Balenciaga.
Every season he explored something new. Now this brand is slowly turning into luxury Zara.
Produce as fast as u can and as much as u can.​

I think the purpose of appointing him to Louis Vuitton was increasing the clothing portion. In Marc Jacobs Era, the dependence to Bags and Accessories was too high. That's why he said he want to make Louis Vuitton as a brand what women really want to wear. I think he's doing well in this view. It's not like Balenciaga, but the clothes of his Louis Vuitton are wearable, really charming and not that pretentious. Actually, the sales of clothes has increased really much.

 

[FadeToBlack]

I wouldn't get mixed up on the accessories front though, as much as Marc was and Nicolas is the creative director, the accessories are designed by Darren Spaziani.

 

[Lola701]

^^
Yes, the bags are designed by Darren Spaziani and the shoes by Fabrizio Viti but they are still following the vision of Nicolas. This is not their personal project and their talent is indeed to be versatile enough to go from such extreme.

Fabrizio's work under Marc was much more precious than it is under Nicolas who has a much more urban aesthetic.

I think the purpose of appointing him to Louis Vuitton was increasing the clothing portion. In Marc Jacobs Era, the dependence to Bags and Accessories was too high. That's why he said he want to make Louis Vuitton as a brand what women really want to wear. I think he's doing well in this view. It's not like Balenciaga, but the clothes of his Louis Vuitton are wearable, really charming and not that pretentious. Actually, the sales of clothes has increased really much.

Exactly. This is his real value to Vuitton.
I know maybe for some of us who can't buy Vuitton RTW it seems a bit weird but he is there for a reason. He was chosen for a reason and he is doing exactly what he was hired for in the most honest way he can deliver it.

It's not about selling clothes, it's also about having a proper dedication and new focus for RTW. Of course the bags have to sell and luckily it is selling but organizing shows abroad, having a much more importance on the redcarpet...etc.
Marc wasn't even involved in the pre-collections.

I know it can be more of what it is but, we are in a very commercialized era of fashion and it's only fair that the big brands who are at the core of it does that. Gucci, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent...It's all commerce. Even CDG is at it most commercial era...This is the reality. Sadly.

 

[marcBarna]